Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

I need help making something

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • I need help making something

    I need to make a live center.

    I intend to use some bearings I have (see my other recent post) and make a limited use live center.

    I will be used to hold a cue shaft that is already made. The tip of the live center needs to be concave to hold the tip.

    My idea is this:

    Make the concave tip and slide it in the bearing. I don't know how to make it stay there other than a close fit.

    Then make a "holder" for my bearing. Then the holder will fit into my tailstock with a the proper taper (mt3?)

    Since its only for sanding and touching up cue shafts, it doesn't really need to have close tolerances other than I don't want the shaft to wobble to much when spinning.

    I did look at used live centers, but the cheapest one I found at a local shop was $25 and the center took a lot of force to turn. The rest were in the $50 dollar range. (nice be Rohm used for $100)

    So I thought I would try to do it myself cause it would be a good learning opportunity.

    My questions are:

    1 Am I on the right tract?

    2 Is there a simpler way?

    3 What am I missing?

  • #2
    Cut a short length of, say, 1-1/4" diameter free cutting steel and bore one end to be a close fit over the tip of your existing ball bearing tailstock center. Drill/tap for a set screw (radially) to keep it firmly in place. Re-chuck the other end and cut the deswirable radius, or cup end.

    [This message has been edited by John Lawson (edited 07-06-2005).]
    Today we carve our own omens Leonidas at Thermopylae

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes you are. I see no problem with your idea.

      ------------------
      Paul G.
      Paul G.

      Comment


      • #4
        you can make a live center easy, this one I made just has broze bushings and never gets run very fast but will hold 100lb part just fine.

        the bullnose end just slides off the end and you can add any end you can make for it.I could still machine it and add real bearings.

        Comment


        • #5
          cuemaker, your question sparked a thought about a live center I almost bought from Grizzly. It has several shaped tip inserts and one of them is an inverted cone/ might work or at least give you an idea to make something like it. look and: http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2005/main/095.cfm?
          Mel
          _____________________________________________

          I would rather have tools that I never use, than not have a tool I need.

          Comment


          • #6
            Here is a poor picture of a live 2 inch 3 jaw chuck that I made out of a chuck that I bought from Harbor Freight for $25. It came with a MT-2 adaptor that I cut down to fit the ID of the 2 bearings that I pressed into the housing that I machined. You can make the bearing holder look like anything so it fits your tailstock of into a chuck. I use it to hold a mandrel when I wind wire for jewelry.

            Maybe this would work for you as you can clamp the que in the jaws of the chuck.



            Joe

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok, a little ad vice ,spend 2 or 3 hours and a few bucks more and DO IT RIGHT. DO NOT RUSH IT.

              Comment


              • #8
                I haven't tried this, but couldn't you just turn a piece of drill rod or whatever so it has a concavity on one end, and is center drilled on the other end to fit the point on your existing live center? Depending on the configuration of your existing live center, you might have enough room to make part of the center drilled end straight cylinder to go over the corresponding part on the live center and use a set screw to hold it on. Should run true enough for sanding operations.
                Lynn S.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Joe,

                  I like that little chuck on a live center!! I gonna have to remember that idea!
                  unfortunately it would be impratical because the chuck jaws would probaly marr the ferrules. I would have to use some kind of collet to protect the ferrules and wood.
                  To much set up for what I am doing. (see my bearing question)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    A hard rubber collet like in a tapamatic? except about ten times larger?

                    It is like a dremel tool, tightens down on a angled collet that is split to draw up to a smaller size.

                    OR? Rubber rollers with the cue trapped inside and a rubber tire turning it? We used to spin tubing like that. I can't remember why we did it thou? darned brain cells are dying right and left, I only got two left and they are waving goodbye at each other.

                    David

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Again from the sharing tips thread:-

                      ***********************

                      A very handy set of centres for the tailstock.



                      Ignore the black one on the right, this is a propriatory wood working one.
                      The body, in the box, is just a taper turning exercise to put a morse taper on a top hatted blank. Then transfered to the head stock, drilled thru for an extractor bar and then bored out to take two sealed bearings.

                      The adaptors are a nice push fit in the bearings and are just ordinary mild steel so they can be machined for special work.
                      Turning in a collet chuck or the 4 jaw will ensure concentricity.
                      Some examples for the ends are long thin centres, inverse centres, centres with parallel stub holes in to hold a certain size shaft and large diameter push centres for thin washers.
                      The choice is yours really.

                      These sets are available commercially, hardened and probably less run out than mine but these are usually megs$$$.

                      John S.
                      .

                      Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



                      Comment


                      • #12
                        David,

                        Here is a link to another post showing some collets I made for when I do tip work. they range from 11mm to 14mm

                        http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Fo...ML/011310.html

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ibewgypsie:
                          Adarned brain cells are dying right and left, I only got two left and they are waving goodbye at each other.

                          David
                          </font>
                          LOL. David, please stick around. You're one of the big reasons I read this board.

                          The curse of having precise measuring tools is being able to actually see how imperfect everything is.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X