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Well, you said it: "indicating the hole". With my adopter I can use an edge finder which I find easier and faster to use than an indicator.
Perhaps it is just me, but I hate trying to follow an indicator reading as it is being rotated 360 degrees. Mirrors, cell phone cameras, craned neck producing pain, etc. I do not have a coaxial indicator. With my electric edge indicator the bulb lights up when contact is made and that can be easily viewed from any single position around the rotary table.
I will concede that the indicator method may be a little more accurate.
Different jobs need different work holding. AND, have you ever tried to pickup a 10" RT? I dropped mine once due to the weight and my greasy hands. And that was with nothing attached to it. With my 6", four jaw chuck, it would be almost impossible for me to lift it. So, even if I always used the four jaw on the RT, I do not always have the RT mounted on my mill's table. I do not have a hoist in my shop so I have to remove it without the chuck.
I promised some photos in my post above. Here are some that I already had showing my centering device. I use this both for centering the RT under the quill and for locating parts on the table with a center hole that matches the OD of the adapter's protrusion. The bottom of that hole is drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for the removal tool to grab it.
If I can find the time, I will try to take a photo of my chuck centering with the adjustable square.
I like the centering setup with Quill, real simple no indicators needed my Tos Kurim 12" RT has a 35mm straight hole,I think bob s posted similar idea in #2 post.
How about a mechanism that includes a small wheel (a skateboard wheel may do) that is nudged up against the outside of the chuck while you rotate the rotab.
I never "indicate" my RT ( unless it is a supercritical job like >.0005 TIR)
I use the spindle to align my Rotary Table - NOT align the spindle to the RT ! - No dial indicator needed
I have 4 RT's and each has snug center plug bored to dowel pin sizes,(or a taper )
Put the Dowel in the hole ( for tapers, use a dowel with a squared (!) off end
Put the corresponding size collet in the spindle and lower the quill over the dowel (DO NOT lock the quill clamp)
Raise the knee after you tighten the collet and when the quill is fully retracted, the RT is centered
Now, clamp the RT to the table !
Rich
I never "indicate" my RT ( unless it is a supercritical job like >.0005 TIR)
I use the spindle to align my Rotary Table - NOT align the spindle to the RT ! - No dial indicator needed
I have 4 RT's and each has snug center plug bored to dowel pin sizes,(or a taper )
Put the Dowel in the hole ( for tapers, use a dowel with a squared (!) off end
Put the corresponding size collet in the spindle and lower the quill over the dowel (DO NOT lock the quill clamp)
Raise the knee after you tighten the collet and when the quill is fully retracted, the RT is centered
Now, clamp the RT to the table !
Rich
On another note, Do you know "IF" the hole in your Rotary Table is "True" ?
I had a 6 inch Rt that I got and the hole was off .002" ( .004" TIR)
Took the table off the base and checked the way surfaces-- Male/Female....they were good. (under .0005" )
Chucked the table face towards the 4 Jaw chuck and indicated the way surfaces to .000 (X and Y ) and then re- bored the hole larger to make it true
Rich
Check your table OD while doing this ...you may need to turn the OD ..carefully
Well, you said it: "indicating the hole". With my adopter I can use an edge finder which I find easier and faster to use than an indicator.
Perhaps it is just me, but I hate trying to follow an indicator reading as it is being rotated 360 degrees. Mirrors, cell phone cameras, craned neck producing pain, etc. I do not have a coaxial indicator. With my electric edge indicator the bulb lights up when contact is made and that can be easily viewed from any single position around the rotary table.
I will concede that the indicator method may be a little more accurate.
80 percent of my indicating is done on 3 sides, at the end I check the 4th, and its very close, if not good.... makes up it much easier..
Put the chuck on the table and stand three short pieces of 1" diameter bar around it, line them up in about five seconds and tighten the hold down bolts.
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