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Spraying epoxy paint

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  • Spraying epoxy paint

    I'm in the process of cleaning up my bandsaw, and would like to paint it. I know this is probably overkill for a tool like this, but I kind of regard it as a fun learning experience as well.

    Anyway, I was thinking I would like to try spraying some of the S/W Tile Clad epoxy paint. Aside from probably being overkill, is this a really bad idea? I've seen the topic of machine painting come up several times, and many people appear to be happy with the industrial coating offerings from S/W. I've also read many praises about the POR15 stuff as well. I'm not totally against using any of the other paints, I just thought the Tile Clad stuff sounded like it would take some SEVERE abuse (if applied properly of course)

    I recall one poster who said they had painted a trailer with it (Tile Clad), and according to them, I think a dozer had "peeled out" on it a couple times without actually taking off the paint. I would imagine this would hold up pretty well to having metal scraped along it; at least better than other paints. Any comments on the comparison of Tile Clad vs. POR15 for durability/scratch resistance?

    I was thinking to get a cheap HF HVLP spray gun for the project, since I'm tired of using the rattle can, and I've heard good things about the HF spray gun thus far.

    What kind of thinner would I need to use to thin the paint before applying it? I've read that some epoxy's are pretty nasty -- is a full suit required for this type of paint, or will just a respirator mask be appropriate, or just stand upwind of it?

    Thanks for your help.


  • #2
    I have a painter friend that got epoxy on his arm, now when he is within 30 feet of it he has a extreme allegic reaction to it.

    Mek thinner?, be careful, it can penetrate your skin and poison you. It feels so cold because it evaporates as soon as it hits the air. Lots of bad-boy fumes.



    • #3
      In the uk you can buy temporary chemical masks that are activated charcoal.
      These are sealed up a little bag and you have a few days to use them once opened.
      in the uk they cost about آ£20 each.
      They are just enough for little jobs like yours.
      Having said that ...the real painters will warn you of all sorts of side effects even certain deaf if you spray the it's in your hands.

      The right way to spray the stuff is wear an air-fed mask,fed from an external source that also has carbon filters to remove the crap and you have to wear disposable overalls....
      the paint booth should have a ventilation fan .
      Idealy sucking from below the floor thru a grill on the floor.
      The proper paint booths have all the air scrubbed before it's is dumped into atmosphere.
      Remember people down wind of your extraction fan can also suffer the effects.

      Having said all this when I once used to spray cellulose and despite this being suposedly healthier than two packs and the isocyanurates stuff........
      I sufferd a lot more with cellulose,what with the choking cellulose fumes,plumes of overspray........I dont think any one is more bad than the extraction fan is a must have ...or dont do it.

      all the best.....mark

      [This message has been edited by aboard_epsilon (edited 06-17-2005).]


      • #4

        I'll second what Ibew said. My friend used to work in a place that sprayed urethane and other nasty things, and you've never seen someone so careful with any kind of aerosol paint. He's seen the effects of poisoning, and it's not nice.

        I also once stumbled across a huge book on hazardous materials at work. They talk about "LD50" dosages of lots of chemicals. (LD50 is the Lethal Dose for 50% of the people for a given substance) Paints and thinners figured very prominently in this book. I wish I remembered what the book was called.

        The curse of having precise measuring tools is being able to actually see how imperfect everything is.


        • #5
          I wonder what a local body shop with the proper paint booth set up would want to spray it? Years ago when i mentioned i planned on painting with a two part epoxy paint the reaction from everyone was like i was about to step on a landmine. ended up taking a pass on the idea
          in Toronto Ontario - where are you?


          • #6
            The old Rust Oleum is starting to look pretty good about now

            Good thread, I'd of never thunk!

            [This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 06-17-2005).]
            - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
            Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

            It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.


            • #7
              I have sprayed two part expoxy and probably some of the nastiest stuff on this planet-IMRON. Most definately use a clean source air supply and skin protection. IMRON is still best coating out there, but you don't have to spray it. Build up your coating with your favourite color and then brush on a top coat of clear IMRON (outside). Sand with 400 wet and dry and give it another coat, then polish.


              • #8
                I have been using Polane and PolaneT. There is a specific reducer that is needed them, I am assuming that Tile Clad is the same. The folks at S/W have been very helpful about surface prep and mixing. You will want to ask about which primer to use, a lot of epoxy paint will melt through the standard rattle can primers.

                Definitely get a good comfortable mask. If possible shoot your parts outside (mask still needed).


                • #9
                  Anyone have any experience with this stuff,


                  Check out the water based epoxy they are selling. Good for up to 40% nitro. I'm thinking of using it on a motorcycle.


                  [This message has been edited by topct (edited 06-21-2005).]


                  • #10
                    Thanks for all your replies. I think I will put off painting this until I get a proper respirator. I've seen those Hobby Fresh air respirators, which are pretty expensive ($375-475) and will have to wait a little while to buy one. However, I'll have it the rest of my life most likely.

                    Anyone ever try the Rustoleum epoxies? I called S/W about the Tile Clad epxoy primer, but they couldn't find any listing for a primer. Their "regular" Tile Clad epoxy paint suggested a primer coat underneath it.

                    What application are you using the Polane and PolaneT (what's the difference between the two)? Is it pretty resistant to abrasion (more so than other paints)?



                    • #11
                      Epoxy paints are not as bad as many of these replies suggest. Yes, some people are allergic to epoxy so would need to use a full spray suit and a respirator with an outside air supply. Otherwise a standard resirator with a paint filter works just fine on epoxy.

                      Just about every major paint company makes 2 part epoxy paint for industrial applications. They're all very similar. I just finished painting a Clausing 5914. It took almost exactly 1QT of mixed paint. I used Coronado brand because the local distributor was willing to sell in Qts of each side. Generally they sell only in gallons. Prices runs at $50-75 per gallon for each part. This guy was selling Qts at $25 for each side and you could pick your color off the charts. If the surface your're going to paint is in good shape you don't need a primer. Yes spray it outside if you don't have a spay booth. Use a $29 Northern tool touch up gun at about 35 PSI. If you take care of them they work pretty well. Clean up and thinning is done with epoxy thinner. It's a mix of MEK, lacquer thinner and some other things. S/W will have it.

                      Epoxy is going to be a lot harder than machine enamel but not as hard as a two part urethane. Urethanes have one really nasty thing in them. It's isocyanate. And it's in the activator side. You can get a brushable form of this from marine dealers like West Marine. Brands like Sterling and Awlgrip but the stuff is really pricey. $75-100 per quart for each side. Your best bet is the epoxy. Painting a machine tool is a great project. If you going through the trouble of maintiaining a machine it's a great idea to make it look nice IMHO.


                      • #12
                        I’d forgotten the name, but it was Imron I was thinking of - forgot it’s a polyurethanes, sorry for confusing it with epoxy. I believe it is used as fleet paint on trucks etc - seemed to me to be a good combo of nice finish and durability.

                        As I recall, the reaction a person has or could have to it develops with exposure and (potentially) worsens right up to death. As it seemed like a really crumby idea to find out the hard way if I was more sensitive to it than the next person, I took a pass.

                        in Toronto Ontario - where are you?


                        • #13
                          Wait guys, some people are mixing up epoxy paints with 2K urethanes.

                          Epoxies are NOT that big a deal, they don't contain isocyanates. It's the 2 part Urethanes that will do you in with exposure.
                          I use a Hobby air supplied air respirator to spray the 2K paints, but in a pinch I would spray epoxy with a simple respirator - it ain't that bad.


                          • #14
                            The 2-part epoxies aren't near as bad as the 2-part urethanes. All the urethanes contain isocyanates which are on most sh*t lists. However, if one is allergic to amines/amides which are in the epoxy curing agent that could be a problem. I used a 2-part epoxy on my lathe and applied it with one on those small 2 or 3 in. rollers and it came out faily decent.

                            The epoxy, once thoroughly cured is just about bulletproof and most solvents will not touch it. Epoxies are one of the best coatings resin systems for chemical/solvent resistance.

                            If you spray any paint it's a good idea to use an organic vapor respirator. If using isocyanates I would say it's a necessity.

                            Graymatter has it correct.