Gravely tractor axle repair ideas needed.

[nc5a]

I bought this Gravely 18G Professional last summer along with a sweeper attachment and I'm just now getting around to seeing what kind of a deal I got. First thing I noticed is it needs new tires front and rear. The engine has compression and spark and fuel (starting fluid) but won't start or even pop. The transmission and clutch seem to be free as is the mower deck so not any serious problems there.

The main problem reared it's ugly head when I discovered the left rear wheel hub almost spinning freely on the axle. As you can see from the photos the hub keyway is pretty well hosed. But again not a big deal. I bored out the hub and sleeved it with the help of Locktite 680. Four stitch screws inboard and 4 outboard will go in next. But the axle!!! now that's a problem because I don't want to split the transmission case if I don't have to.

Any ideas on making a respectable repair with the axle in place? The key is a woodruff about 1/4" thick. The taper is 0.100"/1.00". New axles are available but not sure of the price

[Sparky_NY]

Not what you want to hear but the only way to do a good repair is to pull the axle. Once removed, the old keyway could be welded in and turned down flush, then a new keyway cut in another location.

Is the taper you gave original on the axle or is it wear? If original, then a way to fix things might be to drill and put in a pin through the hub and axle. It would have to be a press fit so it wouldn't hammer itself out. Not a good way to fix it but there are not many decent alternatives without pulling the axle. A even more redneck repair would be to simply weld the hub to the axle.

[nickel-city-fab]

Thats a nice job on the bore and sleeve. I'm afraid I agree with Sparky -- you'll have to pull the shafts. Otherwise you'll just be wasting all that nice work you did on the hubs. PS have you seen the forums at smokstak.com? There's guys there that collect Gravely's, so they probably have all the blueprints and know-how. Its a great site for tractors and ag equipment, and old engine collectors.

[nc5a]

Sparky and Nickel, thanks for the input. I was afraid pulling the axle was the only way to do it right but there are some pretty sharp guys on here that I was hoping would have a proven way to do the repair. I'll have to check out smokstak and see some Gravely porn. Thanks

[JoeLee]

I had to do basically the same kind of repair to my old Simplicity rear axel. I had to split the case and take everything apart. Those hogged out Woodruff key slots are typical on small tractor hubs. All that back and forth changing directions. I would add an extra key while you've got it apart.

JL.....

[QSIMDO]

Make a copper woodruff, clamp it in the slot and build weld around it.
Pull it out and file the results proper.

[v860rich]

What qsimdo said is exactly what I did to a shaft similar to yours.

THANX RICH

[nc5a]

What qsimdo said is exactly what I did to a shaft similar to yours.

THANX RICH

Did the shaft distort from the welding process? Did you stabilize the shaft with a fixture before welding? This sounds doable. Thanks to both you and qsimdo.

[alanganes]

Make a copper woodruff, clamp it in the slot and build weld around it.
Pull it out and file the results proper.

Another vote for this approach if you do not want to pull the axle.

Shield off anything you don't want weld spatter on (I used kitchen aluminum foil), wrap a dripping wet rag around the shaft between the place you are welding and any seals, secure your copper key in place, clamp your ground clamp to the shaft right where you are about to weld, and zap around it with you welder. I used MIG as that's what I had handy. Let it cool and pull out the copper key.. Then just clean up with a file, dremel, or whatever and you are good to go. Works great.

I have done this a number of times, twice on Subaru crankshafts in place in the car. The welding is very quick and not large amount of material needs to be deposited, so no distortion or other issues.

One our sponsor magazines published a little write-up I did about doing this to one of the Subarus a few years back.

[mickeyf]

Seems to me there is little to lose with the copper woodruff weld in place method. Worst case, it's not acceptable, you have to pull the axle anyway and then you can get at it to clean it up proper.

[nickel-city-fab]

Another idea if you don't want to bother with welding and saving the Woodruff key arrangement, is to use Dutch keys. Much easier to service at least.

[Glug]

I have that same tractor and use it for mowing, fairly heavy snow blowing and leaf collection.

I wonder if you should figure out the engine issues before you spend much time finding alternate ways to repair the axles in situ? Engine might be coming out anyway... Also, the status of the PTO is another critical decision point that could have you opening it up.

How are your clutches and the pressure plates? Those plates cannot be removed without opening the trans. They can be smoothed in place, as I had to do last year.

[nc5a]

Okay guys, copper woodruff key it is. Many thanks for what appears to be reasonable repair solution. I'll post photos of the process for your enjoyment.

Ron

[old mart]

You might be able to get a new axel at a reasonable price and save some bother.

[true temper]

If it were mine I would rough it up and glue it together with Devcon plastic steel. I have fixed many things like this. If you need to take it apart heat it up and it will be free.