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Cleaning off dried up WD40

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  • Corbettprime
    replied
    Gonna have to try Ed's Red as a cutting fluid on aluminum. Love it as a penetrating oil.

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  • mickeyf
    replied
    Well then, until vodka is a cheap as WD40 and come in a spray can, I guess I'll keep cutting aluminum with WD40.

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  • Bob Engelhardt
    replied
    Originally posted by kev74 View Post
    ... Maybe some weird desire to show others how much interwebs nonsense one can regurgitate?
    Going ad hominem is usually a sign of uncertainty in ones position.

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  • kev74
    replied
    Originally posted by dian View Post

    " the hobby machinists world. " ?

    who do you think buys the 10l canisters of wd-40 that are sold all over the world? you can get that stuff everywhere. why? because it doesnt work?

    besides it smells nice and i like it on my hands.
    Its the biggest scam the world has ever seen! The WD40 people were able to convince major industry all over the world to buy their worthless product in bulk for almost 70 years. What a bunch of suckers!!!

    In all seriousness, its a great product for what it does. If you don't think its a lubricant, try spraying some on a squeaky hinge - the squeak stops.

    I've used the stuff as a lubricant, a solvent (helps cut grease or tar off your tools, hands or even out of your clothes!), a water displacer, a protectant, a penetrating oil, a mold release, honing oil, gun oil, cutting oil and more I can't remember. Maybe its not the best for all applications, but its pretty good for most of them. And its always around! Probably because its dirt cheap. I bet I have 3 or 4 cans of WD40 laying around for every can of Kroil. I don't think I've had a job where there weren't cans of it floating around.

    I'm not sure where the hate comes from. Maybe some weird desire to show others how much interwebs nonsense one can regurgitate?

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  • Dave C
    replied
    Vodka?

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  • mickeyf
    replied
    I have never tried alcohol when cutting aluminum. What kind? Drugstore isopropyl ? And can you get it in a nice spray can like WD40?

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  • epicfail48
    replied
    Originally posted by Georgineer View Post

    There is now a range of things, including lubricants, called WD40. However, the original was a water dispersant (hence WD) and not a lubricant. I wonder what it is that you're shaking up off the bottom.

    From experience, I'm with the ones who find that WD40 leaves a sticky varnish if left for a long time.

    George B.
    There actually is some oil in WD40, its just a really lightweight kind. Its listed in the MSDS as "Petroleum Base Oil", hardly specific, but it does make up less than 35% of the product

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  • dian
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post
    It's hard to believe that WD40 is taken so seriously by such knowledgeable people - not just here, but all over the hobby machinists world. WD40 is the half-assed solution for any job except water displacement. It's the one-stop, convenient, jack-of-all-trades-master-of-none kind of product. Paint thinner, naphtha, alcohol are far better solvents. Pretty much any oil is a better lube. Paint thinner & alcohol are better cutting fluids for aluminum. Any made-for penetrant is better. Rust protection? seriously?

    [/Rant]
    " the hobby machinists world. " ?

    who do you think buys the 10l canisters of wd-40 that are sold all over the world? you can get that stuff everywhere. why? because it doesnt work?

    besides it smells nice and i like it on my hands.

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post
    It's hard to believe that WD40 is taken so seriously by such knowledgeable people - not just here, but all over the hobby machinists world. WD40 is the half-assed solution for any job except water displacement. It's the one-stop, convenient, jack-of-all-trades-master-of-none kind of product. Paint thinner, naphtha, alcohol are far better solvents. Pretty much any oil is a better lube. Paint thinner & alcohol are better cutting fluids for aluminum. Any made-for penetrant is better. Rust protection? seriously?

    [/Rant]
    Actually, WD40 DOES seem to contain "some" oil or other similar material. That's what forms the goo (maybe it IS the goo to begin with). But it seems to be less than half of the total volume.

    And, it DOES provide short-term rust protection. A test in the weather will show that short-term is a couple days, outside, but sometimes that is enough.

    If you tend to use water-based cleaners, as I do, WD40 is a cheap, effective, way to get the last bits of water off of a cleaned part, and avoid the flash rust that often appears within a couple minutes on cleaned parts. Just dunk them, and let the WD run off for a couple minutes.

    Things like purple cleaner get all the protective oil off the surface, and flash rust is an issue. WD does avoid that, and the amount of "coating" can be less than what leaves any significant amount of "goo" on the part

    Beats thick oil on the parts, and oil does not drive off water as well. (WD is not perfect even at that, it's original purpose, but it is better than straight oil).

    Using it as "oil"? Forget it.

    Using it as rust protection for more than a short time? Forget that also.
    Last edited by J Tiers; 04-08-2020, 11:01 AM.

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  • Bob Engelhardt
    replied
    It's hard to believe that WD40 is taken so seriously by such knowledgeable people - not just here, but all over the hobby machinists world. WD40 is the half-assed solution for any job except water displacement. It's the one-stop, convenient, jack-of-all-trades-master-of-none kind of product. Paint thinner, naphtha, alcohol are far better solvents. Pretty much any oil is a better lube. Paint thinner & alcohol are better cutting fluids for aluminum. Any made-for penetrant is better. Rust protection? seriously?

    [/Rant]

    Leave a comment:


  • Georgineer
    replied
    Originally posted by john b View Post
    To have wd40 work the way it's supposed to, you have to shake the the can to get the lubricant off the bottom.
    There is now a range of things, including lubricants, called WD40. However, the original was a water dispersant (hence WD) and not a lubricant. I wonder what it is that you're shaking up off the bottom.

    From experience, I'm with the ones who find that WD40 leaves a sticky varnish if left for a long time.

    George B.

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    WD40 is a mixture... not very well mixed.

    Don't believe it? Pour some in a glass jar, let it suit with cover on. It will separate into two layers, clear liquid, and a milky lower layer.

    Oil on plastic, as with the OP, is best removed with Purple cleaner (lye and another ingredient). Just about always cleans off anything that started life as oil etc.

    The only thing it does not do well with is ancient grease, when the oil has departed the scene long ago, and all that is left is the "soap" component. Getting that out of a bearing, for instance, is pretty hard (just like the soap is).

    Leave a comment:


  • john b
    replied
    To have wd40 work the way it's supposed to, you have to shake the the can to get the lubricant off the bottom.

    Leave a comment:


  • DrMike
    replied
    Originally posted by RWO View Post

    This is just plain wrong. WD-40 leaves behind a sticky brown film. If you don't believe it spray a film on a clean glass surface and let it dry out completely. I have seen guns cleaned and "lubed" by rookies that were basically inoperable because of the brown gunk. This is a well known by serious shooters. In my younger days, I used to clean and preserve chucking reamers and endmills in their clear plastic tubes with WD-40. Every one of them eventually developed the brown gunk on the tools and the insides of their tubes. Now I use CRC 3-36 with no problems.

    RWO
    I have done your test, a couple of times. If the glass starts out clean (and this seems to be the key in the test), I have never seen a "sticky brown film" when the WD-40 eventually dries, no matter how many times I tried it.

    I have also seen many, many old guns clogged with "brown gunk," guns that were "cleaned" with and without WD-40. Again - in my experience - folks tend to "clean" guns with WD-40 by spraying until everything is sopping wet, at which point the mechanism works slick and feels fine. However, if the gunk isn't actually removed when it's still suspended in the liquid WD-40, it gets redeposited everywhere when the solvent dries, and the WD-40 gets the blame for the gunk.

    In 30+ years of competitive shooting I've head all the horror stories about WD-40 ruining guns. Many "inoperable" guns (and other small, intricate mechanisms) I've gotten to work in minutes by spraying wet with WD-40 to loosen the "sticky brown gunk," letting it sit for a few minutes, cleaning the "gunk" and the WD-40 off when it is still wet, and then properly lubricating. It's not the most efficient solvent and sometimes takes a few applications, but its cheap and readily available, and It has never never failed to perform for me.

    When you hosed down your reamers and endmills with WD-40, did you wipe off the first application, or did you let all the now-dissolved cutting fluid, oil and leftover preservative dry and harden as the WD-40 evaporated?

    If you don't want to use WD-40, you don't have to, all is good. But if you do want to take advantage of it. then use it only as a solvent. Spray until wet, let it soak for a few minutes and wipe off, then use a lubricant to protect or lube.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tungsten dipper
    replied
    Originally posted by Cuttings View Post
    OK,
    I tried a bit of brake clean, although I don't like to use it inside the shop as someone might find me sleeping beside the machine.
    LOL! Kind of like "Take a trip and never leave the farm"!

    Leave a comment:

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