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Question on machining tool slot on AXA blanks

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  • #46
    Originally posted by Joel View Post
    This thread got me to start parkerizing:

    The chemical is cheap and easy to find and it is super fast and easy. I just use a hotplate and pans obtained from Goodwill. haven't gotten a bad result yet.
    That thread has some good info, but also makes the process seem more complicated and involved than it needs to be. I know some guys are super cautious about doing any metal work in the kitchen, but this is about as hazardous as cooking a pot of noodles (and lower temp too), and is safe to do on the stove top if that's all you have. Do use a dedicated pan for it though; the solution will leave deposits on the pan that won't come off. A simple kitchen thermometer is the right temperature range too; again use a dedicated thermometer but it doesn't have to be anything special as the temps are lower than normal cooking.

    Like you said, a hot plate and pans from Goodwill or Ross are good options that work well; I don't see any need for special burners other than maybe for very long parts where you're trying to maintain even temps. Even with that though, when I parkerize rifle barrels I use a long stainless tray I made and just lay it across two stove burners; the solution needs to be stirred anyway so the temperatures stay even.

    One note on temps - I have found better/darker results at slightly lower temp than the directions say. Parkerizing is supposed to be done at 175-185° F (per the directions in my kit) but I get better results if I limit the temp to about 160° F. Whenever I've had bad results with Parkerizing, it's been because of either poor degreasing, or the temp is too high.
    I also get better results if the part is cold when I put it in, rather than warm. Since I wash the parts with degreaser (I use Purple Power) right before they go in the solution, I just finish the rinse with cold water and then set the part into the 160° bath. Remember to roll the part over frequently if it's sitting on the bottom of the pan, so it doesn't get any bare spots.

    Also don't use glass bead for surface prep; if they are really glass beads and not ground glass, the resulting surface texture is wrong for parkerizing, and results in a light gray finish that is not very durable. Some media sold as glass bead is really ground glass though (Harbor Freight media for sure) and that leaves a texture similar to aluminum oxide that works OK. If the media rolls easily between your fingers like tiny bearings, it's glass bead; if it feels like sand then it's ground glass.

    Finally - don't pour out the solution when you're done, just replenish the evaporated water with distilled water and store it. It's re-usable many times and will last for years.
    Last edited by Yondering; 02-13-2020, 08:21 PM.


    • #47
      For visual reference - here are pictures of some parts I have Parkerized at home (the grey items in the pictures). Apologies to those who dislike firearms; these pics are just what I had available.

      As you can see in the second picture the finish does wear eventually, but it will handle a lot of abuse and is somewhat self-lubricating.


      • #48
        very impressive Yondering, looks factory.