Yet another paint question.

[rockrat]

Has anyone tried this stuff?

Polyurethane Enamel


Saw the link on the Yahoo Groups Bridgeport page. The writer claims that it is made for machine tools. The stuff is supposed to be chemical and oil resistant. Any thoughts?

[This message has been edited by rockrat (edited 06-24-2005).]

[David/toledo]

I would say that it is good stuff. If you want I can ask my rep about it Mon?
David

[webbch]

That topic has come up recently in a thread either here or on practical machinist. Run a search for "epoxy paint" or similar and it should turn up some results.

The consenus I gathered from reading the threads was that this Polane Plus stuff is the real **** as far as abrasion resistance and durability -- according to the guys who've used it. I can't vouch for that myself as I haven't tried it. I recently called S/W to ask about it, but the guy on the phone said he had an "older" catalog in front of him that only had PolaneT, which was about $125/gal as I recall. I'm not sure what the difference is between PolaneT and Polane Plus. According to the data sheet, it also looks like they recommend a primer coat, so add that to your budget as well.

I'm not sure, but I think these polyurethane paints contain the dreaded isocyanates that painters will warn you about (that is putting it lightly). For these, they suggest nothing but forced air respirators if you plan on spraying it(none of the filter respirators are sufficient according to what I've gathered thus far) I believe they would probably suggest the same for brush rolling, though I'm not sure on that.

I'm still waiting to paint my bandsaw. Been trying to decide what type of paint to use. Currently have my mind set on an epoxy paint that I will spray. Wanted to find something as durable as possible, but don't have the budget for a fresh-air respirator as of yet ($375-475).

I keep wondering if I shouldn't just break down and use Rustoleum's oil-based Industrial enamels. Those are available in many local hardware stores for about $30/gal , whereas I think S/W or other specialized paint companies are the only ones that carry any kind of epoxy paint not designed for concrete floor use or bathtub repair. POR15 has been recommended as well (~$100/gal IIRC).

Hope this helps get you started. It's been taking me far longer than I expected to choose a paint, mainly due to safety, budget, and application method considerations.

Chad

[jrschwit]

I've recently used some of this to paint a lathe I had just reconditioned. I like it and will use it again. Very tough stuff and easy to use. I'm not a skilled painter but found it no problem to spray. Heed all the cautions about forced air respiration.

SW makes a compatable spray filler to use as an undercoat to fill and smooth castings. Their brand name is Spray-Fil if I remember correctly. Works very well.
Jim

[aboard_epsilon]

I took note on the comments here about epoxy.
and I phoned up about it .
The paint supplier I phoned told me that epoxy finishes are not high-gloss more like a silk finish.
Is this right?
all the best.mark

[rockrat]

David, if you remember, please do ask.

As for everything else, I just don’t like the rustoleum enamel. I tried a bit of it, per all of the directions, on the top of my nc electrical cabinet.

The pant was chipping off and the roof had given me a bit of trouble right over that area. All of that added up to the cabinet starting to rust a it. So I cleaned off the old paint, primer, and color was brushed on.

But the paint just does not seem to be dry. That is to say, I can get a fingernail into it an pull up a bit of the paint.

Also, after re-reading the can, in tiny little print it notes that this paint will not put up to submersion in water. Makes me wonder about what the coolant will do to the paint.

[JPR]

rockrat, I have the Polane paint on the front axle of my one ton truck. Very good stuff. I got brake fluid all over one end. It was several minutes before I got it washed off, however, you can not tell. Don't try that with the standard automotive paint.

I have been using PolaneT for my lathe. What S/W sales rep said, was not to worry about the old paint even if it felt oily, the PolaneT would stick anyway. If you have bare metal, you need the correct primer.

Last note, on the truck axle and brake parts, I used a standard automotive paint gun. On the lathe I have been using a HVLP gun for most parts and a small paint brush for things like spokes on the hand wheels that have cast or forged finish. All three ways have given good results.

[This message has been edited by JPR (edited 06-25-2005).]

[andy_b]

i know a good durable paint that i have used on a lot of projects that get grease and oil on them, as well as anti-freeze and other chemicals. it stands up well and seems pretty chip resistant. i actually used it on the lathe table i built, and i spill and drop all kinds of stuff on it. plus it usually has about 1/8" of oily slime on it. this paint is an enamel and it will almost paint right over grease (and stick to it). it's also pretty cheap (maybe $40 per gallon).

of course it is only available in green, yellow and black. you can get it at your local John Deere dealer.


andy b.

[Forrest Addy]

Polane paint really is nice. It looks good and covers well. It's easy to apply providing you cover all the precaustions including execute a meticulous paint prep.

The problem with machine tools is paint - any kind of paint - near the chip wash is strictly temporary. The constant passage of the chips will wear down the most obdutate paint as pilgrim's bare feet wear down the granite steps to a shrine over the years.

If the pricey paint can be readily touched up fine but how many times are you willing to do that in the life of your machine tools if a spic and span appearance is important to you. Also touch up-prep for the fancy expensive paint has to be as meticulous as the original. I don't believe the people who say you can use Polane paint over indifferent surfaces, grease, and oil. With paint that expensive you HAVE to cover the bases and a good paint prep is only prudent.

Then there is the shelf life of your touch up paint. Any paint is a shelf life item. I haven't heard of any two-part paint that's OK to use after two or more years. And how much does if cost to get a tiny batch of touch up paint mixed ten years from now?

And lastly a good pricy paint systme has to go all ther way to the base metal. You don't want the new paint system to fail because of lack of adhesion or chemical incompatibility with the remnents of the old paint system. Two part fillers, build up and prime, sanding to fair, ect is all time consuming and expensive in materials.

For these reasons I favor cheap paint in the form of industrial coatings in stock colors. When a low cost paint system is done well it still looks good but ir does wear faster than the pricey two part paints. OTH you can clean up and prep the chewed up areas on Friday evening. Paint it after dinner and the paint will be cured by Monday AM. And you're only out $12 a quart for a scratch mix.

And dammit, those pricey two part paints are hazardous. You can't use them with casual regard for painting safety. You have to dress up in a moon suit and have good ventillation.

For the above reasons I wouldn't use $120 a qt paint on any of may machine tools even if it was free.

[webbch]

Anyone ever used Rustoleum's hammered finish paint? I'd be curious to know how it compares to Rustoleum's industrial enamel.

Finally, do you generally paint the coolant tray in a horizontal bandsaw? The reason I ask is that it seems most paints aren't designed for water immersion, so if you'll be using a water-based coolant, I would imagine it would make the paint flake in this area just by being continually immersed. Are there any good sealers that any of you have used to combat this problem?

Thanks for your insight yet again Forrest. I've been on the fence for some time now about type of paint, thinking/hoping that if I got a "super duper" tough paint on my bandsaw, it would never chip off in the future. Your point about future maintenance is well taken (it has been frustrating that the $$$ polyurethanes and epoxies don't seem to be sold by the pint or even quart, only gallon), and I think I'll just use a good industrial enamel. It's a heck of a lot cheaper for the paint, and saves the cost of a forced air respirator. Besides, my compressor is under-rated for the job as it is, no sense using $$$ paint on my first non-rattle-can spray job that probably won't turn out perfect anyway.

This project has made me realize that the respirator is something to put on my wish list for the future.

Chad