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Old metal bandsaw opinion needed

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  • #16
    I have one, an Atlas model 4353. great little device.

    Mine flips readily up to vertical mode, although the table is very small compared to a fixed vertical unit.

    The hydraulic feed alone beats the stupid spring deal on (most of?) the imports.

    keep it. Just my arrogant opinion, of course.

    BTW, the one I have is probably the size just below yours. I don't have the bolt on the end of the base casting. And it is on an OEM strap iron rollaround stand.

    [This message has been edited by J Tiers (edited 10-21-2004).]
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

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    • #17
      I also have just obtained the same Sears Bandsaw 101.22922 and have a question about the feed cylinder. Mine was filled with a very thick oil and would not drop down completely, even when screwing the knob out completly. Also when it was raised some oil leaked out of the shaft seal. Might I get a copy of the manual also and what size blade does it like. I have stock blade material and a welder so I cut one to fit but did not measure it yet. Does the cylinder hold oil and if so what type? Thanks Don

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      • #18
        JT, the saw in the photo doesn't flip up to verticle unless you disconnect the hydraulic feed cylinder and even then there is no table. The small clamp base is bolted to the cast bed. At least that is how mine is made. Maybe you can post a photo of your saw in the verticle. TIA

        It would be my opinion that if you make up the 60" blades for it that you not exceed 0.035" thick stock.

        The hydraulic feed cylinder uses SAE 10.

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        • #19
          Hi Steve. Thanks for the reply. The oil must have been 90wt. I diluted it with a bit of WD-40 and it looks like it is starting to work. How full should it be? My unit matches the picture on top. (Right down to the dirt and chips.) I tried it on a 1 inch piece of aluminum and it cut true and square. I have two of the imports and am about to junk them. Cannot get them to cut true. Also have a couple of power hacksaws that use regular blades. Been using them until I got this. BTW Sears tells me that the manual for this is unavailable. Would love to get a copy of one. Thanks again Don

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          • #20
            Save the saw!
            Save the saw!
            Save the saw!

            As for getting parts from Sears, if it is new enough be in their computers from the start, then maybe. If Sears has to actually RTFB then, never.

            The only thing that keeps me from saving from "old family tools" is hopelessly broken castings; but then parts are parts.

            ------------------
            Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."
            Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

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            • #21
              Bump on an old thread here.
              I have the same saw, and though I like the classic appeal, I cant get the durn band to stay on through a thicker cut, say in a piece of 3" pipe it will fling the band off. I do have a good,new bi-metal blade on it, I don't think that's the problem
              The adjustable wheel bearing was sloppy, so I machined a 1/4" thick big washer that I screwed to the center, and re-fit a new bearing into, the drive wheel seems good. The rubber bands on the wheels are ok, glued them on for good measure. I just finished making new rollers for the guides, and adjusted them so they neither pull in, nor push out. Everything tracks fine when out of the cut.
              Soooo, it works much better, cuts ok on small stock, but after (another) day or two of futzing with it, I'm thinking about a HF saw, or jet.
              I havnt gotten the action of the oil piston down, could be it's feeding too fast.
              Any thoughts?
              Thanks, Russell

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              • #22
                blade jump

                feeding too fast will make the cut wobble, faster could make it bind, or slide off the wheel.

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                • #23
                  old metal bandsaw option

                  I have both the Covel- Craftsman power hacksaw, bought cheap because of a broken gear which I fixed and it runs great but very slow. You can buy bimetal hacksaw blades at Menards for a buck a piece. I found one foot pieces, one inch high of bandsaw blades work very well.
                  I also have a Craftsman horizontal band saw with a working hydraulic cylinder and a blade tension adjustment that worked well but requires a .020" thick blade because of the small wheels. Needs a wheel bearing replacement.
                  So I got a chance at a yard sale to buy a HF lookealite 4X6 horizontal bandsaw for $ 50. After ruining 2 blades because of that damned spring downfeed I designed and built a high quality downfeed cylinder that works extremly well and no more broken baldes. I have built and sold several on ebay and have a number of emails for a price and info.
                  I have also designed an acurate low cost blade tension device I use.
                  Also modified the vice to hold rounds from slipping up.
                  Also an inexpensive defice to keep blades from running off the wheels.
                  All these changes have turned a pig into a silk purse.
                  Walt
                  toolman

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by bpsbtoolman
                    I have both the Covel- Craftsman power hacksaw, bought cheap because of a broken gear which I fixed and it runs great but very slow. You can buy bimetal hacksaw blades at Menards for a buck a piece. I found one foot pieces, one inch high of bandsaw blades work very well.
                    I also have a Craftsman horizontal band saw with a working hydraulic cylinder and a blade tension adjustment that worked well but requires a .020" thick blade because of the small wheels. Needs a wheel bearing replacement.
                    So I got a chance at a yard sale to buy a HF lookealite 4X6 horizontal bandsaw for $ 50. After ruining 2 blades because of that damned spring downfeed I designed and built a high quality downfeed cylinder that works extremly well and no more broken baldes. I have built and sold several on ebay and have a number of emails for a price and info.
                    I have also designed an acurate low cost blade tension device I use.
                    Also modified the vice to hold rounds from slipping up.
                    Also an inexpensive defice to keep blades from running off the wheels.
                    All these changes have turned a pig into a silk purse.
                    Walt

                    Got pictures?

                    TMT

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