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Work holding and Tooling Holders you have Shop Built

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  • Work holding and Tooling Holders you have Shop Built

    Usually this is out of necessity, sometimes to save time, or cost. Show what you have , how it's used, the why sometimes.
    I am sure it will benefit others or spark an idea for a solution at times.
    The first pic is 2 of my 4 hold downs I use an awful lot on my RT. 3/8 slot, Aluminum, because often things are tight and you may have to mill or drill into them.. easy to replace and a tapered bushing for a broach I needed one day.
    Second pic, i have a few shopmade 1/2 round bring bars, I use quiteoften for smaller toolbits. I only have a 4 way on my main lathe. , so these fit in and get grabbed by 2 bolts on my 4 way. The second one is a 55 degree threading tool for the odd Whitworth I have cut.
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    Last edited by 754; 04-30-2020, 03:26 PM.

  • #2
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ID:	1872579 This is a sliding Tap holder for tailstock on my Lathe,works real slick. Click image for larger version

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    • #3
      A selection...

      Turret lathe toolholders


      Oversized cutoff tool holder


      arbors for shell end mills and H-mill cutters.



      Ejecting drawbar for the various arbors

      CNC machines only go through the motions

      Comment


      • #4
        Tundra,

        Excellent use for a self centring 4 jaw!. The other part - the taper and the splined shaft for it to slide on - what is the cylindrical bit between the taper and the splined shaft? Is it a slip clutch? The taper takes the torque from the tap I guess.

        Ian
        All of the gear, no idea...

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        • #5
          I've got a piston style BXA size QCTP that I'm still not sure I want to commit to using. It's OK but is one helluva visual lump in the way of seeing the work.

          Here's the ones I've made so far. A block for boring bars. It's shown with a 1" diameter body shop made bar in place and a couple of 5/8" to smaller size adapters shown. I've also got a 1" round bar adapter that works with 3/8" and 1/2" shanks . Also shown is the block that holds the coining tool and the old 3 position knurling tool.

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          I've needed to grind my chuck jaws for some time and found recently that my Foredom clone flex shaft tool hand piece has a 1" OD. So this is the setup I'm using to get ready for grinding away the bell mouthing in the near future. It uses the same boring bar holder block shown above...
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          So I'm still waffling over the idea of a bunch of additional shop made holders for the QCTP or going with the 2x2 blocks that hold two tools each and swap out by removing a nut and swapping tool blocks. Shown next below is my own take on a "pencil sharpening tool" that can be ground and used in such a way that most of the overall length of the HSS tool blank is available for use. The angle shown to hold the 1/2" square HSS tool does not show the back rake angle for the top and how I ground away a wedge along the front face. The idea is that a touch of end grinding and a touch of front grind at a slight angle with the top rake angle set by the double angled slot in the block let's me use the 4" long blank until it is only about 1.4" long. And that much room for sharpening means a LOT of turning and a LOT of chips.

          This block was done some time back and has proven its worth. The intent is to put a parting tool holder on the other side but I've simply not got around to it yet.

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          After that if I do not opt for this idea over a bunch of dovetailed blocks for the QCTP main body will be a bunch of blocks with tapered lower seats in the groove and wedges that fit 1/2, 3/8, 5/16 and 1/4 HSS tools and which are shifted along the angled base of the slot with a screw to adjust the cutter height.

          The nice thing I prefer over this option is that first of all it is not as big a visual blockage of the work area as with the Aloris style QCTP. The next big issue is that these tool blocks reduce the unsupported overhang that we get with QCTP's. Mind you I've used the Aloris piston style post enough to realize that this second issue is a non issue in the real world. But it does not change the idea that my blocks are far easier to see around then the Aloris style post and holder.

          Another work holder that I typically use on my drill press is this small part flat holder that I first saw in Guy Lautard's "Machinist's Bedside Reader" books. It's been a big help for holding small parts that need drilling on the flat sides for a good 12 or more years now. So much so that I want to do a bigger version for medium size impossible to hold flat things now.

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          And finally do the numerous 1/4x 1 pieces I've made for clamping stuff to the mill table count?
          Chilliwack BC, Canada

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          • #6
            MT arbors... Yeah, those are fun. I made a bunch for the previous mill/drill that has an MT3 spindle taper. I sold the mill and all the MT3 tooling to my BIL for the cost of a new mill vise for my new mini knee mill. Still got pics though.......

            Obviously one is an arbor for the boring head. Still have the head but the arbor went to my BIL. The one on the left is teh slitting saw arbor and the one in the middle facing away is, I think, a 5/8" end mill holder. All tapers cut by me on my lathe. It was an education fine tuning the compound. One of the lessons being tht the dial indicator finger MUST be dead on center height.

            The tooling worked like a charm though. The tapers locked hard with just a light bump into place. On par with the commercial stuff.

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            Chilliwack BC, Canada

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            • #7
              Universal law of lathe topslide design:

              Topsllde travel = Tailstock taper length * 0.9

              Seems the topslide travel is never quite long enough...

              Ian
              All of the gear, no idea...

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              • #8
                Work holding.

                A 31" X 5/8" thick 304 disc (the part) screwed to a 36" X 1" aluminum disc which is bolted to a lathe face plate.
                The part is OD turned, faced and bored on both sides. This takes more time to set up then the amount of time making the actual part.

                Face plate for the face plate.


                Face the face plate.


                Mount the part.


                Turn the part, and before you know it 2 days have gone by (-:

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                • #9
                  Careful guys, Brian's(bborr01) lawyer's will be all over you for copyright infringement any minute now!
                  Milton

                  "Accuracy is the sum total of your compensating mistakes."

                  "The thing I hate about an argument is that it always interrupts a discussion." G. K. Chesterton

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                  • #10
                    My rear parting block for the museum's Smart & Brown model A was easy to make and holds 26mm and 32mm blades. The cross slide had to be drilled and tapped to hold it. The top half can be turned round depending which size blade is to be used. Click image for larger version

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                    • #11
                      I also made a rotary broach, er25/MT2 and a second toolpost which takes 26mm parting blades and 12mm solid carbide boring bars. The tool alignments were done after the indexing of the post was achieved, so they are exactly true.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Ian B View Post
                        Tundra,

                        Excellent use for a self centring 4 jaw!. The other part - the taper and the splined shaft for it to slide on - what is the cylindrical bit between the taper and the splined shaft? Is it a slip clutch? The taper takes the torque from the tap I guess.

                        Ian
                        The cylindrical part connects spline shaft to MT taper.I just used MT Extension and mated up a salvaged splined coupling off steering drive.

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                        • #13
                          Tundra, I made my slide tapper different. I have a straight section ahead of the MT 4 section that has a key way , the key is about 1/2 that length and to rear. That way the sliding part can freewheel when it hits a certain depth. My slider has a stepped bore at the tap end. Taps are held by a flanged bushing bored to tap shank size. At tail end of bushing I drill thru both sides of it and tap, then I use 2 setscrews to hold against the square end of tap, to prevent turning. The bushing and tap, slide in the slider and are held by 2 setscrews that bear against a flat on the bushing. Drives 3/4 inch Taps easily..

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                          • #14
                            Here's a rear tool post for my South Bend, on a T slot cross slide casting I got from Andy Lofquist. Also, a 3C collet holder for my AXA quick change. Click image for larger version

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                            I cut it off twice; it's still too short
                            Oregon, USA

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 754 View Post
                              Tundra, I made my slide tapper different. I have a straight section ahead of the MT 4 section that has a key way , the key is about 1/2 that length and to rear. That way the sliding part can freewheel when it hits a certain depth. My slider has a stepped bore at the tap end. Taps are held by a flanged bushing bored to tap shank size. At tail end of bushing I drill thru both sides of it and tap, then I use 2 setscrews to hold against the square end of tap, to prevent turning. The bushing and tap, slide in the slider and are held by 2 setscrews that bear against a flat on the bushing. Drives 3/4 inch Taps easily..
                              Good idea with that disengagement setup, a other option with 4 jaw Chuck is you can grip on round portion of tap if close to bottoming and let it slip.

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