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  • #16
    I filmed it with my Sony PC100 MiniDV without any shades or UV/IR filters. I'd like to try filming through a light filter so the CCD's don't saturate.

    I know the original CCDs were very sensitive, but we've come a long way since landing on the moon I guess

    -Adrian


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    • #17
      Thanks for the vid "A". Dont forget to dwell abit to fill that crater.

      A premature "pull-out" dont make anyone happy

      JRouche
      My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

      https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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      • #18
        I have always thought about getting an inert gas welder of some kind. Never got around to it. I make do with my O/A gear and my buzzbox.

        Three pass buzzbox weld with 7018 lo/hi.





        [This message has been edited by Evan (edited 10-15-2005).]
        Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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        • #19
          Hoff. Don't forget to prep your alum by wire brushing with a stainless brush.
          Just thought it needed to be said.

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          • #20
            <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Rustybolt:
            Hoff. Don't forget to prep your alum by wire brushing with a stainless brush.
            Just thought it needed to be said.
            </font>
            Yes and a clean stainless brush, not the one you used to remove rust and barnacles from your latest find.

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            • #21
              Don't forget the white gloves!

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              • #22
                Hoffman, Adrian’s video has some good info. Notice the pre-flow of gas (and perhaps water) prior to the arc, most important in ferrous materials but good policy. Note the torch angle, visibility and shielding gas enveloping the puddle and directed ahead of the puddle. His filler rod shallow angle presented to the leading edge of the puddle, and precise short excursion �jabs’ with rapid withdrawal, and never allows the hot end of the rod to wander from the enveloping gas shielding. Again particularly important with ferrous materials, lest the hot rod oxidize and introduce contamination into the weld.

                Additionally, with ferrous materials, do not pull away prematurely. Allow the gas post flow to continue shielding the weld, rod and the electrode. If you pull away too soon the weld will oxidize blue and you know what that means. Keep dykes close to you to snip off the end of the rod each time you complete a pass. Always start with a clean end of filler rod. If you are making multiple passes, always use a brush (I use a little Ingersoll Rand air grinder with a dedicated brush) to clean the area and remove oxides prior to the next pass. Cleanlyness is close to you know what. Certain contaminants will outgas below the surface of the puddle and create a �Swiss cheese’ interior. This condition MUST be ground out before proceeding lest the situation worsen with each pass. Keep in mind, for thin material, where you will achieve drop through, cleanliness of the back side is just as important, and a post weld inspection of the back side will disclose a lot about your technique. Also, take time with fit up, proper clamping and positioning. You must be comfortable in your seating and work area. Soon you will be able to progressively advance the rod in your finger tips so you do not have to stop to get a new grip on the rod.

                Maintain separate brushes for ferrous and non ferrous materials to prevent cross contamination. Same with the Tungsten grinder, just as you don’t sharpen HHS tools on your green wheels, obtain a small grinder dedicated for just this purpose. Notice his lighweight glove, protection against thermal and radiation exposure, it must be light so you maintain 'feel'.

                Heli-arc can be a lot of fun and very satisfying, from a former NASA certified weldor in the Space and Missile field. . . . . . Last Old Dog

                Not a member of the �Your Old Dog’ clan


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                • #23
                  I went out this evening and ran a few beads. My work bench is either too short or my stool is too tall Anyway I wasn't very comfortable hunkered over so I'll have to remedy that. I also need a stainless brush. I'll probably just buy a dedicated die grinder and keep one on it. I've been cleaning the al with chemical prep and it's a pain to have to rinse it off etc.

                  I cut my friggin' air line clean in two with the bandsaw while cutting some coupons It's on a hose reel in the ceiling so I messed that one up. "What in the hell is that hissing...?"

                  Gotta love it...

                  Left for work at 2 am and got home at 6 pm. Doin' it again tomorrow so I'm not in the best shape to be fooling with it tonight.

                  I did have a little fun though! Even though my welds are crappy I do have a machine that was saved from the scrap pile that is now capable of it. If I can get up to speed on it this will be a kick-ass capability to have.

                  I also need some good gloves.

                  Thanks to all you guys for the help and encouragement!!!

                  Oh yea LOD, what does the "spark intensity" pot do and what is the application? It's about the only thing adjustable on the hi-freq. besides the "soft start" and "Start only/ continuous" switches.

                  I'm guessing that from your backgroung you're a great resource on old school TIG machines. (Mine's from 1970!)

                  [This message has been edited by hoffman (edited 10-14-2005).]
                  Techno-Anarchist

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                  • #24
                    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by hoffman:
                    My work bench is either too short or my stool is too tall Anyway I wasn't very comfortable hunkered over so I'll have to remedy that.</font>
                    After I had finished building my welding table, I had the same problem (except my stool was too short). I also just got my TIG machine and was looking for things to weld so one of the first mild-steel things I welded with TIG was this modified chair. I just cut the old chair in half, sanded the paint off, and welded some 1/4" bar extensions so I could get just the right height.



                    -Adrian

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                    • #25
                      I see it now, Adrian moonwalking across his shop floor wearing that white glove when no one is looking.

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                      • #26
                        <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BillH:
                        I see it now, Adrian moonwalking across his shop floor wearing that white glove when no one is looking.</font>

                        That would be foolish! I only wear my white glove and moonwalk for an audience. There is no point if nobody is looking.... That would be like me asking you to pull my finger, then I run away and go into another room, close the door, and let one rip.

                        -Adrian


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                        • #27
                          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BillH:
                          I see it now, Adrian moonwalking across his shop floor wearing that white glove when no one is looking.</font>
                          Cmon, post a video of that

                          I remember when you did the chair mod.

                          Techno-Anarchist

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                          • #28
                            BTW, don't look directly at the video unless you're wearing your welding helmet

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                            • #29
                              I have the feeling Adrian is passing off this chair mod as a simple mast extension. However, could it really be a camouflaged attempt to comply with an obscure OSHA requirement for an energy absorbing �crumple zone’ to deal with high impact lateral loading? This cover up looks suspicious to me. . . . . Last Old Dog

                              Not a member of the �Your Old Dog’ fraternal organization.

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                              • #30
                                one other thing you guys might try is what i call a "gas lens" it is a collet holder with a screen built in and uses a bigger ceramic nozzle that is easier to drag or "walk" across the weld. PLUS with the screen in the collet holder the argon flows out in a bigger or better pattern for the welder that sometimes holds the torch at the wrong angle or pulls the filler rod away from the weld a little too far hopes this helps mike
                                whiterat

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