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Made a Welding Square. Also, Anchorlube review

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  • Glug
    replied
    Originally posted by CCWKen View Post
    and my other favorite. I won't mention that one because it's hard to find already and I don't want the price going up.
    You're worried we're gonna start buying your favorite rare scotch to use as cutting lube?

    Leave a comment:


  • CCWKen
    replied
    I noticed Abom79 hasn't been using Anchorlube any more. He's gone back to stuff in a squirt can. Anchorlube also won't say what's in it. The SDS says proprietary. I'll keep using WD-40 and my other favorite. I won't mention that one because it's hard to find already and I don't want the price going up.

    Leave a comment:


  • epicfail48
    replied

    Originally posted by Dan Dubeau View Post

    In a real working shop, the best setup is the one that gets the job done with what you have on hand..... It's only in the theoretical shops, and Robin Renzitti's where everything is perfect lol. (not meant as a jab at Robin, just his perfection)
    I mean, it got the job done but im not completely sure how it worked without turning the workpiece into a projectile... Screwless vise holding the work sideways, couple strap clamps barely holding things to the table. No way in hell would it have stood up to milling, i still cant figure out how i was able to do any drilling without it shifting. Good vise i guess

    Originally posted by Doozer View Post

    Bull freaking shlt ! It got my brand new Kurt vise rusty because I did not wipe it completely off.
    Not going to even let that stuff in my shop. I hate rust.

    -Doozer
    Got a cast iron 123 block that i let it dry on thats completely rust free, so nope, no bull****

    Leave a comment:


  • Doozer
    replied
    Originally posted by epicfail48 View Post
    Update on the Anchorlube side of this thread, found another positive; it doesnt cause rust, ....
    Bull freaking shlt ! It got my brand new Kurt vise rusty because I did not wipe it completely off.
    Not going to even let that stuff in my shop. I hate rust.

    -Doozer

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Dubeau
    replied
    Originally posted by epicfail48 View Post
    lets ust say it required some fixturing that probably wouldve got me banned from an actual machine shop
    In a real working shop, the best setup is the one that gets the job done with what you have on hand..... It's only in the theoretical shops, and Robin Renzitti's where everything is perfect lol. (not meant as a jab at Robin, just his perfection)

    Leave a comment:


  • quasi
    replied
    it is very expensive in Kanucistan.

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  • Cuttings
    replied
    Another vote for Anchor Lube on stainless. I have been using it for drilling and taping stainless steel for at least fourty years also. I haven't tried it for anything else. Maybe I should.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rich Carlstedt
    replied
    40 years ago, found Anchorlube to be magic for Stainless Steel Jobs and have never looked back.
    I use it on everything , particularly on tapping
    It's number 1 in my book
    Rich

    Leave a comment:


  • epicfail48
    replied
    Originally posted by quasi View Post
    a gallon of Anchor Lube is pretty expensive.
    $48 at MSC. Bit of an upfront cost, but a gallon would last me approximately forever. The 1 quart bottle of dark thread cutting oil i bought lasted me a solid 2 or 3 years, and that wouldve been longer had half of it not spilled on my basement floor. If i went through it faster and had to be buying a gallon every few months id stick with something cheaper, but for my occasional and sporadic use i can stomach the price.

    Forestgnome, i wont argue that it makes a bit of a mess, but i prefer the mess it makes to WD40 or cutting oil. Given my choice in hobbies its kinda weird, but i cant stand getting grease or oil on my hands, so not using oils makes me a lot happier at the end of a job. Easier to clean off the parts too, since its water soluble and soap-based anyways. Toss it in the sink and the parts might come out even cleaner than they were at the start of the job! Kinda like the goopiness too, seems like i have to use less since itll stay in place on a part spinning in the lathe or a drill bit better. Not expecting the anchorlube to be better than everything in all applications, but im willing to settle for good enough in most of my tasks

    Leave a comment:


  • Glug
    replied
    Originally posted by quasi View Post
    a gallon of Anchor Lube is pretty expensive.
    $52 shipped.. So $13/qt, 6.50 pint. So pretty reasonable. Great if you can split with friends. That splitting would be a great thing to coordinate on HSM, ideally with locals so there is no shipping expense.

    Downside - it doesn't flow well in cold temps and if it freezes it separates. It doesn't flow like oil, it is thick. How safe is it? Safer, I guess. Maybe it is a soap or similar - the SDS does not need to disclose. After what happened to some people vaping, it is pretty clear we shouldn't allow vaporized anything into our lungs.

    The solid wax based lubes are sometimes a great option. Though not necessarily low toxic, especially the more mysterious old stock (I have a bunch of that).

    For young folk in the shop? From what we keep learning, they especially should stay away from the tradionally toxic or suspect stuff.

    From the SDS:

    Persistence and Degradability: Product is degradable. Unsealed will begin to degrade rapidly. Shelf life is three years if stored capped at room temperature.

    Inhalation: No adverse effects expected at ambient temperatures. Inhalation of vapors and fumes from thermal decomposition may cause respiratory irritation.
    Ingestion: Swallowing may cause gastrointestinal irritation, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea.

    Leave a comment:


  • Forestgnome
    replied
    Funny how two people can have different opinions on how a product works. I bought some Anchorlube for tapping aluminum based on recommendations in forums, and found it didn't work any better than WD40, and made quite a mess. It's kind of goopy. I think I ended up throwing it away.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fonzy4140
    replied
    Nice job on the square, will do just as well as any [fireball xl-5 {was a 1964 kids space cartoon lol!} ] I always put a light coat of MIG anti-spatter spray or paste on my welding jigs and tools used with any spatter producing welding like stick arc, or MIG.
    Anchor lube is great for cutting and tapping tho pricey...It really is best for tough alloy,tool, and stainless steels...washes off the hands better than stinky sulfur cutting oils lol!

    Leave a comment:


  • quasi
    replied
    a gallon of Anchor Lube is pretty expensive.

    Leave a comment:


  • epicfail48
    replied
    Update on the Anchorlube side of this thread, found another positive; it doesnt cause rust, even when left to dry for several days. It drys up, but once it does its easy enough to wipe off with a rag. Seriously, im really liking this stuff. Need to see how well it does on aluminium, if it works as well as WD40 i might just order a gallon and never use anything else again

    Leave a comment:


  • epicfail48
    replied
    Originally posted by darryl View Post
    Nice project. Being assembled with bolts like that gives you the opportunity to assemble it with JB Weld. Take it apart, clean well, and re-assemble with JB. It just makes it even better.
    Nah, probably wont go that far. Dunno why id need to, but i like having the ability to take the plates off if needed, like if they ever get too scarred up from weld spatter. Plus, once my surface grinder is back running id like to go through and grind everything. No real need to, since in this case being as square and parallel as my mill can get is more than good enough, but still want to


    Originally posted by Dan Dubeau View Post
    Nice job on the square. You made it nice enough to use on the mill as a little angle plate too lol.
    You know, i hadnt thought of that. Wouldnt work unfortunately, this is actually nearly bigger than i can get on my mill! Getting the holes drilled and tapped in the actual square portion was... lets ust say it required some fixturing that probably wouldve got me banned from an actual machine shop

    Leave a comment:

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