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Stephenson's Rocket--Working Model

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  • --I'm setting here with everything assembled, trying to decide what to do next. There is an assembly of flat-bars that run parallel to the boiler and out in front of the engine from the rear of the driver platform. I have the material so I probably will build them next. I'm also thinking about how I am going to anchor the stay rods that act as braces on the smokestack and drivers platform. I would like to make them from 1/8" diameter aluminum round rods, but that creates a problem at the ends where they transition from round to flat. I might make them from 1/8" diameter steel cold rolled, which would let me silver solder a very small flat bar to each end. I checked to see what size socket head capscrew would work to attach them, but the only size that has a head diameter less than 1/8" is a number "0". That is almost smaller than I can comfortably work with.
    Brian Rupnow

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    • [I checked to see what size socket head capscrew would work to attach them, but the only size that has a head diameter less than 1/8" is a number "0". That is almost smaller than I can comfortably work with.[/QUOTE]

      Ya, I had serious reservations about those dinky sizes. I made a tapping fixture, and it reduced the pucker factor a couple steps
      I cut it off twice; it's still too short
      Oregon, USA

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      • I think you can flatten the ends with a hammer. Pictures show what I was able to do with a 0.160 diameter nail ( closest thing I had to 1/8” aluminum. Could make it look better with a little more time and some sanding.
        When I get Time... I'll...

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        • Thanks Hawkeye--I'll give that a try.---Brian
          Brian Rupnow

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          • Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
            --I'm setting here with everything assembled, trying to decide what to do next. There is an assembly of flat-bars that run parallel to the boiler and out in front of the engine from the rear of the driver platform. . I checked to see what size socket head capscrew would work to attach them, but the only size that has a head diameter less than 1/8" is a number "0". That is almost smaller than I can comfortably work with.
            Could the braces be held in place by a rivet that is a press fit? Easier to find tiny rivets and they don't require any threads.
            https://www.microfasteners.com/miniature-rivets.html
            https://rivetsinstock.com/rivets/sol...id-rivets.html
            Last edited by reggie_obe; 06-28-2020, 03:01 PM.

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            • I've started taking applications for "Train Driver". This guy showed up last night just after dark!!!--I also have a five year old grandson visiting for a couple of days. He should have a card like Paledin---"Have Toys--Will Travel".
              Brian Rupnow

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              • I'm coming right down to the wire on this thing. All I have left to build before tackling the wheels are the bands which go around the boiler (Which will probably be cut from some aluminum tubing) and the piping below the boiler, and the fire-box door. Since the piping below the boiler is only for show and not for go, I think I can bend it up from round bar. I will make up a welding jig as shown in red, then heat the rod until it is cherry red and bend it around the posts in the jig.

                Brian Rupnow

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                • This is the piping that runs below the boiler in it's first stage of development. A simple jig was made from scrap 1/2" plate and four 1/4" dowels mounted in it in the correct position. The "pipe" is designed with 1/8" inside radius at the bends, and the easiest way to achieve that is to bends the "pipe" around the 1/4" dowels. Of course the "pipe" is really 5/16" diameter cold rolled steel solid. It is going to require some more "finessing" before it is installed in place. It was heated to bright red in the bend areas with my oxy-acetylene torch and bent by hand.
                  Brian Rupnow

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                  • Hah!!!--even the old and ugly get lucky sometimes. I had to go by my metal supplier today, and he had a cut-off of aluminum tube just about exactly the side I needed for the rings on the outside of my boiler. A little boring on the inside, and a clean up pass on the outside, and I have a lovely set of rings for the outside of my boiler. They will eventually be loctited in position, and the one ring that sets between the engines is going to have to be cut, but I'm so much happier making the rings this way than trying to form them out of aluminum strips bent around a form.

                    Brian Rupnow

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                    • ---Now, jumping back onto the project I started much earlier today. The piece has been removed from the jig, ends sawed off to correspond with the fire-box width, and a vertical section silver soldered on. The vertical piece has a hole drilled and counterbored thru the center, and a #4 shcs will go thru it and screw into threads in the bottom of a hole in the boiler. Although I have never shown it in the solid models, I want the sawed off ends to have a flange where it meets the sides of the fire-box. I'll do that tomorrow morning.
                      Brian Rupnow

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                      • Reggie-obe--thank you for the suggestion about using rivets. I meant to answer you after you posted, but got busy with something else and forgot.---Brian
                        Brian Rupnow

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                        • Today I added the "flanges" to the piping which sets below the boiler, and I built what passes for a fire-box door. What a crazy lathe set-up to turn the 9 degree tapered face on that "door". The only way I could make it work was to reach across center with the cutting tool and run the lathe in reverse. It worked fine, but was a really strange set-up.
                          Brian Rupnow

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                          • This afternoon, while I had everything disassembled, I decided to paint. I've been dithering for a month, trying to decide whether to paint this thing or not, but finally decided to go with more or less "traditional" colors. Semi gloss black on everything except the boiler and wheels, which will be "Knock your eyes out yellow". So I painted--cleaned up---found another part---painted--cleaned up--found another part. I went thru about 5 or 6 rounds of this before I had most of the black parts painted. Damn, there are a lot of parts!!! Haven't painted the boiler yet, because I haven't Loctited the boiler rings in place, but maybe tomorrow. The only thing left to fabricate are 6 "stay rods" of various lengths. I know the engines run, because they ran on the test stand.
                            Brian Rupnow

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                            • Originally posted by brian Rupnow View Post
                              Today I added the "flanges" to the piping which sets below the boiler, and I built what passes for a fire-box door. What a crazy lathe set-up to turn the 9 degree tapered face on that "door". The only way I could make it work was to reach across center with the cutting tool and run the lathe in reverse. It worked fine, but was a really strange set-up.
                              Nothing strange at all about that -- I've cut some tapers that way because it was the only way to keep my hand and the top slide out of the chuck. Kinda important to keep ones hand outta there...

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                              • This morning I Loctited the boiler rings in place. This isn't really a big deal on three of the rings. The fourth ring may be a challenge. It is split around the engine mounts, and split again on the bottom half below the motor mounts to clear the pivot support bar. If the Loctite doesn't want to hold on this ring I may have to "pin" the individual ring sections in place with 0.039" diameter pins inserted thru the ring sections and into corresponding drilled holes in the boiler body. I wanted to paint the boiler today, but may have to put that off until tomorrow depending on how rapidly the Loctite sets up.
                                Brian Rupnow

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