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Mounting New Bandsaw Blade (???)

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  • #16
    Lynll yake it easy my friend all you have to say is always worth hearing twice.You don't say what size wheels are on the bandsaw and how many presumably two wheels if the are very small this can cause premature failure as the matal has to bend through a smaller arc.Regards pal Alistair
    Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


    • #17
      Re Breakage: My Brother in law is a professional wood carver. His Sears band saw broke blades quickly. Sears then wnet to .o20 thickness vice the former .o25. Made a world of difference, says he.

      I think those small diameter wheels are a big source of problems. The Blades bend "Too many degrees in too few inches".


      • #18
        Don't have manual nor saw in front of me right now, but I'd guess the wheels (has two) are about 8 or 9" dia. This is the Jet version of that standard Asian 5X6" H/V saw that's in every tool catalog. ... probably a Gazillion of them in use around the world. It'll be interesting to see if this current .020 blade outlasts the standard .025.
        Lynn (Huntsville, AL)


        • #19
          So far my Rigid 0.020" blade from HD seems to work good for cutting 1" to 3" steel rounds on my Dayton BS. I will let you know when it breaks or wears out. Tried measuring the clearance between the blade and the roller bearing guides and all of them were less than 0.0015", the smallest feeler gauge I have. The Enco manual suggested adjustment to less than 0.001". What are your clearances on your Jet with the 0.020" blade? I also had a few trying moments with the blade installation but it seems if I am careful installing blade on the drive wheel first, placement in the blade rollers second and the non drive wheel third, I do OK. Happy Holidays. I would like to cut some Titanium. Dealer suggests I need a BiMetal blade. Will that work for both Ti and Stainless?


          • #20
            sure. use coolant.


            • #21
              You mean you want to cut straight and get good use ??
              All kidding aside here are some hints

              Get a 3 foot straight edge and place it on your wheels. The wheels MUST be in the same plane ! Check both sides, that is near the blade on one side, and on the other side near the blade as well. Since the “driver is rigidâ€‌, all changes must be done to the tension wheel.Change as required to make them in the same plane .

              You need to determine if the blade is coming down square to the bed. Place a good square (24â€‌rafter or 12â€‌ shop) on the bed and run the square blade against the saw blade while holding the saw up 10 or 12 inches. Now lower the blade (No Power!) and see if it pushes the square or leaves a gap as you get down to the bed. If it does, you have a major problem! The pivot pin is off (you might call it the hinge pin). Some machines have the hinge bored at the factory (MAJOR) and some will allow shimming.

              Remove the blade guides. A major error with these saws is IMPROPER blade guides. I call it-misguided blades! They cause very short life. If you have items #1 & 2 above OK, then you can proceed. While the blade is down on the bed, take a Crescent wrench and clamp it on the blade where it normally would cut stock. Rotate the blade so it is up and down, not at the 45 degree angle. As you hold it there, notice that the blade pivots easily …..You are rotating it about its neutral axis! The blade stretches equally at the tooth edge and the back edge of the blade. YOU MUST have your guides reproduce this effect AND NOT SHIFT THE BLADE CENTER. You may have to remachine the adjustment (vertical)guides so the bearings can be rotated and moved enough to accomplish this. (This is the gib like area next to the rollers, NOT where it attaches to the upper housing)…..To assist the set up, clamp a piece of 2x2x6 inch angle to the blade in the lowered position, then carefully clamp the angle to the bed. This will lock the blade somewhat, so you can install the guides and adjust them while holding the desired location.
              Next is to get rid of the rigid tension adjustment. Extend the screw and put a die spring or auto valve spring between the housing and the tension knob. Put a bigger knob on if possible as you want the blades much tighter than the saw normally allows. The spring will keep you from breaking blades under the higher tension and allows for heat build up.
              Take a small square and place it against the blade and the rigid jaw of the work stop. Adjust the stop so work will be square. Now pin it or drill through, or scribe a line in the iron base so it will be a permanent mark to use in case you need to set for angle cutting.
              Disregard the adjusting spring as ineffective. Take weight off the saw with it, but get a bunch of steel/brass rings to hang on the tension wheel for feed weights
              Buy a new blade, put it in tight, and enjoy a saw that will surprise you !

              Tune up your saw if it doesn’t cut straight or the blades have short lives.
              Import Saws can do a good job, but you have to provide better conditions than the factory provides…Remember, you went for price---not quality!

              Green Bay, WI


              • #22
                <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Thrud:
                Sounds like someone needs to adjust his guide bearings better!

                We had guys in the shop that did not give a rat's patootie about anything but partying and even they could do it - after being shown ten times or so.

                You're a smart guy. After you adjust the bearings properly you wont have any problem.

                FYI - rat's can't fart.
                My Friend Charles said that rats do indeed fart and fart quite often. I actually dont give a rats ass though either way. Thanx Audrey


                • #23

                  Chuck is wrong. One of the ways used to kill rats is to feed them carbonated pop - they prefer Pepsi (makes sense to me - I drink Coke) they can't burp either and they bloat and die. So unless Chuck is grabbing rats and sniffing their arses for science to prove otherwise - he needs help.

                  And I thought my friends were warped...


                  • #24
                    RE: Rich Carlstedt's ideas.......
                    I have modified my saw vise just about as described. I took the fixed jaw of the vise and set it dead-nuts square to the blade and the drilled and reamed a hole thru the jaw and the base of the saw. I then made a tee-handled pin to be a nice slip fit in the hole. Since I frequently cut 45* angles, I set the fixed jaw at 45* and transfer drilled and reamed a second hole in the saw base for 45*. I suppose you could do this for other frequently cut angles.

                    One other mod I made was to replace the clamp bolt for the fixed vise jaw special "bolt" made from 3/4" hex stock, long enough to come a little way above the top of the jaw. I made a sliding handle (like on a C clamp) to make this a no tools operation. Both of these mods make using the saw a whole lot easier.

                    [This message has been edited by ckalley (edited 01-28-2003).]


                    • #25
                      I've had my fun with the bandsaw also. I ended up doing what one reader suggested, putting a straight edge across the wheels, and adjusting until I could get the best alignment there. Then I checked the guide area and found that there was misalignment built in that couldn't be corrected. In fact, the alignment would change as I set the distance between guides. The cure for me was to remachine the pieces to allow them to line up properly. What a difference! Now my problem is to keep the blade and guide bearings clean of plastic bits, ( I've worked with a lot of pvc lately ) as that tends to stick to the bearings and wheels, increasing tension on the blade, and making a lot of noise to boot. It sounds like it's about to lift off. I'm about to try using air pressure to keep things cleaner. Using metals, I don't have the problem.
                      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


                      • #26
                        I think the answer to the rat fart is the question "If a rat farts in the shop and there is no one there to hear it does it make a sound"?

                        [This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 01-27-2003).]
                        I just need one more tool,just one!