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u joint cross bearing replacement tricks

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  • u joint cross bearing replacement tricks

    Have machine with 1 one single u joint that needs replacing to remove all to get it out untold amount of time,any one know of a trick to get the old cross out without dismantling the machine or any type of tool to push out cross bearing and replace it, all information will be appreciated.
    mm curvin

  • #2
    If the shaft has enough movement & the U joint is accessible, you should be able to use a C clamp, a socket & make up a pusher. Snap-On and other tool makers have expensive versions of this kind of tool just for replacing U joints.
    Not spamming or slamming you...just kind suggestions.
    Why "Electromotive" EMD Division ???? Locomotives or corrosion/ chemistry ?
    Anyway, hope the idea helps.


    • #3
      You could use a ujoint tool available from harbor freight also sold as balljoint tool, also sold as a brake anchor pin remover. jim


      • #4
        Even if you can get the bearings out of the yokes, will you be able to get the cross out of the yokes? Don't you want to replace that, too?

        Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.


        • #5
          The olny tool you need is a hammer and it will take less them a minute.


          • #6
            I've changed millions of em'....yup a big a$$ C-clamp works best. Spray some WD40 or something like it on the joint first. Make sure it doesn't have internal "C" clips first.
            I have tools I don't even know I own...


            • #7
              Does driveshaft have slip spline ? It would need some sort of slip to the shaft length to make clearance to replace the cross.JIM


              • #8
                OA cutting torch,cut through cross,seperate and knock cups out where they are easy to get to.Be sure and remove the grease fittings first.
                You'll need a new joint anyway,why make it hard on yourself.
                I just need one more tool,just one!


                • #9
                  In another life I used to repl. the rear u/j's all the time in A/H Sprites without pulling the propshaft. Made a few bux beatin' the flat rate and never had a comeback. Same technique should apply in your case.

                  Use an air hammer (with ear protection!) with a hammer tool installed. Spray the joint with penetrant; remove all 4 circlips; hammer all caps enough to verify that they're all broken loose. You may have to back-up the joint with a body dolly if it's a stubborn one. Hammer one of the caps just far enough that the opposite cap comes out enough to grip with large Vise-Grip pliers BUT NOT SO FAR THAT THE CAP YOU'RE DRIVING ON POPS OUT INTO THE CENTER! Pull the protruding cap out with the pliers; hammer the cross back through until the 1st cap can be removed with your pliers. Oh yeah, make sure the 1st removal process is on the 2 caps that will allow you to remove the drive flange with it's 2 caps and the cross to work with on the bench.

                  Repeat the above process carefully on the 2 remaining caps; wash up the good pieces. Carefully examine all the bores and remove any burrs and clean out the circlip grooves scrupulously.

                  Take the 4 caps off the the new joint and make sure there's enough stiff grease in the caps to hold all the needles in place; position the new cross into the flange so that a journal protrudes enough to start a cap and engage the needles. Turn down your hammer to about 1/2 power and carefully drive the 1st cap and the cross through until the opposite jounal protrudes enough from the opposite side to get cap 2 in place. Put the 1st cap circlip into it's groove and hammer cap 2 into place. If you ain't screwed the pooch so far and dropped a needle, the 2nd circlip will drop right in.

                  Offer the flange and cross unit up into the propshaft yoke and repeat the process. As long as you use the journals to hold the needles in place, it WILL WORK, EVERY TIME!

                  I used to get tickled at newbies struggling with u/j's forever and finally turning in a supplemental estimate claiming the propshaft was corroded/bent/worn out, etc and had to be replaced.

                  "Accuracy is the sum total of your compensating mistakes."

                  "The thing I hate about an argument is that it always interrupts a discussion." G. K. Chesterton


                  • #10
                    u joint replacement,Thanks to all replies think i can replace it now very easily.just came up with that handle no real reason.
                    mm curvin