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Drilling hardened loader bucket blade?

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  • Drilling hardened loader bucket blade?

    I need to drill the hardened blade on a loader bucket. I want to install a bolt-on wear edge, I tried my chicago latrobe bits but no go. What can I use? or is it even possible? I had a guy tell me to use a $30.00 bit from snap on, What ever that means? any way, any ideas? I have an acct with msc, so any thing they sell would be easiest for me.

    Thanks Bob

  • #2
    Try solid Carbide yet?


    • #3
      I tried a carbide bit for masonary, I have had good luck with these in the past, it did go about half way through and then started to side track. I figured I was on the right track. I don't mind spending money on a good bit, but I would like to buy the right bit the first time, if possible.



      • #4
        A cole drill with a resharpened masonary bit. I was going to sell mine, but apparently it is on permanent loan to brother in law to drill truck frames.


        • #5
          I have had some luck spot heating with a torch until a reddish glow, then drill hard and fast...5/8" hole in hard plate



          • #6
            The carbide bits should do it. Did you regrind the masonry bit?

            Oh yeah, the Cole drills are handy. I used mine to drill all the holes in the Kenbota frame. I almost sold mine but they come in too handy. I only paid $5 for mine.

            LOL...Rustybolt. That's why I don't lend out tools. You can use all you want HERE, but they don't leave.


            • #7

              What is a core drill? is it the machine or the bit? and how should I re-sharpen the masonary bit?

              I think the carbide bit may be the way to go. Does the carbide bit look like a regular high speed bit, just carbide, or some thing else? would you recomend indexable?

              Sorry for all the questions.

              Thanks Bob


              • #8


                The die drills on that page work well but are basically a high-quality masonary drill. I've used them on molds in the mid-50s Rc. They can be sharpened on a green wheel or a diamond wheel. You need a constant steady pressure with the most ridgid setup possible. When it stops cutting or starts screaming it's time to sharpen. Good luck.


                [This message has been edited by moldmonkey (edited 12-18-2005).]
                Jon Bohlander
                My PM Blog


                • #9
                  Are you step drilling? What I mean, are you drilling an 1/8" hole first for your 5/8" or 3/4" hole, if you are drilling a large hole?

                  With the carbide tipped mason drills they work much better with a piloted hole already in place. JRouche
                  My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group



                  • #10
                    Thanks guys,

                    I want to end up with a 1/2 in hole, eight of them, What size pilot hole should I start with? Also, I am doing this with a 1/2 in hand drill, not very rigid.

                    What do you think?


                    • #11
                      Pilot with a bit that will have a larger diameter overall that the chisel point of the finale bit.

                      Example: For a 1/2" bit with a chisel point of 1/8" use an 1/8" or larger pilot hole (bit) so it is just the flutes that are cutting not the chisel point of the 1/2" bit.

                      For brazed carbide drills there is no chisel point. The idea here is to start the hole straight and to avoid "wandering" of the bit. By using a smaller primary bit and finishing with the final secondary bit you will be able to bore a "straighter" hole VS starting out with the final ID bit.

                      Also with brazed carbide bits you can vary from the standard 118آ° or 135آ° bits and lean toward a more aggressive angle such as 160آ° to 175آ°. JRouche
                      My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group



                      • #12
                        As I see it you have several choices, some expensive some not so expensive.

                        1. Cabide bit expensive

                        2. Plung EDM less expensive

                        3. O/A cutting torch even less expensive.

                        The torch in the hands of an experienced person can cut holes down to about 1/4 inch in 1 inch plate. You may also be able to do it with a plasma cutter.


                        • #13
                          You forgot
                          4) Weld it on and be done with it.


                          • #14
                            What about a simple drill guide that can be clamped to the bucket? How about a couple of pieces of 1/2" steel tacked together with a predrilled 1/2" diameter hole to hold the bit steady.


                            • #15
                              Rent a mag drill for a day.
                              The difference between drilling with a mag drill, and a hand drill, is night and day.
                              Frankly, with a decent twist drill bit, a slow enough speed, some lube like cool tool, and a mag drill, you should be able to drill it with a high speed drill bit, but a solid carbide bit would be better.
                              Not sure if they make them that small or not, but an annular drill bit, like a rotobroach, which is basically a carbide toothed hole saw, would work really well in a mag drill as well.