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Annular Cutter Purchase - Need Education

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  • #16
    Been using them forever.

    As others have mentioned the shank is not Weldon, the flats don't line up with a Weldon holder unless you shorten the end of the holder (or grind new flats on the cutter).

    Never seen any with a spring ejector, I thought the pin was intended to center the cutter on a punch mark.

    I was lucky to find a Hougen 1" arbor with coolant injector assembly at a dealer close out sale. Hook the mill's coolant hose to the rotating ring on the arbor. We never run without coolant which is injected inside the cutter.

    KBC had some Polish made annular cutters at about half the price of domestic ones. Not quite as good as domestic, but if you're careful to program feeds and speeds correctly on the CNC they last a long time.

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    • #17
      I made a very nice chro-moly R8 adaptor, aluminium coolant banjo that rides on o rings on the adaptor, and circlips to prevent up and down movement.
      be advised , you can push pretty hard with coolant , but occasionally they can seize and grenade..
      I can remember at time 2 mills going doing the same hole on each, completing to see who can do the most.
      1 inch depth are cheap, 2 inch a lot more, 3 inch quite high price.l
      they can be used on a dripp press , but have to be started carefully, once the circle starts, they self center. With 2 hp it's a pretty hard push to do 1 15/16 holes in steel , so I think on a medium drill press 1 1/4 should be doable.

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      • #18
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ID:	1857297 As others have mentioned 3/4" Weldon holder works fine with some mods,machining nose down to proper depth and altering set Screw by machining or grinding down so flat on cutters can be left alone.I measured 6 different brands and shank length on cutters were 0.835 to 0.935,one set screw is sufficient as Karnash brand left side in pic has universal shank to accept Quick In or 1 flat for standard set Screw setup.The shorter 1-1/6" on right is Hougan Copper Head which is Carbide,taller one is 1-1/4" 3" depth is also Hougan.When doing just a couple holes I don't bother with coolant through or pin but have to dig slug out which can be a pain.When have multiple holes I allways use the ejector pin and coolant through depending on Machine.

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        • #19
          Would like to add, I've never used a mag drill that had coolant, I've always squirted oil from a bottle using HSS bits. Worked just fine, I spent a summer years ago drilling *thousands* of 5/8 holes that way thru the flanges on 10" W beams (5/8 thk). for a bag house on a boiler stack. That bit lasted all summer. The owner of that shop was a notorious cheapskate and mandated that all tooling would be resharpened *after* the job. An old paintbrush is good to have for the shavings, along with a needle nose pliers... consider that essential for the swarf from an annular cutter.
          25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
            I have some parts that need a nice hole in 1/8" +/- steel, unknown alloy, but it saws, files, and drills OK. I could probably use some circle saws that I have, but I am curious about annular cutters. They seem to make neater and more accurate holes and this seems like a good chance to get acquainted with them. I would be using them on either my 20" drill press or mill.

            I am looking at McMaster and others and it seems like there are the cutters themselves, pilot pins, and arbors. And each of these is priced individually. I am not just concerned over the price here: individually priced items seem to indicate that some of them may not always be needed. So I have questions.

            First, are all three of these items (cutter, pilot pin, and arbor) all needed in every application? I know the cutter is needed but what about the pilot pin and arbor?

            They say the pilot pin also ejects the slug. How does that work? Is it spring loaded? Or do I need an additional spring? Or is there some other thing going on here? Is this something that is intended to allow their use in hand held drills?

            It looks like some of the cutters have a round shank with Weldon flats for set screws. So they could be mounted in milling cutter holders? If I get and use an R8 holder in my mill, would I need an arbor? When is the arbor used? In a drill press or magnetic drill?

            Those round shanks look rather short. But could they be mounted in a collet? Is there enough there for a good grip?

            McMaster does not give the brand names for their products but the quality is usually good. MSC seems to have a lot of Hougen cutters and accessories: is that a good brand?

            I need a good head start with these cutters.
            Collets work fine in my experience, at least for the smaller ones. I've never had the pins so I can't tell you there. Just keep pliers handy if you're running without pins to eject the slug.

            Originally posted by JRouche View Post

            Looks like weldon but probably a 5/8" shank. Adapters are avail.

            P.S. The 5/8" adapters are available, make yer own (and can I have one also please) . JR
            I've only ever seen 3/4" and 1.25". The royersford runs the big ones pretty well, but it's a bit heavier than your average 20" DP, so maybe best to stick to the mill.
            21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
            1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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            • #21
              Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

              Collets work fine in my experience, at least for the smaller ones. I've never had the pins so I can't tell you there. Just keep pliers handy if you're running without pins to eject the slug.
              I've only ever seen 3/4" and 1.25". The royersford runs the big ones pretty well, but it's a bit heavier than your average 20" DP, so maybe best to stick to the mill.
              Amen, stick to the mill. I've never seen a drill press with enough torque unless its a big radial. And again, a pair of needlenose pliers and a cheap paintbrush, and some cutting oil and you're good to go. Make *sure* you have a rigid, solid and tight setup. No flex or give in it anywhere.
              25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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              • #22
                [QUOTE=nickel-city-fab;n1857161]Hougen is one of the best brands, used to have them exclusively at work (glad it wasn't my budget...) Everything I saw was 3/4 shank, no springs in the pins. Dunno if it depends on the manufacturer or what.

                Yes, those bits eat right!! JR

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

                  Collets work fine in my experience, at least for the smaller ones. I've never had the pins so I can't tell you there. Just keep pliers handy if you're running without pins to eject the slug.



                  I've only ever seen 3/4" and 1.25". The royersford runs the big ones pretty well, but it's a bit heavier than your average 20" DP, so maybe best to stick to the mill.
                  I do like the mill for these. I dont want to break them.\

                  The mag drill I have eats at will. It eats 3" plate like butter. JR

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