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  • #31
    Originally posted by Bented View Post
    Welded then turned soft jaws for 4 1/2" diameter X 10" long ABS tubes, 3500 parts so far without problems.
    An old lathe with a CRT (-:

    That's impressive how did you true Jaws that long,what's CRT?

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    • #32
      Cathode ray tube? There is one just showing in the second picture. I assume the speed is kept very low with that ammount of jaw overhang.

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      • #33
        A mention was made of the possibility of using boring rather than grinding for truing chuck jaws. Possible, but the interrupted cut would put most people off. I succeeded with a variation of this. The museums Smart & Brown model A has a quantity of collets which fit into the spindle. Most were in poor condition in their bores. Not having any sort of tiny grinder, or even thinking of one at the time, I successfully bored the common sizes, 5/16",3/8",1/2", 5/8" and 3/4", plus 8,10,12,16 and 20mm. I used a solid carbide 6mm Garant bar with their own brand inserts which are tiny, but excellent quality. I got the bar cheap on ebay, but had to pay the full price for the inserts which are proprietry, something like DCCT 04 with a 1.8mm screw.
        It would be worth experimenting with an old chuck and a very stiff boring setup.

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        • #34
          TTT, nice job and results with the boring bar on the jaws. With the impact of the interrupted cut how do you think it would handle a tapering cut that started at .001 to start on full size but tensioned jaws?
          Chilliwack BC, Canada

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

            That's impressive how did you true Jaws that long,what's CRT?
            Cathode Ray Tube, a sure sign that a machine is 20+ years old. This is a Bridgeport control produced in the mid 90's, a 10" diagonal CRT that will replace it in its original position is well over $500.00. These controls use the VGA standard and connectors, get a $10.00 cord and a $90.00 fifteen inch flat screen monitor, plug it in and you are back in business.

            Each jaw has a tapped hole in the end, make a ring with corresponding holes and screw it to the ends of the jaws, tighten the scroll and bore them through the center.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by old mart View Post
              Cathode ray tube? There is one just showing in the second picture. I assume the speed is kept very low with that ammount of jaw overhang.
              I tried 1200 RPM's at first but the chips got out of hand and the stock glued itself to the tool, ran them with flood coolant which made for more consistent diameters and a better finish but the chips really became an issue, settled on 750 RPM's dry.
              Part drawing.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by BCRider View Post
                TTT, nice job and results with the boring bar on the jaws. With the impact of the interrupted cut how do you think it would handle a tapering cut that started at .001 to start on full size but tensioned jaws?
                Not sure on full size cut as I left Bolt on Jaws off just in case I came across another Chuck to possible make use of them,Jaws were tensioned.My boring bar was extended enough at 2-1/4" so could have done both.The Kennametal insert was the same ones I used to Machine 65 sockets for my Arbour Press.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Ian B View Post
                  Thaiguzzi, Handy looking shaper table extension plate. Is it for mounting some kind of dividing head & tailstock? If it's for mounting shafts along the axis of the ram, it's handy to check to see if your shaper has a hole all the way through from front to back, allowing it to "swallow" shafts - only obvious if you look under the ram. Do you have any kind of support bracket beneath it, or just rely on the rigidity of 7/8" plate? Ian
                  Yes, used for my Vertex 6" HV Rotab and tailstock, and also a BIG capacity vise i have.
                  Yes, the hole is there, its an 8" Boxford.
                  I was going to support underneath to the box table, but the thing is so goddam rigid as is, nothing moves.
                  Also, by design, most work with the Rotab is light cuts (gear cutting, engraving etc) and the work piece is generally not far off from the box area.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  • #39
                    Re Mcgyver's post #25;

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                    Nasty flame cut steel, enough for 10 blanks...

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                    gettin' there...
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                    Nearly done...
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                    • #40
                      Gettin cut...
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                      Cut;
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                      Drilled, tapped, de-burred...
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                      Finished and blacked;
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                      • #41
                        You're trying to make the rest of us envious.... And it's working! 😀
                        Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                        • #42
                          More work holding, part off commercial food product extrusion nozzles.
                          They are drawn stainless about .035" thick, original part on the right.

                          Turned a mandrel with the taper and radius and a cap that was pushed onto it by the tail stock with the taper and radius on the inside, the only thing holding them is friction, 70+ parts and it worked a charm.
                          If I had to run 700 parts I would have made the tools from steel rather than aluminum.

                          Last edited by Bented; 05-14-2020, 05:47 PM.

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