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Bridgeport series 1 ram adapter woes

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  • Fear
    replied
    I swear this thing was originally surf-blue from the factory and then someone painted it gray later-on. Where I pulled the oiler-pump off is the biggest chunk of the blue paint I could find on the surface. On the other side is a spot where it looks like someone sprayed aircraft stripper on it and then forgot about it where the paint lifted in a alligator skin-pattern. Then they painted over it. It only looks this way on the one side of the column and on the back side of the knee-screw pedestal. I sprayed it down with degreaser and started wiping her down and the gator-skin area started coming up in some nasty sticky goo, so I started scraping it down with a cheap plastic drywall knife and it just pealed off in globs. Sticky nasty globs. I took a wire wheel on a grinder and stripped those areas down to the casting surface and feathered in best I could with the wire brush to the smooth areas.

    I tore it down to clean all the way surfaces of the hardened oil/grease and inspected everything in the base. The X-screw and bushing are good, but the Y had a half turn of slop. I got it apart and found the cross yoke that holds the X and Y threads broken around the threaded bushing. I also found the bearing for the upward adjustment of the table is shot. It doesn't look like it comes out through the top, so it must press out the bottom. I need to make sure there isn't a hidden snap ring or something before I try to tap it out.

    I'm thinking of upgrading to ball screws, but RBS hasn't got back with me and Elrod's numbers don't seem to be any good since Servo bought them out. I saw in old forums where a retrofit would set you back $800, but who knows what it costs now.

    I need to resurface the table. Also the ways are a little scored. Not terrible, but not a new machine either. I'm wondering if I should even bother chipping it. Is that something I could do on my own, I need to look into it. Eventually I plan on putting at least an X-travel power feed on it and the ways need to glide nice and silky before I sink the money into a Servo or similar.

    The oil lines look like what we called "spaghetti-lines" that we use to plumb air shifters on 18-wheelers. I know I can get the line and ferrules cheap at truck supply stores. I'll order a filter for the Bijur pump when I order bearings, wipers, etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • clr2
    replied
    Originally posted by Doozer View Post
    Oh for fudge ripple sakes.
    The tee bolts are soft steel.
    The underside of the heads deform like cheese.
    Look in the picture and see.
    Instead of clamping, they create hoop stress and spread apart the circular slot.
    Happens all the time. Design flaw. Should have used a better bolt material
    or a larger tee head. Maybe it is hard for you guys to believe that the mighty
    Bridgeport made a design mistake. M-head tee bolts are even worse.
    So many armchair machine accident investigation experts here.

    -Doozer
    The biggest problem is people attempting to use them for purposes beyond what they were designed and intended for (a light universal flexible mill), and general knucklehead abuse (like people standing on the clamping bolts, using the worm gear to tilt the head 30' unsupported etc, climb-mill hogging material with 3/4" dia mill sticking out 4" with the quill extended...). If one wants to hog material all day, get an old Cincinnati.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ringo
    replied
    there is a machinery dealer in Macon, Ga. that has a bridgeport boneyard of parts.
    I been to his place couple times.
    scroll down this page.

    http://www.bibbmachinery.com/BridgeportCorner.html​​​​​​

    Leave a comment:


  • Fear
    replied
    Originally posted by david a View Post
    Hello Fear,
    Regarding spindle bearings and such, there's an on line manual "Bridgeport J-Head Series 1 Rebuild". I have the PDF I can send if you can't find it. the file is about 2300 KB
    HTH
    David
    That would be awesome. Mine is a 1.5hp Vari-speed but I'm sure the spindle stuff is the same.

    Leave a comment:


  • david a
    replied
    Hello Fear,
    Regarding spindle bearings and such, there's an on line manual "Bridgeport J-Head Series 1 Rebuild". I have the PDF I can send if you can't find it. the file is about 2300 KB
    HTH
    David

    Leave a comment:


  • Fear
    replied
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

    News to me, I'm looking at their website and it lists Canadian phone numbers and addresses. Parts are sourced globally, favoring North America. Assembly is done in North America, HQ is Windsor Ontario Canada. I would love to get one, but I need to win the lotto first.
    Their website just says they're made in US and Canada and names Ontario. http://www.standardmodernlathes.com/...rand.html#made

    Apparently it's US-made enough to be eligible for military contracts, which was assumably why they would set-up a US manufacturing facility. People say the Navy loves them, Big lathe features like an extremely rigid bed, high power and big spindle in a small package making them great for small workspaces in ships.

    Leave a comment:


  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    Originally posted by Fear View Post

    They moved to Pa (or was it Ny) . They are a US company now.
    News to me, I'm looking at their website and it lists Canadian phone numbers and addresses. Parts are sourced globally, favoring North America. Assembly is done in North America, HQ is Windsor Ontario Canada. I would love to get one, but I need to win the lotto first.

    Leave a comment:


  • old mart
    replied
    It sounds like a very interesting project, best of luck with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fear
    replied
    Originally posted by lynnl View Post

    The Standard Modern lathe is Canadian ...unless it has changed recently.
    They moved to Pa (or was it Ny) . They are a US company now.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fear
    replied
    Originally posted by wierdscience View Post
    Original B-port $375& free shipping-
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bridgeport-...AAAOSwN8hdsFGu
    Sweet!

    I seem to have looked at this and forgot about it. The seller had already threw a discounted offer at me. I went ahead and got it. I still need to order T-bolts and such. I'm not reusing the roached ones.
    Last edited by Fear; 01-27-2020, 01:23 PM. Reason: Update

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  • Fear
    replied
    I got it home last night. Definitely need the cabbage-head. I'd rather have a new Taiwan head than a vintage used USA just because I think this is not an accuracy-killer if I go import nut I'm sure any used ram-adapter will have the T-bolt wear and I'd rather start with something that tilts and snugs up smoothly. The bull gear sheared off it's down and two capscrews, but was still on the head side, stuck in old grease. I will re-use the bull gear unless I see a cherry one cheap. I still would like any answers to my original question; has anyone seen the quality of a new cabbage-head "ram-adapter" first hand?
    The X-axix has maybe 1/8 of slop and feels pretty smooth. The Y-axis has a 1/2-turn of slop and is a bear to turn. I forgot how much slop was in the knee, but it turned easily enough.He was right, the spindle had a little noise, but not bad. I figure I might put bearings in it while I have the head off. The paint doesn't look that bad, I'll know after I scrub her down some. The slide on the turret looks like it has a hidden coat of blue paint but the rest of the machine is a smooth light gray. No chipping visible in the ways.No holes from old DROs or anything. I don't think it ever had one. Got a very old electric X-feed but it looks like some dated plastic box from the 60's-70's. He said it popped the fuse the first time he used it so he took it off and never looked at it again until he handed it to me. Overall I think it's pretty cool for what I paid.
    Now is time for full clean-up and assessment of parts.

    Leave a comment:


  • lakeside53
    replied
    yep... often you can see piles of sad machines sitting out in the weather waiting forlornly for vultures before their trip to the smelter.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Metal Butcher
    replied
    Local machinery dealers might have some scrap units. We got a table and leadscrew for like $70 or something. Hell we ought to have gotten some more parts when we were there, like the quill feed trips. See if you have any dealers near you should you buy it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ohio Mike
    replied
    If anyone that that part laying around it would be H&W in Ft Wayne IN.

    https://www.machinerypartsdepot.com
    800-285-5271

    Leave a comment:


  • lakeside53
    replied
    Some of the BP clones (generically "VH4 style") are real nice ... 1000lb heavier, box ways, bigger knee. But... a "normal" BP and decent quality clones (some are garbage, others damn good) can do fine work too. All depends on the operator's understanding of reasonable limits.

    I'd like a Series 2 BP. Real heavy, and rare.
    Last edited by lakeside53; 01-26-2020, 07:43 PM.

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