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Need some help setting up my HF 4 x 6

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  • Need some help setting up my HF 4 x 6

    Ok well problem solved. Got the gear on. Turned out there was a small ledge on the inside of the gear, not on the shaft, so now all I gotta do is align it. Thanks a lot!
    You never learn anything by doing it right.

  • #2
    Need some help setting up my HF 4 x 6

    Well I finally went out and got a bandsaw the other day, and I got the best one money could buy. Well, my money. As a student with no experience of autions and "good" tool stores, as well as the very limited use of the shop, the HF was the right one for me. Anyway, I got it all bolted together and all OK, but started having some troubles getting the blade to track right. It seems to want to get slowly knocked off the wheels. While adjusting the bearings, I also found that somehow the bottom (drive) wheel had come loose from the shaft- still on it, just not spinning. I took it off and aparently the setscrew wasn't tight enough or something, and it kinda cut a little burr into the shaft. So I got it all cleaned up and stuff and now for the life of me can't get the thing back on all the way. It goes up to this point-
    (see if pic works...) 2965_290_1.jpg?ext=.jpg&rand=-4439118191216240585&border=2,255,255,255,1,0,0,0,0 &outquality=90

    What I was wondering, is how far should this thing go on the shaft? There's about a half inch of clearance behind it, and I thought it was supposed to go all the way on, but I could be wrong.

    Secondly, once I get it put back together, how should I go about making sure the blade stays on the wheels? I'm the worlds biggest newbie on this stuff, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

    Edit- Oh yeah, in the picture, the setscrew is not visible. I don't know at all what the little half hole is for, although it has threads in it. Possibly for casting or something, but I'm stumped.

    [This message has been edited by Scatterplot (edited 03-02-2006).]
    You never learn anything by doing it right.


    • #3
      Not sure about why the wheel won't go on or how far it needs to be but I can tell you that the blades on these little saws need to be really tight in order to cut properly.
      I have tools I don't even know I own...


      • #4
        Yeah, I've been trying to get it as tight as I can, but then again this was before I realized the problem with the wheel. Should I use something other than just my hands to tighten the tensioner?
        You never learn anything by doing it right.


        • #5
          There should be an adjustment, somewhere, for tilting the wheels in or out, to adjust the tracking of the blade.
          Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
          Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
          Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
          There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
          Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
          Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie


          • #6
            I had the same problem when I bought my (used) HF saw. Probably why I got it so cheap. First, the starting point is to align the wheels. Take off the drive wheel, clean up any burrs on the shaft with a fine file or oilstone, and slip it back on, but don't tighten the setscrew (yet). The "idler" wheel has a "tracking" adjustment, which causes the wheel to tilt in and out, to make the blade run in the center of the wheel. We'll get there in a minute. Unfortunately, the means to do this is very crude on the HF 4x6s. Take a long straightedge, and adjust the tracking and the position of the drive wheel, until the straightedge hits both rims of both wheels. Tighten the setscrew and the tracking adjustment. Now throw away the HF blade and buy a good one from MSC, Enco, or your favorite local industrial supply. Put this on the saw, but you don't have to crank up the tension all that much. Adjust the guides until the blade runs perpendicular to the base casting (check this with a decent square). Turn on the saw and verify that the blade tracks just off the raised rim of the idler wheel - if not, adjust the tracking slightly until it does. Adjust the spring conterbalance to take most of the weight. Try a test cut. You should be good to go, but you may need to tune a bit more to get things really right. Once you get the saw tuned, you can experiment with the counterbalance to get decent cutting performance.


            • #7
              When I got my 4x6 several years ago, I found I had to do several things to it before it was really good to go. The blade guides, though all ball bearings, were a misalignment mess. I had to actually re-machine the parts to get to an acceptable point, and that only holds for one position of the upper guide assembly. As a consequence, I just leave the guide raised most of the way, and did my alignment with it set like that.
              Fortunately, I haven't had problems with the lower wheel or drive system. I did change the belt, putting on a link belt, what a difference! The motor no longer does the hop.
              It was a minor nightmare to get the cut to be square, and this was affected by the blade amongst other things. A better blade is almost a must if you want decent performance. Don't do much fine alignment with the scrap blade, since a good blade probably won't track the same, at least that was my experience.
              You're going to need a jig to aid in repairing broken blades.
              I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


              • #8
                Did you check for double setscrews? One on top of the other to lock the first one in place? That is designed in some of the more precision machines also. Blade creep is an easy fix on most machines. Sometimes a pain in the ass.



                • #9
                  Well thanks for all the info guys. Looks like I have a little work to do. Right now though the problem is getting the stupid drive gear back on! As seen in the picture, is it on all the way or should it go to the back more? I've tried getting the shaft all prettied up but it's snagging somehow. Is there a trick to this? "Slipping it on" isn't really working out for me.
                  You never learn anything by doing it right.