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Sealant / Gasket thoughts (K&T Milwaukee K3)

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  • Sealant / Gasket thoughts (K&T Milwaukee K3)

    What do you use to seal cast to cast?

    The two surfaces have oil passages and I don't want to plug them up.. I know RTV is an option. It looks like something was on the surface but I could tell what.


    Background: I am pulling the transmission out of the Kearney & Trecker Milwaukee Model K No 3 follow me home.(pics). I couldn't talk to the past owner. Not knowing the condition I figure it is worth opening it up and looking before I destroy gears build 20 years before I was even thought of. ITs not like I can go down to the parts store to get replacements.


    I follow Steve Summers (youtube) and he used something out of a can with a brush on the lid??

  • #2
    A non-setting jointing compound (not silicone) is ideal, here in the UK it would be Hylomar red, Hermetite red, a thin coating (smear it on with a finger, it wipes off!) NOT a bead so it doesn't squeeze out into your oilways - I learned about them trying to stop old British bikes leaking - labour of Sisyphus, that, after ten or more bodgers have pried the cases apart with their biggest screwdrivers

    Dave H. (the other one)
    Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men.

    Holbrook Model C Number 13 lathe, Testa 2U universal mill, bikes and tools

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    • #3
      In the past, I've used large sheets of gasket cork or rolls of treated gasket paper and cut my own. RTV would work great, I'm sure, but I feel like it doesn't fit the aesthetic of the machine. That's just my own idiosyncrasy, though

      I have also used aviation gasket sealant, which is a non-hardening sealer which comes out of a brush-top can. Maybe that is what Steve Summers was using?? It works well for machined surfaces. If the surface is pretty irregular, then something like RTV or cork (or cork and aviation sealant) work best. I think I remember hearing that aviation gasket sealer was supposed to be safe for things like transmissions, carburetors, etc. because there was low risk of tiny bits coming off and fouling up passages? A quick Google search did not provide any confirmation of this, though.

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      • #4
        anerobic sealant like locktite will work.https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...ctite_510.html I use this 518 on transfer cases and it holds up.

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        • #5
          This stuff
          https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8006...J2VRW4TM9T0M6G

          Permatex hi-tack gasket sealant, number 80062 in the 4-oz can with the brush. Used to be sold as "Gaska-cinch" back in the 60's and 70's. I used it on my welder when I rebuilt the engine, the stuff works great. There is not a single drip or leak anywhere on that thing and its 65 yrs old.

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          • #6
            Used a lot of loctite 515 form a gasket (anarobic). Good for 15 psi on 30" machined flanges. Must be clean and free of oil. Use a degreaser. Smear to thin coat around oil passages.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
              This stuff
              https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8006...J2VRW4TM9T0M6G

              Permatex hi-tack gasket sealant, number 80062 in the 4-oz can with the brush. Used to be sold as "Gaska-cinch" back in the 60's and 70's. I used it on my welder when I rebuilt the engine, the stuff works great. There is not a single drip or leak anywhere on that thing and its 65 yrs old.
              I put many a small block Chevy together with that stuff back in the 60's and 70's. No leaks on oil pan, or timing cover. The can was blue back then.
              “I know lots of people who are educated far beyond their intelligence”

              Lewis Grizzard

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              • #8
                Another vote here for Hylomar. I used it to stop the leaks on my BSA. It's readily available in the US.

                -js
                There are no stupid questions. But there are lots of stupid answers. This is the internet.

                Location: SF Bay Area

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                • #9
                  I use hylomar blue on lots of stuff, including my 2k when it went back together. It doesn't set so you don't have to use prybars/wedges to get the machine apart again like with rtv. I didn't know they made a red version

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                  • #10
                    I can not believe how nice this is to work on. Everything that you would have to pry on has bump/push screws installed and ready to help take things apart. I drain the gearbox oil. It looked new but every now and then a black slug slide out.
                    I pulled the pick up and the screen was clean.
                    I also wiped out the sump looking for signs of Mr. Goober using it. The only solid found looked like a cast iron rain drop. The bottom of the sump had a lot of black old oil. Wiped it out pretty good.
                    The book says to flush with kerosene or gas for 5 minutes. Not sure if I will have to. I plan on spaying everything down inside with kerosene. Letting air out and then putting oil in. Thoughts?? The book I found for it calls for 65 weight.

                    This has a filter that is flat plates and stationaries plates you turn to clean. Old teck! Pulled that and made a mess as it was full of oil. It had some flakes of metal but not bad for a 70 year old.

                    I'll start looking for Hylomar when take this oil in. It had about 3 gallons of oil and I have an other 5 gallon from the Ford Transmission I just rebuilt. I am out of buckets.

                    I'll post photos later tonight.

                    Thanks for the inputs.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Click image for larger version

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                      The inside looks so good



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                      I made the mistake and pulled the filter before I drained the sump. What a mess.


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                      I am still cleaning.

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                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        Yep I would spray it all out with kerosene at least. It looks real good in there. If you run it a few minutes with the kero, it will also flush out the oil lines and any gunk that maybe in there.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by outlawspeeder View Post
                          What do you use to seal cast to cast?

                          The two surfaces have oil passages and I don't want to plug them up..
                          Cast to cast to cast. (anyone figure that head gasket might win some metal, they pay shipping.
                          Oh, Tip is I have posted most of the rebuild just right here.

                          Oh? And if you know the driver more free 4140ph, you pay shipping. I limit it as I need too until you folks clear out 1700lbs.

                          Just spif balling. I dont need this stuff anymore. Just trying to figure out a diff way to help those that need smalls for free.

                          Singles Idiots!! What? You think I am Mad as The Hatter cause I was going to give metal away?

                          Talk to JL if you need some. He is my go between LOL

                          No... He made a tool from some and would be better as to the how it cuts . JR
                          My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

                          https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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                          • #14
                            Another vote for Hylomar.
                            I used blue, never knew they made a red.

                            -D
                            DZER

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by outlawspeeder View Post
                              I can not believe how nice this is to work on. Everything that you would have to pry on has bump/push screws installed and ready to help take things apart.
                              Yeah... working on machine tools has destroyed my patience for working on rusty old cars / trucks! That looks beautiful. PM your address and I'll put a flat rate box in the mail with a couple of CAT50 tool holders. Nothing special, just a couple of extras I probably don't need.

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