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Manganese Steel

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  • Manganese Steel

    I need to make a new cutting edge for an excavator bucket (for digging through rubble). I have an opportunity to get hold of manganese plate, 2cm & 3cm thick.

    Would this material be a good choice for this application?

    Is it weldable? Machineable?

    I have no idea how much manganese is in there; the owner only knows that it's "manganese steel".

    Any thoughts?


    All of the gear, no idea...

  • #2
    Manganese alloy is tough stuff. Sturm Ruger uses it to investment cast their large caliber revolver frames. Wildcatters use those stock frames to build revolvers to fire rounds that approximate a stout 45.-70 load.

    That said though...I think T-1 is the alloy usually used in abrasive service conditions like your's

    [This message has been edited by Carl (edited 03-12-2006).]


    • #3
      A guy I work with made a hoe for his bobcat. He got a gate pass for some used stellite, but I don't know what the stellite came off.


      • #4
        Lot's of parts for the mining industry are made with Manganese steel, because of it's tough wear characteristic's.
        This it true Manganese (Hatfield) steel, 14%+ manganese by content and requires some special handling and techniques for machining and welding.
        I've never heard of true manganese steel in plate stock, and were the biggest hardner of manganese in the USA. But, it might be a lower content and I'm sure theirs many things I've never heard of before.
        Test it with a magnet, true manganese steel is nonferrous, so it shouldent stick.
        Limited machining can be done with carbide, but most go to ceramics for serious work.
        I dont remember the alloys for welding off the top of my head, not my side of the business, but I can refresh my memory today at work and post back for ya.
        Cheers, YOOO VINNY


        • #5
          Ian. I'm pretty shure you have to preheat manganese steel before welding. Otherwise you'll get carbide precipitation to the HAZ and the weld will crack.


          • #6
            Thanks guys,

            The main attraction of this steel was the price (free). I was indeed worried about the weldability - I have visions of it cracking. If a preheat with a gas torch will prevent that, fine.

            Again, the present owner has no idea of the composition of the steel; I might try getting one of the plates, and weld & machine a test piece.


            All of the gear, no idea...


            • #7
              in a word...

              Ruger uses Chromium-Molybdenum steel for alloy steel frame revolvers.

              As to standard low alloy Mn steel.
              There are high carbon .45 (AISI-SAE 1345) and low carbon .30 (AISI-SAE1330) Mn steels but the Mn content is generally around 1.75% with trace amounts of (P)hosphorus and (Si)licon and the balance is Iron (Fe).

              They are most definatly Ferrous.

              If you are talking about Austinetic Manganese steel that is a different animal. This artical is a good place to start.
              Ignorance is curable through education.


              • #8
                Any alloy with iron as the primary ingedient is a ferrous alloy regardless of the magnetic properties. Ferrous means "of or containing iron".

                Non magnetic stainless steel is a ferrous alloy as is any other alloy with the major alloying metal being iron.
                Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


                • #9
                  <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Carl,
                  in a word...
                  Ruger uses Chromium-Molybdenum steel for alloy steel frame revolvers.</font>
                  I got some bad info somewhere. Did some further research and they do indeed use chrome-moly. Thanks for the correction.
                  THAT OLD GANG 'O MINE


                  • #10
                    I replaced the cutting edge in my bucket three years ago with a piece of 'free' stuff. Last year in the middle of a good paying job, it let go into about 4 pieces. Ended up ordering a new edge through the local JD Industrial dealer, two days down time, and because I was swamped with other stuff, ended up paying another welder $100 to do the repair. (He also has a plasma that made the fitting real easy for himself.)

                    Actual cutting edge through dealer was $80 (I think), and much better use of my $$$$. Wish I'd gone that route the first time.....would have prevented a bunch of downtime that cost me money.