No announcement yet.

Easy-Outs...rarely easy, seldom out....

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Was reefin' on a bolt and broke the head off. Optimistically began drilling for the easy-out, about a quarter inch in, the bolt screwed out on the end of the bit. Was a left-hand thread!
    Weston Bye - Author, The Mechatronist column, Digital Machinist magazine
    ~Practitioner of the Electromechanical Arts~


    • #32
      I hate that when that happens (too damn often)...


      • #33
        Where I work we use several methods. Usually starting with Left Hand bit.
        Its good to drill the hole all the way through the stud then if the "easy out" does break it can usually be pounded on through the stud in to the cavity between the end of the stud and the bottom of the hole.
        Another trick when using square tapered EO's is to drill first hole all the way through follow with 2nd bit larger 2/3 depth third bit larger still 1/3 depth giving in effect a tapered hole with a similar taper to the EO , this minimizes breakage and EO's striping out in the hole


        • #34
          Wes: Son in Law and I were working on his cheap aircompressor. Screww with allen head was stuck. Allen wrench rounded off. Damn screw would NOT back out. Took die grinder to screw, put Kroil around the stubb. Vice grips on stub and wiggled, Just a smidgion of movement, but the movement was down! says I some where along the line- thats normal cause the corrision is above the bottom of the hole. Son wiggles the vice grips, says it turns easy then hard. says I " then turn it in the easy direction till it binds then go the way- we got this sob licked once it starts moving either way. So he turnd and turned right handed till the screw fell out. Damn left handed screws!!!!

          its called "TIPOIO" (The Innate Perversity Of Inaniamte Objects".
          Only dogs and kids treat me right.


          • #35
            W.C.Fields often said "Go away, you bother me kid"

            Rodney Dangerfieled claimed "I get no respect"

            And George Carlin declared "Snot, is the original rubber cement..."

            After all that, if you can get a dog to quit licking himself long enough to jump up on you and enthusiasticaly lick your face - what are you complaining about?


            • #36


              • #37
                Tell the bolts that, or the last twit that wanted to make sure no one could get it out..


                • #38
                  When I had things break off, bolts, taps, etc. I have use a torch to warm them up to break the lock, sometimes I have used that spray cold stuff to cause shrinkage, generally after either of both treatment the EZ Off does do it's job.
                  But the best method is not to have the problem, use antiseizure paste before putting in bolts and don't over tighten.


                  • #39
                    The only screw extractors that work really well are the Ridgid brand. They aren't tapered so they don't expand and lock the broken part. Have also done the brick nail
                    (and flat blade screwdriver and square drive extension trick) when I didn't want to go back to my shop and pick up the correct tool.
                    One thing I've done that hasn't been mentioned yet is, I heat the part the bolt is in and then spray WD-40 or penetrating oil in the hole. The expansion allows the oil to get down where its needed. (makes alot of smoke though) This has helped me many times. Also cutting a slot for a screwdriver works very well.

                    On larger bolts I was sometimes able to drill two small holes on the diameter, insert pins, put a bar between them and turn out. This is especially helpfull if the break is way down in the hole. I've had some sucsess with conventional easy outs and have never broken one. The key is that you have to leave a thick wall in the part when drilling so that it won't expand when extracting. Needless to say, its not always possible.

                    For pipe an easyout is usually the begining of the end I use only internal pipe wrenches for pipe and if that fails then I cut and bend the stub out.

                    I've also removed a couple of wheel locks by simply welding on a square rod axially. This will work even if the lock is in a deep counterbore without clearance for those Snap On extractor sockets.

                    If you need to remove a large bolt and the break is at the surface or just below, you can weld a piece of bar on the end at a tangent and then simply turn it out with the bar.

                    Hope this will help someone.

                    Saw this on a post at 7x10 lathe group
                    "Remember, a lone amateur built the Ark, but a large team of trained engineers built the Titanic"