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Thoughts on removing a stuck screw

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  • Thoughts on removing a stuck screw

    I would like to remove a screw that helps holds the saddle of my lathe. The head is buggered up. I ground a screw driver to fit but it will not budge. Would heat be OK or will it cause the cast iron to crack? Should I drill it and use an easy out. Any chance it is left hand? the outer one is right hand and will come out easily. Gary P. Hansen
    In memory of Marine Engineer Paul Miller who gave his life for his country 7-19-2010 Helmand Province, Afghanistan. Freedom is not free, it is paid for with blood.

  • #2
    If by outer one you mean 2 screws in the same hole, with the outer used to jam it, then both would be right handed. I would try an impact screwdriver if it were mine. James

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    • #3
      What about an impact driver?They work wonders on those stuck filister head screws Honda motorcycles love so much.

      I also have punched a hole in a piece of sheetmetal,placed it over the head followed by a flat washer and then mig welded a "stud" on top of the head and backed it out with vise-grips.It ruins the screw,but avoids all the cussing generated by drill bits and easyouts and the sheetmetal protects the shinney surfaces from the welding soot,spatter etc.Hope that helps.
      I just need one more tool,just one!

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      • #4
        Gary, I get all the used dental burrs that my denist will give me. I use them in a dremel tool for deepening buggered screw slots. Then I use an impact screwdriver to remove them.
        I also have an old screwdriver with no plastic handle on it. I stick this in the slot and give it a good whack with a hammer to help loosen it up.
        Russ
        I have tools I don't even know I own...

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        • #5
          <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by J. Randall:
          If by outer one you mean 2 screws in the same hole, with the outer used to jam it, then both would be right handed. I would try an impact screwdriver if it were mine. James </font>
          Oh man,the same idea,at the exact same time,from two different people on the same day we have just excluded ourselves from ever running for a seat in congress

          I just need one more tool,just one!

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          • #6
            That should have read (other). Gary P. Hansen
            In memory of Marine Engineer Paul Miller who gave his life for his country 7-19-2010 Helmand Province, Afghanistan. Freedom is not free, it is paid for with blood.

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            • #7
              Torker: That's a good idea about deepening the screw slot. Then may be I will use a cheater bar on the screw driver. Does anyone think heat would be OK? Gary P. Hansen
              In memory of Marine Engineer Paul Miller who gave his life for his country 7-19-2010 Helmand Province, Afghanistan. Freedom is not free, it is paid for with blood.

              Comment


              • #8
                If all else fails, take a flat washer with a hole about the same size as the screw head, lay washer down over top of the head and mig weld. Then place a nut on top of the washer and weld the bottom of the nut to the washer. Take a wrench and back it out. I have removed many broken bolts this way. Just be sure and weld the washer to the screw head only!

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                • #9
                  Gary:
                  Used to remove stuck scews from aircraft for the USAF/Air guard.
                  Clean dirt and paint from head. Get an apex bit to fit snug. Tap in if needed then use a speed handle with presure plate or chuck the bit in an old fashioned brace and bit. This will allow you to apply downward pressure to keep the bit from slipping out and alow you to put more torque on it than a screw diver. I very seldom used the drill and easy out. The real fun is the ones that someone broke off the easy out in.
                  Tin
                  Ad maiorem dei gloriam - Ad vitam paramus

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                  • #10
                    Russ's idea of impacting on the screw head to help loosen the threads has helped me out a couple times.
                    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                    • #11
                      What type of head did the screw have before it got all buggered up? What size are the threads? On allen head screws, I've had good luck beating a slightly larger torx driver into the head. The impacts from the hammer usually loosen the threads up a bit too. Heat will probably be OK, but use an acetelene torch so you can get a good small flame and concentrate the heat on the bolt head. Then when its nice and melted, kill the flame, drop the torch, and beat a torx driver in there before the metal freezes.

                      torx drivers don't seem to work for [email protected]%# in the bolts they were made for, but they seem to work good for taking out all the other bolts.

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                      • #12
                        Gary,

                        Not sure if this is directly relevant in your case, as your problem seems to be that you can't apply enough torque to the screw rather than the screwdriver is slipping out.

                        If you have the slipping problem, try this stuff:

                        http://www.alcoa.com/fastening_syste...6&prod_id=1102

                        We use it offshore, and it's truly magical. It looks like a suspension of grey crystals, and a drop on a screw head feels like you've welded the screwdriver to the screw.

                        Ian
                        All of the gear, no idea...

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                        • #13
                          drill a small pilot hole in it then take a left hand drill bit (or right hand sharpend left hand ) and hog it in hard, it will grab and screw right out.

                          [This message has been edited by tattoomike68 (edited 03-11-2006).]

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                          • #14
                            garyp -
                            I was curious, as I've noticed a similar problem on my lathe. Is yours by any chance a South Bend 9? (you may have said previously, but I don't think I could find the thread)

                            I ask because, if it weren't for the fact that I have a stuck screw, I may have done like CCWKen did.

                            http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Fo...ML/015971.html

                            I got stuck with the screws that hold the apron to the carriage on the SB9. I have recently aquired a (manual) impact screwdriver, but I haven't had the nerve to take a hammer to anything touching the lathe. I'm also going to check for some kind of jam-nut or other locking mechanism that I've missed.

                            Anyway, please post whatever resolution you wind up with - inquiring minds want to know.

                            -M
                            The curse of having precise measuring tools is being able to actually see how imperfect everything is.

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                            • #15
                              heat an appropriately sized steel rod red hot, hold it on the offending head to heat it.might work.
                              put screw driver blde in slot,use an appropriately sized chisel to gently move some of the metal back towards the slot. might work.


                              I often resort to the air hammer in desparation,but have to anylise what might bad things mighthappen care fully.
                              make a rod out of soft metal-brass or aluminium with a hole in one end to fit over the end of the hammers tip.
                              a few hits some times will loosen the most stubborn screw, a few too many and you will
                              destroy everything.

                              something about an air hammerwill loosen the most stubborn of stuck things.

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