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  • An other tool block

    Hi Guys
    Since I posted the pictures of the tool post that I built last week or so, I decided to post this pic. of a special tool block that I made some years ago.

    It will hold a 5" sine bar for setting the compound rest to cut a taper and also it holds the starret dial indicator bar when dialing in a project in the four jaw chuck.




    [This message has been edited by charlie coghill (edited 01-21-2006).]
    Don\'t ask me to do a dam thing, I\'m retired.
    http://home.earthlink.net/~kcprecision/

  • #2
    Charlie you are a fine tool maker....

    How do you use the sine bar to detirmine the angle for taper turning?

    Fine work Charlie JRouche
    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey,I like that,made me firing up the puter worthwhile.No more fishing space blocks out of the chip pan now.
      I just need one more tool,just one!

      Comment


      • #4
        That is another good idea.

        If you do make toolholders in bulk, it is a good idea to leave a couple of blanks with jist the dovetail machined so that custom ones such as this can be built later as the idea or need arises.

        I have made several out of aluminum for holding indicators and other low stress applications. It machines easily and saves the steel for cutters.
        Jim H.

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        • #5
          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by JCHannum:
          That is another good idea.

          If you do make toolholders in bulk, it is a good idea to leave a couple of blanks with jist the dovetail machined so that custom ones such as this can be built later as the idea or need arises.

          I have made several out of aluminum for holding indicators and other low stress applications. It machines easily and saves the steel for cutters.
          </font>
          I need a couple more dickson tool holders, but had not thought of making them out of aluminium and dedicating those to such use - ha! thanks

          Comment


          • #6
            Jr; I don't know if I can explaine it well here but here goes.
            With the sine bar mounted on the tool post, mount a dial indicator so that it's tip can touch both rolls on the sine bar as the compound rest is travesed back and forth. Keep working the sine bar untill the dial readings are the same on both rolls. Now you have the sine bar parallel with the movement of the commpound rest.

            Now two ways to do this. Once again you can use the dial indicator. Kick the comound rest around some where close to the angle you want to cut. Figure out how many thousands per inch the taper will be times 5 and that will be the difference between the two rolls.

            Or put a shaft in the lathe and butt up one roll aginst the shaft and a Jo block between the oposite roll and the shaft. You will have to stack the jo blocks to match the taper in thousands of inch for the 5 inches between the rolls of the sine bar.

            So if you have a taper of .010 per inch you would have a total taper of .050 in 5 inches. Your stack of Jo blocks would have to add up to .050. That stack would be placed between one of the sine bar rolls and the shaft. Which roll that is used would depend on which way the taper was being cut.

            I realy hope that I have written this so that it is understandable and haven't confused you.
            Don\'t ask me to do a dam thing, I\'m retired.
            http://home.earthlink.net/~kcprecision/

            Comment


            • #7
              I like it! Not proud, I will shamelessly copy it. Just a thought, but the adjustable parallels would probably make a pretty good sub for the blocks, lot easier to handle and keep in place while setting up. Thanks for the post!
              Mike

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              • #8
                <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by charlie coghill:
                I realy hope that I have written this so that it is understandable and haven't confused you. </font>
                Yep, good explanation. Real accurate method for offsetting the compound...Now I see's the light... Thanks Charlie. JRouche
                My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

                https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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