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Identifying DC Motor Controller

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  • Identifying DC Motor Controller

    Was curious if anyone can ID this contoller if it can stand alone or needs some additional componets,when plugged in lights come on but no DC output.I only got controller&motor from treadmill.

  • #2
    013674-DG is the alternative part number for the sjed08011dg, they're fitted to Horizon and Sears treadmills - they have a reputation built around failures and bursting into flames... Replacements are around 200 Local Currency Units plus tax.

    IF the motor's good, it'll be cheaper to get a KBIC controller which is known to work well for machine DC drives and a lot easier to interface - the majority of 2000-on treadmills will have fancy digital displays with buttons and touch pads for control, interfaces to the motor speed controller over proprietary serial connections...

    Dave H. (the other one)
    Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men.

    Holbrook Model C Number 13 lathe, Testa 2U universal mill, bikes and tools

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    • #3
      Thanks Dave,I'll look at KBIC .

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      • #4
        looks like it has a speed pot, so maybe try zeroing the pot, then turning it on and increasing the speed? If you haven't done so already. Keep the choke (transformer looking thing at the top) and the switches though.

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        • #5
          Matt I added the pot,all lights come on but no DC power.

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          • #6
            weird. Another idea - most treadmills have a "don't kill the user" magnetic key that the user attaches to themself somehow and will stop the motor if the user is thrown off the back. Might be one of the inputs for one of those small 2 pin plug sockets on the board. Not sure if they're normally open or closed, but you could always try bridging the connectors with a screwdriver. Not like you can screw it up any more than it is already, right?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by mattthemuppet View Post
              weird. Another idea - most treadmills have a "don't kill the user" magnetic key that the user attaches to themself somehow and will stop the motor if the user is thrown off the back. Might be one of the inputs for one of those small 2 pin plug sockets on the board. Not sure if they're normally open or closed, but you could always try bridging the connectors with a screwdriver. Not like you can screw it up any more than it is already, right?
              Thanks ,I will give that a try

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              • #8
                BTW, that is not a choke, it is a transformer that powers the control, per the info printed on it and almost readable.

                If the lights are on it is powered up, but there may be a signal it is not getting. A deadman switch is a good possibility. You could , before shorting, check the voltage across the connections MTM mentioned, just to be sure it is nothing big.
                1601

                Keep eye on ball.
                Hashim Khan

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                • #9
                  Agree, the transformer has 6 leads and also the PWM versions do not generally use/need a (motor) choke.
                  Max.

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                  • #10
                    sorry about the choke, didn't look closely and made an assumption..

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                    • #11
                      I think the terminals I had pot connected to were for incline motor,when I jumped 10&11 pin together on 12 pin row down incline light came on and could hear switch contacting.

                      The 2 caps on this one says uf 1200 200volts each and the round controller I'm currently operating drill press with is 1 uf 1500 200 volt cap,would extra cap
                      capacity give better controll?

                      MaxHeadRoom what part of Canada you located,I could mail you this thing if interested send me a PM you want.This is way over my head lol!

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                      • #12
                        On the several that I have cannibalized from treadmills, the deadman switch was always open unless the magic key was inserted, and was in series with the ac power switch. I just connected a jumper between the push-on contacts in place of the DM switch for an "always on" condition. Usually you'd expect a two wire cable running from incoming AC the board (or at the main switch) up to the control panel, so look for somewhere that that would logically connect
                        Last edited by mickeyf; 01-15-2020, 05:17 PM.
                        "A machinist's (WHAP!) best friend (WHAP! WHAP!) is his hammer. (WHAP!)" - Fred Tanner, foreman, Lunenburg Foundry and Engineering machine shop, circa 1979

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