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Baldor 3-phase motor for RPC

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  • #91
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    Once you have it running reasonably fast, it should take off on its own without the start caps. If it does not, that means that something is not right.....

    If you are CERTAIN that the start capacitors are getting disconnected, then that is OK. But they DO NEED to get disconnected FOR CERTAIN, once the motor is started and running, likely a second or so time-wise.....

    If it does not work, then try swapping motor leads as I mentioned. If it works then, either you fixed a connection, or there may be a motor fault on the winding that used to be the generated leg. Check temperature, and watch out for the smell of charring varnish.

    Let us know.
    I've checked the wire-groupings several times to make sure I soldered the right ones together on the motor. I didn't think to switch up T1,T2 and T3 off the motor to the contactor buss bars. But you're sure I can do that? I've switched the single phase inputs just because I can't tell L1 and L2 apart anyway besides the color tape I placed on them from the service connect to the building.

    I'm half tempted to stick a pony-motor on this just to get it up and running, but I hate doing Band-Aids instead of addressing actual problems.


    • #92
      Any of the 3 wires will work the same. As inputs and as the generated leg. There is nothing special about them other than the labels.

      Just be sure you have the "6" where it belongs, and have not (as I have) swapped it with the "9", there is usually a bar that indicates which way to look at it, but not always.. The "7" and the "1" can look pretty similar if the marking is damaged slightly.

      Keep eye on ball.
      Hashim Khan