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  • #16
    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by IOWOLF:
    I have found that amum. tig welding takes alot of filler rod.
    Those practice welds cost a bunch.
    </font>

    Yeah. I think I overspent my lab fee four weeks ago.;-) I've gone through enough alum. to build a small rowboat. If I can get the camera away from my wife I'll try and post some pictures.

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    • #17
      <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by IOWOLF:
      I have found that amum. tig welding takes alot of filler rod.
      Those practice welds cost a bunch.
      </font>
      Yup,I'll second that.Round here we get 50lb rolls of large diameter aluminum mig wire,like .093" for scrap price.I used that for years around the house.It was convienent to hang to roll over the vice and just reel it off as the work progressed.Neat thing was you never ran out of filler rod on a weld

      I miss aluminum tig,all I do now is wire feed,boring crap.

      Nice welds there Russ,I'll have to show off some stainless next job I get.

      I just need one more tool,just one!

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      • #18
        I had a tank leak like a seive in one spot that pressure checked at 6 psi. customer brought it back pissed, I rechecked at 6 psi and it checked fine. gave it 8psi and it bubbled like mad. Maybe my gage was off tho.
        Rob

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        • #19

          I try do use my TIG machine 5-10 hours a week.. I just got my 52" 16ga shear tonight so I'll finally able to cut up aluminum from sheets.

          I try and keep what I learned in class fresh.. Progress is so slow and it's hard to tell if you're getting any better unless you save your beads and go back and look at the previous week's beads.. Also, going from one joint type to another is difficult for me initially until I get the right feel and rythum.. I'm starting to listen a lot more and sometimes I can tell just by the sound that it's going to be a real nice joint.

          I signed up for the TIG class again next fall so I can continue where I left off.. Our TIG class is all individualized based on where everyone is.. It's a TIG/O-A/MIG/Stick/class and you choose the direction you want to go so everyone is doing something different..

          Here is one of my better lap joints that I did back when I was in class:



          -Adrian

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          • #20
            torker that is some mighty fine looking work.And this praise don't come lightly!I've got some good buddies who spend their working hours sittin at Tig tables doin highend work.My machining mentor is an old school M/C Top Fueler from H*LL..........makes me want to go to the shop and weld sumthin.

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            • #21
              BWS...Thanks! Could be a little better but hey...I cut the cap off with the lathe tonite anyway...lol! I was lucky when I first started tigging. Had a couple of BC's best tiggers for instructors. They did a lot of the Titanium at the pulp mills. Pretty high standards in these mills....it HAS to all be walked...no freehand allowed. Pretty boring on a 24" SS pipe though....tig in and out!
              Weird...I hardly ever get to weld SS in my shop. Pretty pricey for most people.
              Sure is nice to tig though...flows a lot smoother than carbon.
              Standard PWP10 Pulpmill test is 6G (45* 3 ft off the floor)8" pipe...have to use right AND left hands to run it. Took me a long time to get that...hell I can't even feed myself with my left hand
              I have tools I don't even know I own...

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              • #22
                I will fly in a plane welded by "torker".

                thats class A-1 work, when they pay the bill they know
                they had a pro on the job.

                I weld very good but, love to flame and plasma cut, I can unweld most anything.

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                • #23
                  TM...unwelding can be cool also. I still get a kick out whacking something with a 1/2" carbon rod @ 600amps and 60+ pounds of air(air arc). The Orange County "Spark Guys" look pale in comparison!
                  I have tools I don't even know I own...

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                  • #24

                    I made another Alum block tonight, but it didn't turn out much better than the two I already made. I think I'm going to have a lot of these non-perfect blocks before I finally make my golden aluminum block that I'll epoxy onto the fridge.

                    -Adrian

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                    • #25
                      3 ph...those little blocks are real heatsinks...they get hot as hell, hard to handle. Once you get them going...back the heat off a bunch and give yurself time to weld them properley.
                      Or weld one edge, then leave to cool before going further.
                      Orrrr, get a welder with pulse!
                      Russ
                      I have tools I don't even know I own...

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                      • #26
                        <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by tattoomike68:
                        I will fly in a plane welded by "torker".

                        thats class A-1 work, when they pay the bill they know
                        they had a pro on the job.

                        I weld very good but, love to flame and plasma cut, I can unweld most anything.

                        </font>
                        I wouldn't since they're mostly rivited and glued together.

                        I'd drive any car he built though.

                        T. are you using a figure eight motion? And are you using filler? It just looks sort of flat.

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                        • #27
                          Russ,

                          Nice looking weld! I appreciate what you're saying about seeing the weld, that really applies as the amps go below 50.

                          Even with new glasses the puddle was not clear. I bought a spare OptiVisor lens plate and taped it inside the hood, right against the inside cover. Ya gotta get the right one for you as the higher power lenses have shallow depth of focus.

                          Helps a bunch when you're running 5 amps & an .040 tungsten.

                          ------------------
                          Barry Milton
                          Barry Milton

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                          • #28
                            I made this alum box today.. I cut the .063" 6061 T4 pieces on my shear. I TIG welded all joints and then machined them down on my bridgeport. I then sanded down all of the maching marks on a disk/vertical sander. I then hand sanded out the disk sander marks, and then pollished it with a buffing wheel..

                            When I started, there were no visible leaks, but as I started taking more and more material off, one little hole opened up.. I'm glad it did, because otherwise it looks like a solid piece of aluminum







                            -Adrian

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                            • #29
                              Rustbolt....yup, I use somewhat of an adulteration of a figure 8. The cap is a "Two Rod" cap....two 1/16" rods used as filler. It is flat looking but does have a slight crown to it...like it's supposed to.
                              You get the flatness by keeping the tungsten almost in the puddle throughout the whole motion.
                              Adrian....Lookin good!
                              Barry....5 amps with .040...VERY hard to see for sure. You know what I do now that helps a bit...I use two very bright halogen lights shining right on the weld....it does help to see where you are going anyway.
                              Want a tough tig job? I've been busting my butt all weekend to get ready for a job on a Hydro dam. Heavy wall SS tube has to be welded into a big gate...over the water, in the wind, half the job is all overhead, tig in and stick out. They are going to pay dearly! It's going to be a nasty job. Oh boy...the things ya do so you can buy more toys!!
                              Russ
                              I have tools I don't even know I own...

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