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MT3 or R-8 for drill press

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  • #46
    Here is R8 to MT 4 ,5-1/4" Vertical Penalty comes with it. Click image for larger version

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    • #47
      SvS...no taper shank reamers ? I got lots over 1 /2 inch. Pretty common at auctions . Use them in the lathe and the mill.
      I don't know how you guys make 3/4 inch reamed holes, I use a 47/64 taper shrank drill, then I change it to a 3/4 inch taper shrank reamer.
      btw R8 to Morse 3 adaptor, you can use a knockout drift on it , while it is in the spindle.
      Last edited by 754; 04-09-2020, 03:40 AM.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by dian View Post
        https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...ll-Press/G0784

        i would not want a drill press without variable speed, especially not at that price. btw, who came up with the idea this had power downfeed?
        Dunno, next model up does though for another $300ish.
        I just need one more tool,just one!

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        • #49
          Originally posted by 754 View Post
          I have never seen an R8 drill press. And never seen an R8 shank drill.
          +1.
          On a drill press i just do not see the point.
          Then you want to start drilling with a MT3 1" drill bit. Which will then need an R8 to MT3 adaptor, losing more daylight, i mean, jeez.

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          • #50
            That Grizzely drill press certainly has an R8 fitting but at the price of a mill, you are still only getting a drill press. The moving bed of a mill is a great improvement as long as the height restrictions are not the decisive factor. I use drill chucks with fitted and integral R8 arbors, but also have R8 to MT2 tanged arbors to take drills and also the drill chucks which fit the lathe tailstock. Most drills are straight shank, so a little more time taken to change a MT drill hardly matters, this is the Home Shop Forum, not Practical Machinist after all.

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            • #51
              Classic HSM. Four pages on a drill press and the OP has gone to hide from all the fellas arguing about giant industrial machines lol.

              Originally posted by wierdscience View Post

              My policy is never use a chuck unless I have to. I hate the stupid things and the keys that come with them, but that's just me. Biggest source of chatter I find are pilot holes that are too large. I stay on my helpers at work about that daily. Pilot only needs to be as big as the width of the chisel point on the finish drill and all holes are to be drilled in two steps-pilot and finish diameter, no intermediates. Do they listen? No, and they wonder why get cranky


              Those guys confuse the hell out of me. Especially when they drill 1/32 under and then come back to finish it to size. Why waste an operation?

              I'll use intermediates on really big holes. I can pilot up to 3/4", but I'm generally running an intermediate by 1.5".

              Originally posted by wierdscience View Post
              Now I do have drills with MT shanks up to 3-7/16", and I have used them in years past in the lathe, but anymore they sit idle. Easier and faster to blow a 1" hole in the stock and then hog it out with an insert boring bar.Less power required, less wear and tear on the tail stock barrel.
              Hmm, we might have to talk about making some trades haha.

              Originally posted by 754 View Post
              btw R8 to Morse 3 adaptor, you can use a knockout drift on it , while it is in the spindle.
              How? Please enlighten us.
              21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
              1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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              • #52
                Originally posted by dian View Post
                https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...ll-Press/G0784

                i would not want a drill press without variable speed, especially not at that price. btw, who came up with the idea this had power downfeed?
                Sorry, that was me. Instead of clicking on the link in post #8 from Mark for some reason I went directly to the Grizzly site and found the G0823 which DOES have power downfeed and thought it was the same as the one in Mark's link. Sorry for the confusion.



                Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
                  ,,,,,, from all the fellas arguing about giant industrial machines lol.
                  ​​
                  .......
                  Mine is not, just a plain 18" Atlas drill Press, MT3 (ok, Atlas Clausing, but whatever). Rated up over 1" in CI, a little less in "steel". Rebranded "Clausing" the year after mine, and possibly industrial, but by no means "giant".

                  But I still don't understand the problem with using MT drills. Yeah, new they are expensive, but I got all mine, from 3/16" to over an inch, for less than what one of the larger size drills would cost. All good brands .......... wait, I recall I bought one import drill for a size I did not have, and it cost more than I paid for a dozen or more of the others.

                  They go for cheap. On the "hobby market", very few people have DPs that can even take an MT3, most are MT2, and also most "home shop Harry" types do not know what to do with an MT drill even if they had it. (you folks here are unusual).
                  CNC machines only go through the motions.

                  Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                  Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                  Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                  I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                  Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

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                  • #54
                    I may have given wrong info. The r8 to Morse 4 can use the knock out while mounted, looks like the 3 can not.
                    to the guy that said they had carbon drills over 2 inch, they are still handy, use them on Aluminum, brass, plastic.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by 754 View Post
                      ............
                      to the guy that said they had carbon drills over 2 inch, they are still handy, use them on Aluminum, brass, plastic.
                      Or just go slower. They did not make those drills just for decoration, they were intended for use drilling steel.
                      CNC machines only go through the motions.

                      Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                      Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                      Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                      I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                      Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

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                      • #56
                        I looked at the specs of the Grizzly and couldn't see the throat depth.

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                        • #57
                          If you can find one the Buffalo Forge #22 is an awesome drill. Morse 4 taper in the spindle, 6:1 back gear and plenty of HP. I have one in excellent condition that came out of Camp Perry Ohio and another I picked up as a project I saved from the scrap hopper unfortunately its a bigger mess that I was hoping.

                          Click image for larger version

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                          Mike
                          Central Ohio, USA

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