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  • Bandsaw Blade Recomendations

    Just bought a Jet 5x6 bandsaw. I realize the blade that came on it won't last long so I'm open to suggestions. Bimetal? Starrett? Lennox? Will be cutting 1/8-1/2 majority of the time. No coolant at this time but will be retrofitting later. Also, does anybody have any suggestions for a cylinder to control downfeed?
    Thanks!
    WANNABE

  • #2
    Pat,

    Regarding the downfeed cylinder. You can make one very easily. All you will need to make is a cylinder and piston, and buy a couple of O-rings and a small valve. Put the valve so that if runs from each end of the cylinder via a pipe. On the downfeed just crack the valve so that it controls the downfeed rate desired (oil will run to the top of cylinder) and then open the valve completly so that the oil will run to the bottom of the cylinder very easily when the saw is lifted.

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    • #3
      I have had good luck with the lennox and starrett blades from enco. They run anywhere from $8 to $12 a piece. As far as coolant goes, unless you are going to be cutting stainless, I wouldn't bother with it. Yes, you can build a pan to catch it and all that but the saw really doesn't need it. I have a 4x6 bandsaw and it cuts great with no coolant and it stays a lot cleaner without it. Also, the part usually never gets hot if the blade is in good shape. Also, the standard spring adjusted downfeed control works well too. Really no need for a fancy hydraulic cylinder.
      Jonathan P.

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      • #4
        It's been discussed lately at: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Fo...ML/014089.html

        A lot of good info.

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        • #5
          Go to http://www.countrysaw.com for blades...Bob
          Bob Wright
          Salem, Oh Birthplace of The Silver & Deming Drill

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          • #6
            The $10 blades that they sell at Home Despots (Depot) seem to work really well. I kept the saw by the lathe so I would hit the blade with a little spindle oil every now and then during a cut. Seemed to get about six months of fart around use out of them before they died.

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            • #7
              Starrett - MTX type. 14 TPI, stagger tooth. These things are bomb proof and student proof. I think they might also be called metalflex. Buy them welded to length. Expensive, yes. However, I used to buy by price, went through eight to ten blades per year in my shop. Started buying these blades, one to two, and the only reason I lose them is by mis use in the eraly parts of the course, not by wear. After proper teaching, I do not lose a blade until the next year.

              Be sure to look over break in procedures for bandsaw blades when buying them. I used to scoff at this, now after 18 years of teaching this stuff, and blowing money I should not have wasted, I swear by it.

              ALSO - Something not often said. The three teeth rule of bandsaw blade use. You can blow a blade very easy by cutting thin stuff wrong. The trick is to have three teeth of the bandsaw blade in contact with metal during the major bulk of the cut, if not at nearly all times (entry is the exception, and this can be controlled). Cutting very thin stuff like 1/8 stock, this can be hard, but putting a piece of aluminum or other metal underneath to act as a shim tyou will save blades.



              [This message has been edited by spope14 (edited 12-21-2005).]
              CCBW, MAH

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