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  • broaches

    I am a plumber by trade.Another plumber asked if I could help him out. here in S Africa all our houses are brick.He installed four shower mixers too deep into the wall.Once it was tiled he found out that the trim set wouldnt fit.He would have to either chop it out and retile or try extend the handles. Fortunately its just the diverter handle that needs to be extended.It looks like this but this one is done at the right depth
    .
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  • #2
    The diverter looks like this,
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    • #3
      I needed to make an extension for the sleeve as well as for the spindle.I dont have dies so I single pointed the extension.The spindle extension was a different story and much more complicated
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      • #4
        This is what my broaches look like. I cant draw so I do it by trial and error.
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        • #5
          It worked for my job and fitted well but is not perfect. I would like to know how these broaches would be made. They are quite small,the diameter being only 7,6mm.How would this broach actually look like and how would it be set up? For the male broach I had to make a stripper plate because its really hard to take it out. For the female broach I just press it out from the opposite direction.

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          • #6
            The final product looks like this. It just extends everything by 15mm.I did this on my lathe using it as a slotter. How would this normally be made.?
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            • #7
              with a pull broach. The broach would be about 12 to 18 in long. The little end would be placed in the product hole then in a hydraulic broach and pulled through . The small end of broach has a nob on it to place into a latch box on the end of the ram. A good operator could run 5000 to 7000 pcs. per 8 hr shift.

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              • #8
                If the broach is 18 inch long you would not be able to do the female part as it is only 15mm deep. Unless one makes a female part and seperate male part and locktite them together.

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                • #9
                  Plunger,

                  You've done a good job managing to produce those adapters. Blind holes, as you have in one end are a particular challenge. For internal gears in a blind hole it would ordinarily be done with a gear shaper that generates the correct form using a smaller tool that can be rotated within the minor diameter.

                  Broaching, which produces the complete profile in one pass uses a tool where successive teeth shave off a few more thousands until the last ones are cutting to full depth. This still requires clearance on the back side. In the case of your adapters you would ALMOST be able to do this with a counterbore deeper in the body of the adapter and a multitooth broach. Given your situation I think you did it the only way possible.
                  .
                  "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TGTool View Post
                    Plunger,

                    You've done a good job managing to produce those adapters. Blind holes, as you have in one end are a particular challenge. For internal gears in a blind hole it would ordinarily be done with a gear shaper that generates the correct form using a smaller tool that can be rotated within the minor diameter.

                    Broaching, which produces the complete profile in one pass uses a tool where successive teeth shave off a few more thousands until the last ones are cutting to full depth. This still requires clearance on the back side. In the case of your adapters you would ALMOST be able to do this with a counterbore deeper in the body of the adapter and a multitooth broach. Given your situation I think you did it the only way possible.
                    I find it very hard to replicate the actual original broached part because its only 7,6 mm on the major diameter. It has 20 splines and I have no idea what the angle on them really is. I think this would have to be thrown into some kind of shadowgraph to truelly be able to copy it. I dont even know what you would call this type of spline.Serrated ? perhaps.This is a common method in my country of holding tap handles on. This is an aussie product so it looks like we have something in common in terms of tap (faucet ) handles.Luckily it is only in brass but I am suprised how much press force it requires to actually broach it. Its also a mother getting the broach to come out. My female part is quite loose but with the bolt it tightens up quite well . To turn the diverter requires little rotational force so I am lucky with that.
                    I would love to know how a proffesional broaching company would approach this. If I could but this as a rotary broach I would be pretty chuffed. You would almost think its a standerd off the shelf type broach for a broaching company.

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                    • #11
                      This is a bit late in your process but my first thought is to cut the existing parts and silver solder extensions in them, leaving the ends in tact.

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                      • #12
                        I would like to resurrect this thread. As you can see in the pictures I needed to make an internal and external broach for making extensions for a shower faucet. I made these broaches a few years back and it was a lot of hard work. The way I did it was to make an indexing wheel out of a hundred tooth gear which i inserted into the back of my lathes through spindle. Basically so I could index my lathe to make the 20 splines in silver steel.
                        I basically used my lathe as a shaper and used a piece of hss and just used the rack.
                        I would like to make more of these but would like to get professionally made broaches. How could these broaches be made .Do you think they could be spark eroded into a piece of hss or laser cut into guage plate. Or could they perhaps be wire cut. The dimensions are small .The OD of the spindle is only 7,6mm and there are twenty splines on them. Fortunately it only needs to work in brass . Volumes will be low so I cant go throw thousands of dollars into it. Also remember the extension is a blind hole which complicates things. I have been asked to make some for a plumbing shop.This is what it looks like .The one on the right has an internal spline in it as well and is what i will use to extend the faucet spindle.
                        . Click image for larger version

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                        Last edited by plunger; 08-29-2021, 11:40 AM.

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                        • #13
                          I would use a rotary broach for the internal spline (you can make your own) and a straight knurl for the external spline. The knurling wheels might take a bit of development, but once you got it right, making parts would be pretty easy.
                          Kansas City area

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                          • #14
                            What toolguy said. You could do it with drill rod or silver steel, and harden in oil.
                            25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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