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OT- Best safe to buy....Locksmith, you out there?-OT

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  • OT- Best safe to buy....Locksmith, you out there?-OT

    Just looking for input on some names or models of home safe to be on the lookout for...Maybe with one or two cubic feet of storage space. I'm just starting to look so any informed input on brand or mechanism is appreciated.

  • #2
    Depending what you are going to store in it and what you want to keep from happening to item in it.The ratings on safes generally are what they will withstand in heat/btu's for how many minutes such as 1680F degrees for 90 minutes. Go for the highest rating you can afford. Also if it is a small safe make sure you can bolt it to the floor so they can't pick it up and run. You can look for gun safes both for handguns or long guns. Also I would suggest staying away from any old beat safes with character.Unless you get them from a dealer that sells safes. AS some of them had glass vials in the doors with nasty stuff in them to foil safe crackers.( acid and cycanide)
    Also the older locking mechs have more trouble and are harder to open. If you are near a large city Look for a shop that has safeman in the phone book listing. As I am a bonded locksmith and the only way I could open a safe is with a plasma torch or cutting torch. They are a whole seperate speciality.and generally only a few shops will deal in them but all will sell you a used safe. The only other thing is weight of the safe. I was told about an old coot that bought this massive safe and was having it moved in to his house. They told him it was to heavy for his wood flirst floor,but he insisted. A couple of hours later it was in the basement and the guy had new way to get to the lower level.
    Hope this helps

    Been there, probally broke it doing that
    Been there, probably broke it, doing that!
    I am not a lawyer, and never played one on TV!
    All the usual and standard disclaimers apply. Do not try this at home, use only as directed, No warranties express or implied, for the intended use or the suggested uses, Wear safety glasses, closed course, professionals only


    • #3
      Consider mounting it (bolted from the inside) in a closet on an outside wall of the home. Mearsure and mark 4 discreet corners outside to aide the firemen in chainsawing it out of the wall for you if a fire develops. It's about a 50-50 chance it may save some important documents for you. But then again, a thermonuclear incident will wipe it out anyway but I'd take any odds I can get to save some family heirloms.
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      Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

      It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.


      • #4
        A friend of mine wall monted a small safe and then hung a dummy central heating radiator in front of it complete with fake fixings no one ever suspected it even though he had his house burgled several times worked wonders for him.Alistair
        Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


        • #5
          Thanks for the input...I've got some pretty good ideas as far as mounting. Basically I'm looking for something that will foil thieves for the longest time. I'm a little torn between keeping the mounting location of it totally secret...just worried that if I croak or something no-one will know it's there.

          I'll definately contact a pro and look into a used safe.

          PTSideshow, you bring up a good point that one of my friends brought up when I was fabricating some secure tool storage...I make sure to secure my big crow bars, my sledge, my welding tools, and my hand trucks. Nothing like providing the thief with the burglary and loading tools...


          • #6
            <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by abn:
            PTSideshow, you bring up a good point that one of my friends brought up when I was fabricating some secure tool storage...I make sure to secure my big crow bars, my sledge, my welding tools, and my hand trucks. Nothing like providing the thief with the burglary and loading tools... </font>
            Kinda funny, two years ago I was elk hunting up by Flagstaff, and there was another camp about a 100 yards from mine. The guy had a really nice camp trailer(not a travel trailer, just a trailer for hauling gear), that looked like it had been custom made. He also had one of those really nice security cables and a expensive padlock, that he used to padlock it to a small pine tree. He also left a small chainsaw in the back of that trailer...and guess who didn't have a trailer anymore when he got back from hunting that day. Too add insult too injury, they left the chainsaw sitting on the stump from the tree they cut down. lol


            • #7
              <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by abn:
              Basically I'm looking for something that will foil thieves for the longest time. </font>

              Go the glass cyanide vials then...That sound like they will foil the crooks for awhile ....There may be some legal implications for you though if you go that route...
              Precision takes time.


              • #8
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                • #9
                  You're kidding, Right ?

                  I was unavailable when ABN was looking for me with this post. He might have already bought the safe , but I had to respond to some of the posts.

                  What they used to use inside of some safes was a vial of tear gas, not cyanide. It is illegal in most places to set a trap for someone. If you had a safe with cyanide in it and killed the burglar, as much as it may not make sense, you would probably go to jail for it. A case in point was about an old man who rigged up a shotgun towards his basement window. A kid climbed through the window, got his brains blown out and the old man went to jail. The point of the tear gas was to make the room the safe was in difficult to remain in, so the burglar would be forced to leave. Any body who went through Marine Boot Camp like I did is going to know exactly what I'm talking about.

                  Safes are either fire rated, or burglary rated. There are some safes that are both but they consist of a small burglar safe monted to the inside of a fire safe and usually cost a fortune. The average person doesn't have a clue about the difference.
                  Burglary resistant safes are rated by the length of time they can withstand an attack by various burglary methods. The ratings are usually TL 15 or TL 30 and mean that a safe can withstand a heavy attack for whatever number of minutes follow the TL. This might not seem like much, but you have to compare them with fire rated safes, which aren't stopping ****.
                  A fire safe might be labeled "1 hour". This means that the inside of the safe will not rise above 350 degrees Farenheit for 1 hour, Why ? Paper can begin to combust with contact with a flame at about 451 degrees (Remember Bradbury's book "Farenheit 451"?). The insulating material holds moisture that turns to steam and covers the contents of the safe with a blanket of steam, preventing any kind of combustion THe idea is that it's unlikely that a fire is going to go un-noticed for very long before the firemen get there and start fighting it. This steam build up is why you can't open a fire safe right after it's pulled from a fire; it has to cool down slowly.
                  The fact that these safes are full of insulation, means that they are thin skinned and exceedingly easy to open. I've had "Here's the death certificate, we need to get in and get the will- I don't care what you do to the safe" requests dozens of times. I've opened some of these with some well placed hammer blows.
                  Does this mean, if you have a fire safe, don't put your jewelry in it ? No, you use what you have. It's still better to have a fire safe screwed to the floor with your jewelry in it , than to leave the stuff in a drawer. Why make it easy?


                  • #10

                    I meant to say "Combust WITHOUT contact with a flame at 451 degrees".