Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cold rolled finish stinks, I've had enough

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • J Tiers
    replied
    Hmmmmm

    Got some 1018 from Metal express (picked up, they are local) a little while back.

    It finished fine. No problems.

    It was reasonably cheap, too. A 4 foot piece of 1 5/16" diameter was about $15. I'd seen it much higher.

    Leave a comment:


  • lane
    replied
    STOP wseing 1018 crs use only 1215L ,1214L or stressproof 1144 .CRS 11018 never cut good not 10years or20 years or 30years ago .You musthave gotten some1214L or1215 it looks like crs 1018 but cuts slick.

    Leave a comment:


  • TECHSHOP
    replied
    A little off topic:

    But at the old closed place we used alot of stainless steel,

    the USA/Canada stuff was as expected

    the China stuff was, um, different

    machining, welding, rusting but all three had the same number

    ------------------
    Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

    Leave a comment:


  • sauer38h
    replied
    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Dick Plasencia:
    So the question is how can there be different 1018? Seems to me that some supplier is not selling 1018 they are selling something else under that "name."</font>
    Good question. To be 1018 it has to have 0.18% carbon content. Period.

    Within some tolerance, anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • amateur
    replied
    While were on the subject of steel grades I was wondering what is SPS shaft steel ? Is it a trade name.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Dick Plasencia
    replied
    This may all be due to the source of the 1018. I wouldn't think there is a difference but the horror stories I read here have got to be true. My supplier gets his 1018 from Canada. It is also stamped or stenciled that way. It machines very nicely and I can get a bright finish on it without sanding or filing. So the question is how can there be different 1018? Seems to me that some supplier is not selling 1018 they are selling something else under that "name."

    Leave a comment:


  • HWooldridge
    replied
    Cold rolled is just hot rolled that has been finished between dies after the scale is removed - what you are seeing are hard and soft spots in the bar. Some of this stems from the fact that the carbon content has crept up over the years so the stuff will harden in places. Most of our steel is remelted cars so the '76 Gremlin is probably on the mark. I toured a "mini-mill" some years ago when they were melting shredded cars and making rebar. Inclusions were often seen in the rolled bar.

    A well-known ornamental blacksmith (Robb Gunter) used to demonstrate making 'quickie' tools by heating a piece of A36 and quenching in a brine/soap solution - the piece would come out between 35-40 Rc. That tends to prove that 1018 ain't really that anymore - it's closer to 1030, which is approaching medium carbon steel.

    Leave a comment:


  • mbensema
    replied
    Rockrat, 304L does not have any lead in it, the L means low carbon.

    http://www.azom.com/details.asp?Arti...tainless_Steel

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Got to agree that the cold rolled is not what it used to be, even down under in Aust, it's the same horrible stuff. The metal dealers get their supplies from Korea and yep, it's sure crud to work with. Anything under about 1200 rpm just turns to SH*#, not nice stuff at all.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    many times turning cold roll that gummy stuff tears and looks like hell,like a big long shaft that you dont want to spin too fast, I save .002 to file and if its for a seal surface I may save .005" to file then polish.

    Cold rolled finish stinks is right , get the stressproof shaft if you can.

    Leave a comment:


  • torker
    replied
    Yes...over night it will remove most of it. I use a large Tupperware cake container to soak most things in.
    The vinegar is cheap and lasts a long time.
    Try a small piece...you'll like it!
    Russ

    Leave a comment:


  • rsr911
    replied
    Nope never tried that. I'll need a pretty big vat off vinegar though.

    Does the acid attack the mill scale?

    ------------------
    -Christian D. Sokolowski

    Leave a comment:


  • torker
    replied
    Christian...a dummass question...as usual, But have you tried soaking the HR in vinegar overnight?
    I've been doing it for awhile now and it sure makes life easy.
    Russ

    Leave a comment:


  • rsr911
    replied
    I've been having the opposite problem. CR has been hard to come by lately so I'm stuck with HR. Tears up carbide on the CNC cutting through the mill scale and leaves a bad finish on the lathes. Made my bullnose out of HR yesterday (see other post) and got a good finish with a TNMG insert and 1100 RPM with a deep finish cut (0.050") Run those postive rake inserts fast enough and they'll almost polish the metal any slower and the surface it rough than 80 grit sandpaper.

    ------------------
    -Christian D. Sokolowski

    Leave a comment:


  • rockrat
    replied
    Yup, 1018, bottom of the batch. With all of the crap they throw in the mix for it, most likely its tears when I hit that little chunk of engine block from a '76 Gremlin.

    Will have to try running it a bit quicker. But yes, I think that I need to try a different grade of material. I have some 304L that truns great. Fantastic finish. Must be that little bit of lead in there.

    rock-

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X