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    What is the best paint for painting machiney?
    Kevin Middleton
    Rome Georgia

  • #2
    You came to the right place!

    According to the "redneck" thread running wild in the neighborhood we have a guy on board who speaks fluently with green paint. ALISTAIR! Where the hell are you son? You're needed here!

    I did find this one on a quick search...

    (the topic has come up several times and a few within the past month. I'm sure someone will be along who can remember the thread. You might try "paint" as a site search. Might help if you said what brand of machinery as some of these boys are pretty specific about restorations! Actually, the thread I'm thinking about even told how some guys prep the metal castings before painting)

    [This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 07-09-2005).]
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    Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

    It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.


    • #3
      Aboard epsilon is the paint expert he has alot of experience .Alistair
      Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


      • #4
        Hammertone by rustoleum is some neat paint. Painted on clean surfaces it sticks pretty well.

        Yes, they have green.


        • #5
          why any one would want to paint their machines green?? it seams like every machine i have that went throught the 70's was panited pea green. my shaper my southbeen lathe that was gray. my jones and shippmen grinder that was blue.
          what was with the green?


          • #6

            I am in the middle of painting my horizontal bandsaw, and I was amazed at how long it took me to decide on a paint -- careful analysis of all the opinions from previous posts on this topic is key to your success.

            I will apologize in advance for the long post.

            When I was trying to decide on paint, my major focus was that I wanted the hardest most durable finish I could get. I was also planning to spray it -- this is about the only point I ended up sticking with. I had it in my mind that I needed an epoxy or one of those really nice polyurethane paints (Sherwin William Polane Plus comes to mind in that category). The reason is that they're touted as being EXTREMELY durable. The drawback is they are far more toxic, containing the dreaded isocyanates that many painters dread. Nearly all of them will INSIST you use nothing but a forced air respirator if you plan on spraying them (~$375+).

            Furthermore, the epoxy and polyurethane paints are expensive ($60 +/gal epoxy, $100+/gal polyurethane), and often are not sold in anything other than gallon containers. If you're thinking of anything more than 1 color, this gets real expensive in a hurry. I wasn't changing any colors on the current saw, just replacing them, and it required 3 colors. The $$$ kept adding up for my first real spray job, and got to the point where I just couldn't justify investing that kind of dough on my first go-around.

            Finally, I decided on Rustoleum's Low VOC Industrial enamel (3400 system) because it is actually available in many hardware stores, you can purchase it in quarts (~$8-9) OR gallons (~$30) (2 quarts of the Rusty Metal primer was plenty for my entire bandsaw). The real clincher, though, was some wisdom pointed out by Forrest Addy. He effectively said that you're gonna be scraping metal along this thing, and NO paint is going to withstand that kind of abuse indefinitely (although epoxy and PU will last longer in that environment). Thus, if your tool must always look pristine, go with a paint that can easily be touched up at a later date -- something the Epoxy paints and polyurethanes can not claim IMO.

            To further add, I'd never sprayed paint before with anything other than the rattle can. I got an HVLP gun, and am still learning on it. I'm SOOO glad that I went with the paint I did. There are so many other things I have to worry about, I'm glad that paint fumes are a little lower on the list (I still wear a filter respirator though).

            My first attempt, I had (black) plastic sheeting up all around the garage walls and floor. Then my shoes would stick to the plastic sheeting after the tacky overspray got stuck to them. So I got a couple canvas drop cloths (another $40-50) and some of them cute little "booties" that look real dorky. However, they keep the paint off your shoes so you don't stick to everything. I also learned that black is probably not the best color for the plastic sheeting as it absorbs the light and it is somewhat difficult to see what I'm painting on items close to the "walls".

            This needs to be cut short. Basically, If I had rebuilt a hardinge HLVH lathe and scraped in the ways (tons of hours of loving care), then I would probably use a polyurethane on that machine. However, I'm not ready for that level of dedication yet; I need to learn to walk before I can run, so I'm sticking with some of the paints that are a little easier to apply on a piece of equipment that is not worth a whole lot, yet will still be reasonably durable and hopefully look nice for some time to come, but can be touched up if need be later on without full disassembly.

            Hopefully this will help aid in your decision. Just don't be surprised if it takes you several weeks to decide on a paint :-) Weigh the safety aspects heavily into your choice. I still plan to get a supplied air respirator, just not for this project.


            BTW, I'm surprised that my HF 20 Gallon vertical air compressor is working out quite well for this project. I don't have to stop and wait for the compressor to catch up while in the middle of my parts - would likely be a different story if painting a car though.

            [This message has been edited by webbch (edited 07-09-2005).]


            • #7
              I have used a variety of paints for machines.

              Epilon is very expensive and was designed to be brushed
              Modified epoxy is another one good but expensive and again made to be brushed.

              por 15 makes a variety of colors and if you are going to brush in my opinion it does the best to make brush strokes disappear.

              having sai all that i use rustoleum professional which is made to brush but i thin it enough to shoot through my sata gun.
              Heres how it came out --

              [This message has been edited by teamsouth (edited 07-09-2005).]


              • #8
                I use Tremclad. As that begins to wear off I use oil.
                Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


                • #9
                  Aboard epsilon is the paint expert he has alot of experience .Alistair

                  change to...

                  Aboard epsilon is the no paint expert he has little experience .mark

                  all the best.mark


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the responces. I need to paint a Dashin Studturn Lathe 14 x 40, A Bridgeport Vetical Mill 9 x 42, A Brown and Sharp # 5 surface grinder and if I get to it my litttle horizontal band saw. If only I can find the time ( between the projects) to get this cleaning and painting done. Thanks again for all the help.
                    Kevin Middleton
                    Rome Georgia