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  • #16
    There is also this style, which I believe a number of bench lathe manufacturers had a version of. Spindle can traverse through a pair of bushings, knob on the end spins freely and you feed by hand. Gives a couple inches of travel, might be good for internal grinding of small parts but you're not going to be OD grinding shafts with it.

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    Cayuga, Ontario, Canada

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    • #17
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      Originally posted by darryl View Post
      Spindle balance- looking at die grinders one day at Princess Auto, I test ruan a few of them and picked the smoothest one. There was a difference for sure. The Ridgid router I have is pretty smooth- I actually have two of those and they are both good. I did not have to rout through more than those two to make sure they were smooth.

      I bought a second Power Fist die grinder, and again I went through three boxes to get the best of the bunch. And it turned out to not be as good as the first one I bought. So much nicer to use one that's balanced.
      I used a 2-1/4 hp Bosch Router for my Overarm Diegrinder,old motor housing was bored out and Router slid in with tight fit,KN filter keeps filing out of brushes.It runs smooth 8000-25000 rpm,not a Machine that's uesed daily but handy for a lot of wonky jobs that free handing a Diegrinder doesn't work.

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      • #18
        That's a good 'trick' that everyone should know about at least. In this case I seldom use the compound anymore because it just adds to the play and flex. I fabricated a more solid mount for my tool post, which can be set anywhere within range of the T-slots. This has proven to be very handy, and I've never looked back. I can turn within a half thou easily (that's a quarter spacing between the marks on my dial- easy enough to see and dial in). I did some closer work recently with the pivot points for my drawing machine.

        One thing that has come up for me several times when grinding on a shaft is ringing. Most of the time what I'm grinding on is a small diameter- usually 1/4 inch or smaller. The unwanted reduction in diameter on the workpiece can be quite dramatic when this happens, not to mention the out-of-round that it probably creates. I'll apply some damping, which could be some kind of gummy material like window seal, silly putty, some wraps of solder, or just some touching with the eraser end of a pencil.
        I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Mcgyver View Post

          what would you do with the grinder if you couldn't move it MUCH?

          .......
          There, I fixed it for you.

          While you COULD move it the length of the bed with one of the barrel pulleys, most setups would have used what Tom S showed in post 16. PUT it anywhere you like, and move it just a bit to finish whatever you needed to work on.
          CNC machines only go through the motions

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          • #20
            My "tool post grinder" is the head of my Unimat lathe. I made a block that mounts on the compound to hold the Unimat's vertical column and the head mounts to that. It gives me speeds from a few hundred up to 7500 RPM. I have used it for grinding, drilling, and even milling in the lathe.

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            Paul A.
            SE Texas

            And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
            You will find that it has discrete steps.

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            • #21
              Yup, I've used mine like that too.
              I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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