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Parting off Chromed Shafting

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  • Parting off Chromed Shafting

    Hi I am planning on making a few Special Custom Hydraulic Cylinders. Will parting off through the Hard Chromed Shafting require special Techniques? Any Helpful advice would be appreciated. Also any tips for honing out the tube of the Hydraulic Cylinder would be appreciated. Thanx Audrey

  • #2
    When you find out, please let me know as I've got several pieces I can't do a thing with. Exterior is hardened but the interior is still soft enough to be drilled with a HSS drill.

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    • #3
      You can grind the chrome away from where you wish to cut,then go sailing through the rest of the shaft,with a cutoff tool.

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      • #4
        I'd try a chop saw, if you have access to one. Once it's cut off, it could be put in the lathe and faced off with a carbide tool.

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        • #5
          Chop saw is good. Have cut 1.5 inch Hyd Cylndr shaft with hand held cut off tool to make a mark through the plating. Onnce trhough in a small place the plating will just peel back. If the shaft is case hardend for some reason, "ring" the shaft until you get below the hard stuff.

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          • #6
            Audrey,
            You ask about honing tube. I am sure that just as you can buy hard-chromed shaft, you can also buy honed tubing.
            My catalogues list "Hydraulic Cylinder Tube" from 1" to 10" ID, available in honed, burnished and mirror finish.
            BTW, my catalogue also lists the hard chrome bar with option of 1045 hard chromed and 1045 induction hardened and hard chromed.

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            • #7
              I think, then, that what I have must also be the induction hardened kind. Start at the tailstock end of a piece, with a properly ground and set carbide tool, when it get to the end of the bar, it just twists the entire tool post away from the work piece. This stuff is HARD!!

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              • #8
                As for cutting off chrome shafting, I like to grind the chrome off where I am cutting, then it just goes in the band saw. Has anyone ever used the nitro shafting? We use it on our cylinders and have had good luck. There's no chrome to flake off and get pitted.

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                • #9
                  What is nitro shafting?

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                  • #10
                    I use a carbide insert cut-off blade. Always works.

                    Flex-hone are used by many companies to hone tubing (calipers, blocks, etc.)

                    Nitro shafting is Nitrated (case hardened) steel shafting 62RC - poor mans Chrome shaft. Farmers buy cylinders made with it to reduce costs around here - have no idea if it sucks or not. It is also used with round linear bearings in a polished state.

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                    • #11
                      T Wise,
                      I guess you mean nitrided steel? (surface hard only, done at relatively low temp = less distortion). If so, isn't rust a problem?...hard chrome isn't there just for a good wear surface.

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                      • #12
                        As far as I know The nitrated bar (nitro is a brand name I guess) stands up well against rust. According to the literature it was developed for the military, I guess the're kinda sensative regarding bright shiny objects when the're trying to stay hidden or something. The bar is hardened to a depth approx .003 the finish is similar to an oxide coating. It stands up to wear and rust, I think that's because the outer surface traps oil, this deals with the rust problem. Any more questions I'll have to dig out some literature at work. Tim

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                        • #13
                          Audrey,

                          I use to do much honing... I would be happy to give you as much info as I can recall (its been a 1.5 years since I have been in the shop).

                          What I need to know is what kind of equipment you have for this project, the material that you plan on using and the kind of tolerance that you need for your "special hydraulic" assembly.

                          In general... I will tell you that you should be carefull of the heat that you generate from honing. Use a high quality lubricant (higher sulphur content the better) and use a lot of it! I use to come home with this wicked stench... but nothing can replace a good honing oil. By using a lot of lube you will be able to keep your part cool and get good measurements.

                          You should keep strokes nice and even in tempo... don't try to remove a lot of material fast this will distort the bore. You will also want to flip (unless it is a blind hole) your part often. WHy? Well, your honing rythm (typically) will cause the bore to have an asymmetrical shape... flipping the part helps cancel this out and will give you a better bore. Make sure that your strokes go beyond the entrance and exit of the bore... BUT... don't let the hone hang out on either of these lips too long or you could end up with an hourglass shaped bore.

                          I am sorry that I am running on with this topic... the best way to explain honing is that it is much like welding (I do both) and it takes a feel (honing, like welding, is much like an art in that sense). There is no one method that will cover all honing needs.

                          As suggested ealier... if you can buy the sleeve... then that may be the best way to go... pending on the needs/accuracy of your assembly.

                          I hope this helps... please let me know if I can be of any more help.

                          E.Bob

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