Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Need advice on old drill press repair..

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Need advice on old drill press repair..

    Hi all.. Long time no type....

    I have an old Leland Gifford HS sensitive DP from late 1800's or early 1900's and the taper is all messed up and wont hold the chuck anymore. Its part of the whole spindle that runs through everything and replacing it would be expensive.

    My first thought is to have someone turn down the taper and thread it so that a chuck can be screwed on? Thoughts?

    I no longer have my lathe or mill... for the 3rd time in my life I have sold all my machines and most of the associated tooling. I kept my welders, 72" belt grinder and my drill press, but thats about it.

  • #2
    Remove the spindle and have the taper reground.

    Comment


    • #3
      I take it that it's a male taper.

      Could you have the spindle bored out for a #2MT? That way you could use a Morse Taper to Jacobs Taper drill chuck arbor and you wouldn't be limited to screw-on chucks.
      Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

      Comment


      • #4
        Its male and MT 3. Could go smaller. Its currently undersized. Click image for larger version

Name:	DP.jpg
Views:	983
Size:	1.80 MB
ID:	1859626

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by cuemaker View Post
          Its male and MT 3. Could go smaller. Its currently undersized.
          Are you certain about the taper? That would be a JT taper if the chuck mounts directly to the stub.

          Comment


          • #6
            Do you have some quite flat stones or very fine files? Run those over, get the burrs off. Clean everything very well and it should stick. Your taper doesn't look that damaged.
            21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
            1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
              Do you have some quite flat stones or very fine files? Run those over, get the burrs off. Clean everything very well and it should stick. Your taper doesn't look that damaged.
              What he said. You'd be amazed what you can accomplish with an oil stone.
              25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

              Comment


              • #8
                I would NOT use a stone. While working on dings on something round, it is too easy to make a flat, and you do not really know when you are done.

                I would get a piece of an old file, and rub it on a sharpening stone until the file teeth all have shiny flats on them. Now you have a "burr file".

                Run THAT on the taper, but only along the axis, do not run it "around" the taper as if you were filing to make something round.. DO move to different spots around the taper, so you caover all of it.

                The "burr file" will not cut a flat surface, as an ordinary file may, but it will cut anything that sticks up. By going lengthwise along the axis, you will go along the straight part of the taper, and have a low probability of damaging it.

                When it has done it's work, you can tell, because it will not feel as if it is "catching" on anything.
                2730

                Keep eye on ball.
                Hashim Khan

                Everything not impossible is compulsory

                Comment


                • #9
                  so what about using loctite (638) and adjust the chuck for runout in the prozess of gluing? it can be released with heat if really needed. well, does the taper have runnout? if not, its also possible to use the female counterpart with a diamond slurry to get the bearing right. you can correct runout by this method, but not on a drill press i guess.
                  Last edited by dian; 03-05-2020, 02:45 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
                    I would NOT use a stone. While working on dings on something round, it is too easy to make a flat, and you do not really know when you are done.

                    I would get a piece of an old file, and rub it on a sharpening stone until the file teeth all have shiny flats on them. Now you have a "burr file".

                    Run THAT on the taper, but only along the axis, do not run it "around" the taper as if you were filing to make something round.. DO move to different spots around the taper, so you caover all of it.

                    The "burr file" will not cut a flat surface, as an ordinary file may, but it will cut anything that sticks up. By going lengthwise along the axis, you will go along the straight part of the taper, and have a low probability of damaging it.

                    When it has done it's work, you can tell, because it will not feel as if it is "catching" on anything.
                    Suit yourself. I've filed/stoned round surfaces plenty enough to be confident I won't screw it up. I do wish I had some precision ground flat stones though.
                    21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                    1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Wait a sec, did you say Morse Taper 3...as in you can drive out the piece ? Is so it's av25 dollar piece, and described as MT 3 to JT 33 arbor. ...or similar.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Look at the spindle on that thing. Looks like about 25mm. No way it's an mt3.
                        21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                        1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          This is why you keep a lathe around. Sorry to hear you had to sell your tools off again

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hi all.. its much closer to a 3JT. Wide end is 1.1185 inches. Narrow end is .80895 and length is 1.1185 and upon some looking, I cant even find a chuck that is 3JT. I am not sure what the chuck is that I have. The chuck is about .809 at the wide. Cant measure bottom end.

                            It seems best to work with what I have. I am going to check runnout as it was a problem for me in the past..but didnt mind since I was drill bigger holes usually

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by cuemaker View Post
                              Looking, I cant even find a chuck that is 3JT. I am not sure what the chuck is that I have. The chuck is about .809 at the wide.
                              Lot of chucks that are 3JT: 14N 16N 36KD etc.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X