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  • vpt
    replied
    This is a cheap auction sloppy well used vise. I abuse this vise daily. This was the first time I used it in this manner, but now that I know I think I'll be using it more in the press.

    I have all sorts of v-blocks and even press dies that I use in the press. But for certain things like the hooks in the pictures where I wanted a radius I think the vise will come in handy.

    Yes the X blocks on my press are cut steel. I as well remember HF having the cast X-blocks and people broke them a lot.

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  • Doozer
    replied
    I offer the obligatory, "You're welcome".

    -D

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  • A.K. Boomer
    replied
    Oh no way - that sounds like surgery, I thought he was just talking about duct taping it off to the side or something ...

    Poor Andy's thread really got hijacked in a bad way...

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  • mattthemuppet
    replied
    If you have a phallus big enough to fit one of those down then I doubt it needs any reinforcement. Brings tears to me eyes it does.

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  • Doozer
    replied
    Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
    M&M what r u making performance shifters or something?
    Phallus reinforcement inserts looks like to me.

    -D

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  • SLK001
    replied
    Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
    The vise is CI? Well, yes. But so are the X blocks it is resting on.
    They used to be on the Harbor Freight presses, but not any more. I have the identical 20 Ton press and the X blocks are steel (at least mine are). Verified by drilling keeper holes.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    A lot of vises have hardened steel jaws that I'd expect will leave score marks in the outer faces and even peel off shavings. But given even a slight radius and smoothed up the stock should simply slide into place with nothing more than some scuffs on the mill scale. Sort of a cross between your vise idea and Matt's round stock "jaws".
    .....
    Just put some smooth "corners" over the edges, similar to soft vise jaws, and there is no need to do any rounding off of the actual jaws.

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  • darryl
    replied
    My press has only a foot or so between the uprights. That means that I can use say 5 inch long metal pieces touching the uprights on each side to give me about two inches between the ends- 5-1/2 inch long pieces would give me 1 inch between ends, etc. This lets me build a gap of any width I need, and the gap is automatically centered under the ram. I'm using a hydraulic jack upside down, so I get to use the threaded hole to insert whatever pressing tool I've made up for some particular application.

    Jacks usually have an extensible part which sometimes can come right out, and sometimes can only extend so far. Mine only extended so far, so I turned it out to that point, then cut it off flush with the end of the ram. After that I managed to turn the captive part down to the bottom of the hole, leaving a clear threaded hole to accept the various shapes of upper die to suit the job. I had some acme rod around that was the right thread, so now I'm slowly building a kit of custom dies as the jobs require, and also a kit of custom pieces that create the gap required. Seems to be a pretty good system.

    My bottom plate can be secured to the uprights at 5 inch intervals, which works to allow any distance between the plate and the upper die- same as any press. Instead of using pins to secure the plate in position, I'm using bolts. This gives me a way to secure the plate without allowing the uprights to flex at all if there's side pressure being put against them. This works well also.

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  • BCRider
    replied
    A lot of vises have hardened steel jaws that I'd expect will leave score marks in the outer faces and even peel off shavings. But given even a slight radius and smoothed up the stock should simply slide into place with nothing more than some scuffs on the mill scale. Sort of a cross between your vise idea and Matt's round stock "jaws".

    This also isn't a lot different than the bending presses that use a sharpish "V" as the top die and a "U" channel with smoothed edges for the lower die and allow pressing to any angle up to around an acute 80'ish degrees. Same sort of idea but now you just have an adjustable version.

    If it's a decently "tight" vise I'm sure this sort of abuse will make it loosen up fairly quickly. I don't think I'd want to do this on a nicer vise that I like to use for drilling. But if it's a cheap wobbly old vise I'd lose no sleep whatsoever over it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Alciatore
    replied
    The vise is CI? Well, yes. But so are the X blocks it is resting on.

    Sounds like a contest as to which would break first to me.

    Looks like a good idea to me. I say go for it. I may look for an old drill press style vise for my press.



    Originally posted by SLK001 View Post
    Just remember that that vice is just cast iron. Too much pressure and SNAP - there goes another one!

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  • Franz©
    replied
    Anybody want to throw in on a pool when Fireball Tool finds this thread and comes out with his adjustable bending jig for presses? He's already got a list of potential buyers.

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  • 754
    replied
    Often its easier to weld 2 pieces of square tubing on a piece of 1/2 plate. Weld end one good, less weld on second if you want to change distance later.

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  • A.K. Boomer
    replied
    M&M what r u making performance shifters or something?

    Leave a comment:


  • Franz©
    replied
    Gonna be hell on the edges of the vise jaws, but it should work for occasional use under limited power.

    I strongly recommend wrapping a blanket around the vise and letting it hang loose to slow pieces departing the casting under force.

    Leave a comment:


  • mattthemuppet
    replied
    I made a small adjustable lower die for my presses, didn't take much time or effort. Just another way of doing things
    Click image for larger version

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