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TAPER ATTACHMENT

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  • TAPER ATTACHMENT

    I'm planning on putting a taper attachment on my lathe, length of taper would be 30-31". Was thing of using twin pillow block linear bearings and 3/4" or 1" shafts for the bar... would this be ok?

    I'll just be cutting wood for this...
    \"yes it can be done\"

  • #2
    I think 1" probably will be okay. Your follow rest will also have to be cross slide mounted as opposed to carriage mounted to follow the taper, right. Do you already have it mounted that way? I'm assuming on a slender cue you do use a follow rest.

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    • #3
      ya gotta be makin cues, right????...lol

      Comment


      • #4
        Steve - Yeah it will be cross slide mounted with a router mounted on the compound slide. Thought of a dovetail at first but I think linear bearing and shafting would make it simple and easier. Thanks!

        Lou - LOL... I hope my message didn't give it away... or even my name... I see you at azbilliards forums too... nice bumping into you here... do you make 'em too?
        \"yes it can be done\"

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        • #5
          I'm sure a 1" shaft will be fine for turning cues. If you are going to do any heavier work, you may want to consider something with less flex. I have seen designs that use flat ground stock with the long direction horizontal. This will give greater rigidity for a heavy cut in steel.

          Paul A.
          Paul A.

          Make it fit.
          You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

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          • #6
            just been doing some repairs so far.

            gotta get some equiptment.

            taper attach ??
            i'm thinking of large ball bearing mounted to the rear of the cross slide, that would follow a bar of somekind mounted to the back of the lathe, then you would just keep the bearing tight to the bar as you run the carriage down the ways ???

            follow rest ??
            i'm just thinking of like an end grinder/die grinder mounted on the tool post & router bit. i "think" at a slow lathe speed & light cuts, there should be no whip.

            i got a "quick" look at another guys set-up, looked like an 4" electric angle grinder or maybe it was a biscuit joint machine. he had a circular blade in it like as is used in the biscuit machines.


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            • #7
              <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by LOU'S CUE'S:
              just been doing some repairs so far.

              gotta get some equiptment.

              taper attach ??
              i'm thinking of large ball bearing mounted to the rear of the cross slide, that would follow a bar of somekind mounted to the back of the lathe, then you would just keep the bearing tight to the bar as you run the carriage down the ways ???

              follow rest ??
              i'm just thinking of like an end grinder/die grinder mounted on the tool post & router bit. i "think" at a slow lathe speed & light cuts, there should be no whip.

              i got a "quick" look at another guys set-up, looked like an 4" electric angle grinder or maybe it was a biscuit joint machine. he had a circular blade in it like as is used in the biscuit machines.

              </font>
              That large ball bearing would be viable too, but should be spring loaded towards the rail.

              follow rest??
              I got your point... just don't know how it will stay along the piece when tailstock's ste over and the toolpost/carriage goin straight along the ways
              \"yes it can be done\"

              Comment


              • #8
                <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Paul Alciatore:
                I'm sure a 1" shaft will be fine for turning cues. If you are going to do any heavier work, you may want to consider something with less flex. I have seen designs that use flat ground stock with the long direction horizontal. This will give greater rigidity for a heavy cut in steel.

                Paul A.
                </font>
                Thanks Paul... how would I go about it if I use flat ground stock?
                \"yes it can be done\"

                Comment


                • #9
                  the follow rest.....i'm thinking NONE !!!

                  just the grinder/router bit/slow lathe rpm and light cuts.

                  with my idea of the taper rig, you would not have to offset the tailstock.

                  the LARGE bearings i'm thinking of are the ones used for pattern shaping on a woodworking shaper. i think grizzley has them like 1" id and 3 or 4" od.

                  for the bar of the taper rig.i was thinking about 3/4 x 4" or so flat stock, i think i could get a "good enough" straight edge using a 4' level and a file. also the other edge could be machined to do a "pro taper".

                  as i am a woodworker, i dont know much about metal lathes. but....can the cross slide feed screw be disengaged so the slide can move with just the pressure of the taper attachment ??

                  if so could you just start at the small diameter of the shaft..with the bearing cranked into the taper bar and use the longitudinal feed as then the taper bar would be pushing the cross slide out as it feed to the larger diameter ???

                  NOW i got typers cramp !!!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Lou - Yeah the cross slide shoud be disengaged for the taper attachment to work... also if a telescopic taper attachment is used, no need to disengage the slide.

                    I agree with you on the ball bearing... one side for butt tapers and another for shafts... got me thinking there... mmmm...
                    \"yes it can be done\"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      hadjcues, you may be interested in my set up for grinding in the lathe that i employ, this is set up for steel grinding but with it been a woodworking router i use, it may be of interest to you? check it out, the site is sometimes difficult to access but just keep trying it will load, there is also some new stuff on there for endmill relief grinding.

                      bill

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                      • #12
                        sorry its: www.metalworking.piczo.com

                        bill

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                        • #13
                          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by billyboy:
                          sorry its: www.metalworking.piczo.com

                          bill
                          </font>
                          dude can't make it work... wanna see pics though could you just post it here?
                          \"yes it can be done\"

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