Usefull mod to HF mini-mill.. well usefull to me anyway

[Herb Helbig]

For what it's worth, I wrapped a foot of lead sheet around the open end of a combination wrench - the closed end fits my RF-30 mill/drill draw bar. To release the bar, a gentle tap with the lead wrapped end does the trick.

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[tankdriver]

Well the HF Mini-Mill uses a drawbar that has a nut to tighten it down. So you have to hold the bar with one wrench, then tighten a nut below the wrench you're holding the draw bar with, So I ordered the 1 peice draw bar. The hammer I already owned. The socket on it is a 12 point so I either could have made a insert, or cut off the old one and weld a proper size one on. I like the way I did it better. And Thanks for the compliment.

[Alan in Oz]

Good job on the hammer/wrench. I used to have a ring spanner for the draw bar until I forgot it one day and started the machine up, now I have an open ended spanner which just falls off. Just a thought anyway.

[sandman2234]

Wouldn't it have been easier to modify the socket on the hammer, rather than modify the machine?
Or beter yet, just make a new hammer with a correct socket and piece of brass.
Nice work, just not the way I would have gone.
David from jax

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Have gun, will travel.

[tankdriver]

No have not made spindle lock yet. I put the 3/4 nut on the bottom where I'd still have the original nut there, if for some reason I need it. Don't really know why I would tho... I learned to really like the hammer. Victor Tool has the hammer for less than $17.00. Right now everything is on hold. Early week before last, while stepping into my work shop, I heard a snap and the next then I remember is seeing the floor of my shop as my face hit it. I tore a tendon in my right knee and I had to have surgery last Thursday.I have to stay in my recliner it with my leg elevated for a few more days. Gets very boring setting here,…but the pain killers are good… When it rains it pours....


[This message has been edited by tankdriver (edited 07-09-2005).]

[This message has been edited by tankdriver (edited 07-09-2005).]

[This message has been edited by tankdriver (edited 07-09-2005).]

[Your Old Dog]

Tank, I like the idea. You might see it on mine pretty soon! Someone mentioned the spindle lock. Be careful unless you make an entire new unit.



I removed the face of mine to see how much room I had to mount a dro (cheap digital caliper)

At that time I notice if you use the existing bolt it doesn't have a lot of threads left if you try to put too many washers next to the housing as I had to do. I'm thinking on remaking the spindle lock. If I do that, I'll likely use a "T" bar type handle.

Ray......

edited 2d paragraph to make more sense!

[This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 07-09-2005).]

[Labrat]

A spindle lock seems a good thing to do to the typical mill drill. Do you have any particulars?

[jamscal]

Looks good.

I got tired of the stock drawbar myself...but I just welded the nut to the shaft to make it one piece.

Those hammers look handy.

Have you made a spindle lock yet?


-James

[rockrat]

Looks good. And if it works, then it has paid off. Good job. rock-

[This message has been edited by rockrat (edited 07-09-2005).]

[tankdriver]

I know this is a v ery minor thing on this forum, as most are full time machinist who also do home machining, but some others may find it interesting. I am used to using a Bridgeport Mill for years at work. I got a Mini-Mill from HF. The Mini-mill used a nut and draw bar setup which I did not like to start with. So I ordered The Little Tools Shop's one piece drawbar. Like this



One of the tools I had for the Bridgeport was a collet wrench/brass
hammer combo...



Problem is, it is a 3/4" socket. The Draw bar was not. So here's what I did in less than 2 hours.

I took a 3/4' socket and used a boring bar and a lathe and turned the inside to a larger diameter



Then I turned down the draw bar like this



I did the turning to where it would be a press fit. I used a little bit of Red Locktite and lined op the shoulders, then used a press to mate them...



You noticed I turned it up high enough to leave the shoulder at the bottom of the drawbar. I had to mill the inside of the scoket to increase the depth to allow it to go over the original head to reach the 3/4 nut. Here a photo of it finished in the mill...



and in use. Really makes it alot easier.