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Old metal bandsaw opinion needed

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by bpsbtoolman
    I have both the Covel- Craftsman power hacksaw, bought cheap because of a broken gear which I fixed and it runs great but very slow. You can buy bimetal hacksaw blades at Menards for a buck a piece. I found one foot pieces, one inch high of bandsaw blades work very well.
    I also have a Craftsman horizontal band saw with a working hydraulic cylinder and a blade tension adjustment that worked well but requires a .020" thick blade because of the small wheels. Needs a wheel bearing replacement.
    So I got a chance at a yard sale to buy a HF lookealite 4X6 horizontal bandsaw for $ 50. After ruining 2 blades because of that damned spring downfeed I designed and built a high quality downfeed cylinder that works extremly well and no more broken baldes. I have built and sold several on ebay and have a number of emails for a price and info.
    I have also designed an acurate low cost blade tension device I use.
    Also modified the vice to hold rounds from slipping up.
    Also an inexpensive defice to keep blades from running off the wheels.
    All these changes have turned a pig into a silk purse.
    Walt

    Got pictures?

    TMT

    Leave a comment:


  • bpsbtoolman
    replied
    old metal bandsaw option

    I have both the Covel- Craftsman power hacksaw, bought cheap because of a broken gear which I fixed and it runs great but very slow. You can buy bimetal hacksaw blades at Menards for a buck a piece. I found one foot pieces, one inch high of bandsaw blades work very well.
    I also have a Craftsman horizontal band saw with a working hydraulic cylinder and a blade tension adjustment that worked well but requires a .020" thick blade because of the small wheels. Needs a wheel bearing replacement.
    So I got a chance at a yard sale to buy a HF lookealite 4X6 horizontal bandsaw for $ 50. After ruining 2 blades because of that damned spring downfeed I designed and built a high quality downfeed cylinder that works extremly well and no more broken baldes. I have built and sold several on ebay and have a number of emails for a price and info.
    I have also designed an acurate low cost blade tension device I use.
    Also modified the vice to hold rounds from slipping up.
    Also an inexpensive defice to keep blades from running off the wheels.
    All these changes have turned a pig into a silk purse.
    Walt

    Leave a comment:


  • tooldog454
    replied
    blade jump

    feeding too fast will make the cut wobble, faster could make it bind, or slide off the wheel.

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  • poleframer
    replied
    Bump on an old thread here.
    I have the same saw, and though I like the classic appeal, I cant get the durn band to stay on through a thicker cut, say in a piece of 3" pipe it will fling the band off. I do have a good,new bi-metal blade on it, I don't think that's the problem
    The adjustable wheel bearing was sloppy, so I machined a 1/4" thick big washer that I screwed to the center, and re-fit a new bearing into, the drive wheel seems good. The rubber bands on the wheels are ok, glued them on for good measure. I just finished making new rollers for the guides, and adjusted them so they neither pull in, nor push out. Everything tracks fine when out of the cut.
    Soooo, it works much better, cuts ok on small stock, but after (another) day or two of futzing with it, I'm thinking about a HF saw, or jet.
    I havnt gotten the action of the oil piston down, could be it's feeding too fast.
    Any thoughts?
    Thanks, Russell

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  • TECHSHOP
    replied
    Save the saw!
    Save the saw!
    Save the saw!

    As for getting parts from Sears, if it is new enough be in their computers from the start, then maybe. If Sears has to actually RTFB then, never.

    The only thing that keeps me from saving from "old family tools" is hopelessly broken castings; but then parts are parts.

    ------------------
    Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

    Leave a comment:


  • Wiserword
    replied
    Hi Steve. Thanks for the reply. The oil must have been 90wt. I diluted it with a bit of WD-40 and it looks like it is starting to work. How full should it be? My unit matches the picture on top. (Right down to the dirt and chips.) I tried it on a 1 inch piece of aluminum and it cut true and square. I have two of the imports and am about to junk them. Cannot get them to cut true. Also have a couple of power hacksaws that use regular blades. Been using them until I got this. BTW Sears tells me that the manual for this is unavailable. Would love to get a copy of one. Thanks again Don

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  • Steve Stube
    replied
    JT, the saw in the photo doesn't flip up to verticle unless you disconnect the hydraulic feed cylinder and even then there is no table. The small clamp base is bolted to the cast bed. At least that is how mine is made. Maybe you can post a photo of your saw in the verticle. TIA

    It would be my opinion that if you make up the 60" blades for it that you not exceed 0.035" thick stock.

    The hydraulic feed cylinder uses SAE 10.

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  • Wiserword
    replied
    I also have just obtained the same Sears Bandsaw 101.22922 and have a question about the feed cylinder. Mine was filled with a very thick oil and would not drop down completely, even when screwing the knob out completly. Also when it was raised some oil leaked out of the shaft seal. Might I get a copy of the manual also and what size blade does it like. I have stock blade material and a welder so I cut one to fit but did not measure it yet. Does the cylinder hold oil and if so what type? Thanks Don

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    I have one, an Atlas model 4353. great little device.

    Mine flips readily up to vertical mode, although the table is very small compared to a fixed vertical unit.

    The hydraulic feed alone beats the stupid spring deal on (most of?) the imports.

    keep it. Just my arrogant opinion, of course.

    BTW, the one I have is probably the size just below yours. I don't have the bolt on the end of the base casting. And it is on an OEM strap iron rollaround stand.

    [This message has been edited by J Tiers (edited 10-21-2004).]

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  • nheng
    replied
    Now I can't wait to move it in. You guys are getting me all excited about that first cut

    Thanks for all the replies and manual offer, I believe that it has very low mileage on it so shouldn't need any parts for a while.

    Leave a comment:


  • captainkirk
    replied
    I have one just like it and it's a great little saw much better than the newer imports. Cuts great and strait, it won't cut the grass or keep you warm on a cold night but other than thatyou'll love it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Al Messer
    replied
    These Craftsman saws were made, at that time, by Emerson Electric Company, Paris, Tennessee. The motor carrier for whom I worked hauled many, many loads of Cast Iron castings to the plant and many truck loads of finished tools for distribution. I wish I had bought one back then through the factory, but, alas, hindsight is clearer than foresight! If you don't want it, I'll take it off your hands!! LOL!

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob-O
    replied
    Den,
    I had one of those years ago before I got an MSC 4 x 6 bandsaw. I rebuilt the thing with new bushings and shafts, but traded it when I got the 4 X 6 bandsaw. I still have the original manual for it. The model is 101.22922 and is called a Craftsman Commercial. If you get the saw and need the manual, you're welcome to it. Just e-mail me.
    Bob

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  • rollin45
    replied
    If you can get the mod# go to Sears.com and then parts,, it is surprising what they still have on hand. Most machines and tools also have a parts blow-up picture, though its not the greatest quality.

    For something 30 years old, it will be a crap shoot, but worth the few minutes it will take to check it out.
    rollin'

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  • zl1byz
    replied
    Yep going by some of the other posts on the bb recently. If it's done 30 years it's worth a bit of time and keep it out of the land fill. Also one less sale for the junk importers, maybe they will eventually get the message.

    John.

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