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Slitting saw help - making shaft clamps

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  • #16
    754, I've seen that style some years back at some source. It's a very slick idea. But as shown in the picture you posted it looks like it would be one thread at a time since the whole unit is too big to turn around the threads on the shaft and thus act as a fully adjustable nut. And that's a shame too since it would be a nice bit of kit to use otherwise.

    The other style that I saw in some magazine or other was THIS STYLE. Push the button and it slides up and down the threaded shaft smoothly. Let the button go and it engages the thread and becomes micro adjustable. And even with the button out it should be able to be micro adjustable in a fairly close quarters manner of setup.
    Chilliwack BC, Canada


    • #17
      I got all inspired and went schmoozing around YT and found THIS VIDEO on making a micro adjust push button stop nut that goes on over a threaded rod as the quill depth shaft. I think I'd leave the upper and lower parts of the main slider that stick up past the button a bit bigger and knurl them to make doing micro adjustments a bit more positive. But that's a pretty simple mod. And clearly the whole thing is doable in most home shops. And a lot lower stick out so it should work with a pretty good variety of drill presses and milling machines.
      Chilliwack BC, Canada


      • #18
        Originally posted by 754 View Post
        Click image for larger version Name:	Screenshot_2020-03-25-13-26-42.png Views:	0 Size:	144.1 KB ID:	1863931Click image for larger version Name:	Screenshot_2020-03-25-13-26-42.png Views:	0 Size:	144.1 KB ID:	1863932 For around 20 bux you can get a quick release quill stop.. finger operated no slip..squeeze knurlknobs together to release.
        do these exist for metric threads? all seem to be for a bridgeport. you can make these "micro adjustable" by turning the threaded rod, btw.


        • #19
          754 - that style of quill stop looks very neat (and cheap £6 in uk)

          dian - just been looking myself wondering if they exist for the M12 fine thread of my 626 import, but it does seem to be only 1/2-20 imperial threads which I guess was what bridgeport used. On my mill the threaded rod is fixed.

          I was going for a plain shaft (completed) to avoid thread altogether, the idea being insert a suitable width object (drill or gauge block) upto the quill stop and then slide/lock the collar on the shaft. I think Stefan G showed such an arrangement in one of his videos.


          • #20
            If your pitch is 1.25 mm it may work


            • #21
              Originally posted by BCRider View Post
              I got all inspired and went schmoozing around YT and found THIS VIDEO on making a micro adjust push button stop nut that goes on over a threaded rod as the quill depth shaft. ...
              That is nice! So simple - one of those "why didn't I think of that?" things.

              Be sure to "Like" to give him some credit.


              • #22
                For that pinch clamp style there's a video by MrPete222 where he drills out and re-threads the pinch style commercially bought quill stops to a bigger thread to fit a couple of his drill presses. But if your metric thread is the same size or smaller then I think you're rather pooched on that option. Although from looking at the Mr Pete video it looks like the clamp style simply uses two blocks of metal with a captured hinge pin and a spring made from sheet stock that is held on by the two screw in toggle handles. So perhaps not overly difficult to make a new one from scratch.

                But that pushbutton style is only two parts and a lot less operations than making Bport style clamp stop. And on top of that the pushbutton style is automatically micro adjustable to boot.
                Chilliwack BC, Canada


                • #23
                  Originally posted by ATW View Post
                  I'm trying to make some shaft clamps like this:
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                  (this example was already destined for the "practice" bin due to being a bit keen counter boring the pocket for the clamp screw).

                  Before slitting the clamp is the desired fit onto the shaft, but despite the wisdom of the internet suggesting I have a 50/50 chance of the bore opening/closing when slitting the slot Mr Murphy and Mr Sod are both frequent visitors to the shop so I'm running at 100% rate of it closing.

                  Is there anything I can do to stack the odds to it opening the bore?

                  Is it acceptable practice to clamp a shim in the slot and re-bore/ream the bore to get back to the desired diameter?


                  Slitting the finished part is in effect a stress relief. Your options are stress relieve the material first or machine close to finish size, slit to stress relieve, then bore to size. Anything else is a gamble.


                  • #24
                    Attempt two:
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                    I added a relief opposite the slot, in the hope it would make it easier to spring open should it close again.

                    It did close slightly again, subjectively I'd say less, but with the relief light application of a screwdriver to the slot opened it up nicely.

                    And in action:
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                    Just needs a small handle making to replace the socket head screw.

                    Thanks for all the input guys.


                    • #25
                      My mill has the same setup. I didn't like it at all for the same reason. You've given me some ideas on how I might just do the same thing. But I'd like to set it up so that I can do either a depth stop like you show or swap the depth stop bits over to a dial gauge as a finer travel indicator. The index wheel on the head not being all that repeatable it seems.
                      Chilliwack BC, Canada


                      • #26
                        BCRider, found the video from Stefan G which first gave me the inspiration for using a shaft clamp, although a different mill it was the same principle, he incorporated a dial gauge into the clamp:



                        • #27
                          I love it! Thanks for the link. Gotta go plan now...
                          Chilliwack BC, Canada


                          • #28
                            A safe and clever way to open the slot. Stick a washer or flat bar in the slit. Now run the bolt in from the back side against the washer and it opens right up.. essentially a jacking screw..
                            Last edited by 754; 03-29-2020, 02:13 PM.


                            • #29
                              ATW, between you and Stefan I've got a new project. But it's not a quick and easy one like you or Stefan managed.

                              We seem to have the same mill as the front of my head looks just like yours. This is including that moving black block, the triangular ears top and bottom and the casting details around the edges of your picture. And if your stop collar screw had the same super fine threads as mind then I applaud your decision to machine them off. It's like it's 10-0.5mm it was so fine a thread ! ! ! !

                              It's complicated by the fact that I want to include a 0-1" dial gauge as well as the stop collar. I found out early on that the clutch that engages the quill hand wheel has a lot of lost movement in it and that the actual movement compared to the indicated movement on the hand wheel index don't always jive. It's not much... usually... But if you're trying to work to a thou and find that the hand wheel drive combined with the rack and pinion is missing or adding .003 or so it tends to make us say bad words. So for the more critical stuff I might want to do here and there I want to include a dial gauge so I don't need to trust the quill index dial.

                              I'm just not sure of exactly how I want to incorporate it all. But I've got some ideas.
                              Chilliwack BC, Canada


                              • #30
                                754 - of course thats the way to do it - sometimes I just need the obvious pointing out.

                                BCRider -Its one of the 626 import mills (Warco VMC here in the UK), the thread was M12x1. I'll have to check the quill fine feed hand wheel, its not something I've noticed.

                                The biggest pain I have found with the fine feed dial is that it is 2.5mm per turn where all the other dials are 3.0mm/turn - the odd number and the difference from the others has turned the air blue on occasion. My plan for avoiding the handle dials is a cheapo digital calliper type scale, however its all quite tight up there around the front of the quill because the control switches are mounted off the front of the belt cover right above the quill stop area. I keep offering up the scale to the mill and thinking hmm ... the light bulb is bound to come on eventually.