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Work holding and Tooling Holders you have Shop Built

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  • #16
    When mine freewheels, I stop the lathe put it in neutral and moved the chuck till I see the key engage, then start lathe in reverse. The bad part about it is, the rear half of the long sleeve needs a key way about 4 inches long, I cut that on a shaper, ending at a drilled hole. I also made a tri bar spinner for the sleeve, for pipe threads that I had to reverse often to break chips.. for that I pulled the key out... if you tap the key for a small screw, you can jackscrew it out fast. If I see it will try to take a pic. In took a short damaged MT 4 drill and pressed the main tapper body over that, held with setcrews.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by BCRider View Post
      I've got a piston style BXA size QCTP that I'm still not sure I want to commit to using. It's OK but is one helluva visual lump in the way of seeing the work.

      Here's the ones I've made so far. A block for boring bars. It's shown with a 1" diameter body shop made bar in place and a couple of 5/8" to smaller size adapters shown. I've also got a 1" round bar adapter that works with 3/8" and 1/2" shanks . Also shown is the block that holds the coining tool and the old 3 position knurling tool.

      Click image for larger version

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      I've needed to grind my chuck jaws for some time and found recently that my Foredom clone flex shaft tool hand piece has a 1" OD. So this is the setup I'm using to get ready for grinding away the bell mouthing in the near future. It uses the same boring bar holder block shown above...
      Click image for larger version

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      So I'm still waffling over the idea of a bunch of additional shop made holders for the QCTP or going with the 2x2 blocks that hold two tools each and swap out by removing a nut and swapping tool blocks. Shown next below is my own take on a "pencil sharpening tool" that can be ground and used in such a way that most of the overall length of the HSS tool blank is available for use. The angle shown to hold the 1/2" square HSS tool does not show the back rake angle for the top and how I ground away a wedge along the front face. The idea is that a touch of end grinding and a touch of front grind at a slight angle with the top rake angle set by the double angled slot in the block let's me use the 4" long blank until it is only about 1.4" long. And that much room for sharpening means a LOT of turning and a LOT of chips.

      This block was done some time back and has proven its worth. The intent is to put a parting tool holder on the other side but I've simply not got around to it yet.

      Click image for larger version

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      After that if I do not opt for this idea over a bunch of dovetailed blocks for the QCTP main body will be a bunch of blocks with tapered lower seats in the groove and wedges that fit 1/2, 3/8, 5/16 and 1/4 HSS tools and which are shifted along the angled base of the slot with a screw to adjust the cutter height.

      The nice thing I prefer over this option is that first of all it is not as big a visual blockage of the work area as with the Aloris style QCTP. The next big issue is that these tool blocks reduce the unsupported overhang that we get with QCTP's. Mind you I've used the Aloris piston style post enough to realize that this second issue is a non issue in the real world. But it does not change the idea that my blocks are far easier to see around then the Aloris style post and holder.

      Another work holder that I typically use on my drill press is this small part flat holder that I first saw in Guy Lautard's "Machinist's Bedside Reader" books. It's been a big help for holding small parts that need drilling on the flat sides for a good 12 or more years now. So much so that I want to do a bigger version for medium size impossible to hold flat things now.

      Click image for larger version

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      And finally do the numerous 1/4x 1 pieces I've made for clamping stuff to the mill table count?
      Let us know how the grinding goes. I tried to do this on a three jaw I have and it was a total failure. I reluctantly went to the four jaw I had and never looked back. Four jaw is the cats behind IMO

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by challenger View Post

        Let us know how the grinding goes. I tried to do this on a three jaw I have and it was a total failure. I reluctantly went to the four jaw I had and never looked back. Four jaw is the cats behind IMO
        Did you use anything to keep the jaws "loaded" in the way that they would be in use?

        I have ground the jaws of a couple of chucks, and it worked perfectly both times with no issues..

        The subject might could use it's own thread.
        CNC machines only go through the motions.

        Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
        Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
        Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
        I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
        Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

          Did you use anything to keep the jaws "loaded" in the way that they would be in use?

          I have ground the jaws of a couple of chucks, and it worked perfectly both times with no issues..

          The subject might could use it's own thread.
          I just machined some Bison Jaws with boring bar,it left nice finish is that wrong.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

            Did you use anything to keep the jaws "loaded" in the way that they would be in use?

            I have ground the jaws of a couple of chucks, and it worked perfectly both times with no issues..

            The subject might could use it's own thread.
            Trying to figure out an easy way to load the jaws while leaving the jaws open to roughly 1" is where I'm at just now. Curvature of the edge seems to be 1" or 25mm from matching it against washers and such. And the stone I want to use is 1" so that's a happy accident.

            But it means the jaws need to be quite a ways opened.

            I'll do a thread on the job of it's own when the time comes.
            Chilliwack BC, Canada

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            • #21
              It seems every one trues Jaws with grinder is a Carbide Boring Bar the wrong process?

              Comment


              • #22
                Extension table for the shaper box table.
                About 7/8" plate steel, machined both sides in a c/head flat gasket face machine.

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                • #23
                  Main tool head for the Stent T&GC;

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                  Centres from iron castings;

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                  • #24
                    Thaiguzzi, Handy looking shaper table extension plate. Is it for mounting some kind of dividing head & tailstock? If it's for mounting shafts along the axis of the ram, it's handy to check to see if your shaper has a hole all the way through from front to back, allowing it to "swallow" shafts - only obvious if you look under the ram. Do you have any kind of support bracket beneath it, or just rely on the rigidity of 7/8" plate? Ian
                    All of the gear, no idea...

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Nice work you guys. That T&CG tooling is a lot of work, looks good.

                      Like most shop guys, I've made a fair bit over the years. Here's a few shots of some Dickson tool holders (still wish I have 3x as many), a boring bar holder and a drill grinding fixture...yeah ok they're repeats.....so come you guys you never post any project photos....you must of made something?






















                      Last edited by Mcgyver; 05-08-2020, 12:30 PM.
                      in Toronto Ontario - where are you?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post
                        It seems every one trues Jaws with grinder is a Carbide Boring Bar the wrong process?
                        You open up all sorts of ideas for me with that. The big problem as I see it off the top of my head is that we don't really want to remove much material. Ideally we would only remove enough that the whole length of the edges are brought out to match the spot with the most wear. And generally that is only a piddling .002'ish at most.

                        I'd have to recheck but I seem to recall that a piece of 7/8 drill rod I have here was deflecting about .005'ish at a couple of inches out from the jaws. so .003ish at the end of the jaws. And given how the three jaw geometry works probably only .002 or a bit less of actual runout. One thing I've read about many inserts is that they do not like to work with removing very small amounts. But kissing that much away with even a small grinding stone isn't so bad. And the .002 is just at the very back of the jaws. UP at the front it's going to have to start from nothing and shave away an increasing ramp.

                        If there is an insert out there that would be happy with this sort of small cut from zero to roughly .002 and would not immediately chip away the edge then I suspect that it might work out.

                        Mcgyver, I like the use of the silver soldering or brazing you used. From the delicate look of it I'm thinking it's silver solder? A nice option for such assemblies where welding would introduce a lot of added shrink stresses. I think we don't use the idea of silver soldering for this sort of thing often enough in our projects. At least I know that I sure don't.
                        Last edited by BCRider; 05-08-2020, 03:27 PM.
                        Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                        • #27
                          thanks, yes, silver solder. That was a tricky piece, I think 5 joints all using the same temp solder. I almost always use Kozo's recommended method - small pieces 1/16" dia SS placed on the joint then everything warmed
                          in Toronto Ontario - where are you?

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by BCRider View Post

                            Trying to figure out an easy way to load the jaws while leaving the jaws open to roughly 1" is where I'm at just now. Curvature of the edge seems to be 1" or 25mm from matching it against washers and such. And the stone I want to use is 1" so that's a happy accident.

                            But it means the jaws need to be quite a ways opened.

                            I'll do a thread on the job of it's own when the time comes.
                            You might try the ring method.

                            CNC machines only go through the motions.

                            Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                            Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                            Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                            I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                            Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by BCRider View Post

                              You open up all sorts of ideas for me with that. The big problem as I see it off the top of my head is that we don't really want to remove much material. Ideally we would only remove enough that the whole length of the edges are brought out to match the spot with the most wear. And generally that is only a piddling .002'ish at most.

                              I'd have to recheck but I seem to recall that a piece of 7/8 drill rod I have here was deflecting about .005'ish at a couple of inches out from the jaws. so .003ish at the end of the jaws. And given how the three jaw geometry works probably only .002 or a bit less of actual runout. One thing I've read about many inserts is that they do not like to work with removing very small amounts. But kissing that much away with even a small grinding stone isn't so bad. And the .002 is just at the very back of the jaws. UP at the front it's going to have to start from nothing and shave away an increasing ramp.

                              If there is an insert out there that would be happy with this sort of small cut from zero to roughly .002 and would not immediately chip away the edge then I suspect that it might work out.

                              Mcgyver, I like the use of the silver soldering or brazing you used. From the delicate look of it I'm thinking it's silver solder? A nice option for such assemblies where welding would introduce a lot of added shrink stresses. I think we don't use the idea of silver soldering for this sort of thing often enough in our projects. At least I know that I sure don't.
                              I don't remember exactly how much I removed but it was lot's 12-15 thou and only did Master Jaws.Will not be using Bolt On Jaws as this Chuck will go on Back End of Spindle Bore of Lathe for holding longer stock.This 8" Bison with all matching # showed extreme wear on Master Jaws way more than Bolt On Jaws.My guess it was used a lot with only Master Jaws installed,it came in a Box of Auction Goodies so history is unknown.I used 5/8" Kennametal bar with inserts for interrupted Cutting,started by taking a few 1 thou cuts and ended up taking 2 thou cuts was happy with finish.The Insert in Pic is the one that did the job. Click image for larger version

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                              • #30
                                Welded then turned soft jaws for 4 1/2" diameter X 10" long ABS tubes, 3500 parts so far without problems.
                                An old lathe with a CRT (-:

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