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More grip when pinching parts between revolving centre and faceplate.

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  • Paul Alciatore
    replied
    I am not so sure about that. I have a face plate with a disk of plywood on it with double sided tape. I tried to take it off but I had to go to my second face plate.

    I now have a roll of removable double sided tape. Perhaps that would be better. But it's very existence implies that the original double sided tape may have been too strong in some cases.



    Originally posted by Ian B View Post
    Isn't that what double sided sticky tape was designed for?

    Ian

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  • BCRider
    replied
    Originally posted by Galaxie View Post

    I usually avoid writing paper as it seems to get slipperier the harder it's clamped. Is that due to the chalk and/or clay content? Kraft paper seems to work well even if it gets oily.
    Glossy papers would certainly do that. Or those that are overly smooth and "posh" for letters. But the cheap stuff should be free from most issues.

    Perhaps try a sheet of cheap buff(unbleached) or yellow notepad paper? Pretty sure from how felt point markers bleed on that stuff that there's no sizing or filler clays.

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  • paul463
    replied
    How about some spray Plastidip? It's pretty rubbery and will peel right off when your done.

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  • Galaxie
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob La Londe View Post
    Even a sheet of fairly modern printer or copier paper between two flat surfaces can reduce slip significantly. Its cheap and pretty consistent thickness.
    I usually avoid writing paper as it seems to get slipperier the harder it's clamped. Is that due to the chalk and/or clay content? Kraft paper seems to work well even if it gets oily.

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  • BCRider
    replied
    The fact that the paint increased the friction would seem to be the point here. It becomes an option along with all the other suggestions. Although I tend to prefer the easy to do slip of kraft paper idea just because I don't need to peel anything away later on.

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  • David Powell
    replied
    What ever you do DO NOT think you can make a firm drive by drilling one hole in the workpiece and putting a bolt through one hole in your faceplate. If there is a jam up then the workpiece becomes a sort of cam and hauls the centre hole off centre with a lot of force. A Skoda number 3 Morse taper revolving centre in a 10 hp lathe made a hell of a crack when I broke it !!!
    Regards David Powell.

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  • gellfex
    replied
    Putting a washer flanged "clampdown" nut or other pressure spreading block between the work and the live center helps a lot too, and works well when you can't drill a center hole.

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  • Bob La Londe
    replied

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  • Bob La Londe
    replied
    Even a sheet of fairly modern printer or copier paper between two flat surfaces can reduce slip significantly. Its cheap and pretty consistent thickness.

    Leave a comment:


  • CCWKen
    replied
    Originally posted by Ian B View Post
    Isn't that what double sided sticky tape was designed for?

    Ian
    I've used that in the past for thin aluminum. I have double sided cellophane tape. I wonder if it's still good? I'll have to find it again. I need to strip the coating off a piece of an old street sign. That is some tough aluminum. The sticky reflective stuff is just as tough.

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  • metalmagpie
    replied
    Kraft paper.

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  • David Powell
    replied
    Using sand or emerycloth between the faceplate and the work goes quite well until the first slip, then the paper sometimes tears and some leaves, or/ and it gouges the face of the workpiece, that is no matter if it is a rough or unfinished piece , but annoying if it is a finished good quality one.
    I am not very competent with computers but will get some photos posted once the job is finished. The roller was initially built as a working toy in the 1970s, had a new boiler in 2000 and only now is getting the improvements it deserves.
    regards David Powell.

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  • Ian B
    replied
    Isn't that what double sided sticky tape was designed for?

    Ian

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  • Tungsten dipper
    replied
    Please post some pictures of the steam roller when you get it done.

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  • genea
    replied
    Originally posted by 754 View Post
    Put a peel and stick sandpaper on it.
    That should work well.

    To keep it from rotating I used contact cement to glue some fine grit sandpaper to the back of a drywall square I was using as a straight edge. It not only eliminated the rotation problem but it needed a lot less force to do so.

    I left the sandpaper on the square for many years but if you do need to get it off contact cement can be difficult to remove. OTOH peel and stick sandpaper should come loose with a little heat.
    Last edited by genea; 03-17-2020, 04:22 AM.

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