Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

(Sort of OT) - Ride-on Mower Implements

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • (Sort of OT) - Ride-on Mower Implements

    Hi,

    I bought a used 16hp Husqvarna ride-on lawnmower and want to use it for more than mowing the lawn.

    The cutting deck is easily removed, one bolt and a number of pins leaving a pulley on the horizontal plane. Basically what I am thinking is either running a hydraulic pump off this to drive hydraulic motors on implements, or alternatively, send a belt to the rear with a bevel gear to give a driveshaft out the back as a PTO. I also plan to build some sort of three point linkage.

    Primarily (after mowing the lawn) I want to be able to use it to dig trenches, and to plow/till the soil for gardening. Has anyone attempted to build implements for their lawn mower?

    I have been searching and searching but all I get is vendors of ride-ons and tillers!!

    Thanks

    Ben

  • #2
    It depends on your transmission. "Lawn Tractors" and "Lawn Mowers" are NOT desiged for ground engaging implements. You'll smoke the trany in no time. "Garden Tractors" usually have a heavy duty tranmission and heavy frame. The GT's can handle some implements.

    The big problem with any of the compact tractors is lack of traction. Any weight you add, for traction, should be to the wheel NOT the chassis. This limits the amount of weight you can add. In general, 100lbs. per wheel is all you get.

    I just bought a Sears GT a couple of months ago. It's a 22hp. It needs more traction. I'm thinking of making 80lb. weights for each wheel out of concrete--About one sack each. I keep checking the salvage yard for iron weights (bar bell) but so far no luck.

    I'm in the process of designing a tiller attachment with it's own engine. Heavy items like this are best raised and lowered on their own set of wheels. I thought about using a common frame for a number of imlements. (Plow, tiller, blade, etc.) I'd be able to raise and lower the implements with electric screws, hydraulics or electro-hydraulics. Still in the planning stage but I have it pictured in my mind.

    Comment


    • #3
      The transmission is a Peerless (I think) Hydrostatic. A Rotary Tiller is mainly what I am after. I was also thinking to have it running on wheels, raised and lowered with levers. I just wanted to avoid the need to run a second motor - and so the thought of running a drive system from the deck drive.

      I note that in the original owner's manual of my machine that there was a diff lock option - wish mine had that!!

      When you say to add weight to the wheels not the chassis, what do you mean? I can see how you can add weight to the wheels, unless you fill the rim cavity in some manner...

      Ben

      Comment


      • #4
        Try asking these fellows...............

        http://machinebuilders.net/wwforum/

        This kind of thing is their specialty.
        To invent, you need a good imagination - and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison

        Comment


        • #5
          Depending on the model, a Hydrostatic won't pull much more than the tractor itself. I have just about "used-up" a Murray 20hp Hydro by pulling a small trailer around--Hauling cactus and branches. Perless only makes one or two models designed for ground engaging tractors. These are in the 900 series, IIRC. Even the gear drive tranys are pretty weak.

          Yep. The weights fill the center of the wheel. You can buy them but for me, the shipping cost more than the weights. If your tractor wheels/tires were made to carry more weight, they should have 3-4 square holes in the wheel. These holes are for the wheel weights.

          The only reasons I prefer a separate engine are for the extra weight (plow, blade) and that I don't have to pull the deck. I could just back it up into the barn and disconnect the whole unit.

          ALSO:
          The differential lock-out is probably so you can push the mower. Check under the seat. It's usually just a lever that's moved into a locking slot. If your tractor does NOT have this, it's definately NOT a heavy duty trans.

          [This message has been edited by CCWKen (edited 09-01-2004).]

          Comment


          • #6
            Buy an old Land Rover...
            Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

            Comment


            • #7
              I agree with some of the others that expecting a lawn tractor to do pulling and ground work is probably a recipe for disaster.
              An easy way to add weight to the wheels for traction is to put water in the tyres. Cheap and easy.
              We do this all the time on real tractors. I see no reason why it couldn't be done on smaller ones too.

              [This message has been edited by zl1byz (edited 09-01-2004).]

              Comment


              • #8
                Just make sure the tyre has a tube in it if you put water in, otherwise you have to add a corrosion supression agent. Some lawn tractor tyres are tubless.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I agree that your probably going to regret doing tilling with your Garden Tractor. My garden tractor is more suited to that, and it isn't as tough as it needs to be.
                  I guess if Sears and others are going to call their fancy lawnmowers Garden Tractors, then maybe what I have is a "Compact Tractor". 13 Hp but it will out work a Garden Tractor anyday.
                  David from jax
                  A serious accident is one that money can't fix.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I hate to discourage you but it would be a lot better in the long run to buy a compact tractor and not worry about tearing yours up doing work your mower wasn't designed for. I would go with one of the diesels, around 20 hp for garden work. Weightlifting weights make good wheelweights, can be found cheap at swap meets and yard sales.
                    Michael

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ben. I wish I knew you 10 years ago. When my grandmother died and we had to sell her house all the impements for her old garden mule.
                      For those that don;t know a garden mule was a two wheel, walk behind, tractor.With wheels like a regular tractor only smaller. Ours was two cylanders. The attachments were sized proportionally to the tractor. As I recall there was a plow, disks, harrow , tiller with separate motor.
                      Look up 'two wheel garden tractors' and see what you get.

                      [This message has been edited by Rustybolt (edited 09-01-2004).]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ben, I think your best bet would be the hydraulic pump method. I think this would be the easiest on the tranny. This way you could set the pump to a specific load that would not damage the tractor. This is of course the more expensive option. Cheaper to buy a new tiller probebly!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have 4 of the old 73 - 78 Sears Suburbans and you can't hardly destroy these tractors. 3 (SS model)have the Onan 16 HP twins and 1 (ST model)the single cylindered Themsque (sp) 16 HP. I have had most of the attachments made for these except the backhoe attachment and built a few more that were not offered by Sears for that tractor. If you follow this link you can find photos of the various ground engaging attachments that might give you some ideas for building your own.
                          http://www.geocities.com/sware56920/...cessories.html
                          I will warn you as others have that your tractor (or any garden tractor sold by Sears since 1978 (Suburbans were built by Roper) will not handle these attachments, at least not for very long. I also have a Cub Cadet 1650 hydraststic drive w/hydraulic lift that does well for rototilling and snowblowing but that tractor is also "built" to handle it and much more than a mower tractor.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Here's the key to lawn 'tractors'.
                            Check the rear wheel hub if it has a bolt on wheel it's made to do 'real' work. If it has a cotter pinned shaft it won't do much more than mow your lawn.
                            RobDee

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I have two of the single furrow plows for the two wheel tractors that Rustybolt mentioned. I intend to put them together and make a three point hitch system for my homebuilt tractor. It is surprizing what it will pull with the calcium loaded 15" tires.

                              To invent, you need a good imagination - and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X