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Kinda OT looking for help ID-ing B&S engine

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Doozer View Post

    At the door closer factory, we went through an extensive engineering evaluation when our aluminum castings supplier in Turkey wanted
    to switch to a high silicon alloy, apparently because through quantity discounts, it was less expensive than the A380 aluminum.
    So never say never.

    No point in an aluminum liner, it would be CI...... You vendor might have been using a LOT of the other alloy already, so they could get it lots cheaper. And, you folks always had the option to say "NO".
    CNC machines only go through the motions


    • #32
      I talked to an engineer from Briggs and Stratton.
      I was actually looking to purchase a 24volt dc motor of about 1 hp for a sub station switch operator I was designing.
      I ended up talking to the owner of this electric motor company that designs custom motors.
      Turns out, he worked at Briggs and Stratton, in the engines and then the home generator division.
      When they shut down the generator division, he started his own motor company.
      Which is how we came to talk. We talked a lot about their engines and engineering, and when I commented
      how long their cylinders seemed to wear, he told me about their alloy.
      So making assumptions because it just seems logical to you and telling me that what I am saying is just not true,
      well if you insist, but whatever.



      • #33
        Thanks to True Temper I was able to get some parts on order, tune up kit, carb kit, gaskets, fuel cap, etc. I started cleaning out the fuel tank with some chain and shaking it around when I remembered from a past life I used to sell Ridgid pipe tools. We used to sell a lot of Kollman drain cleaning equipment. One of their drain cleaning heads for a K-50 machIne was a chain knocker for cleaning scale off boiler tubes. So 2 1/4-20 nuts, washers a hunk of all thread and some chain and presto! A chain knocker for a cordless drill. Worked a treat! Click image for larger version

Name:	5D954782-9511-482F-B6EB-343A3C7C888B.jpeg
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        Sole proprietor of Acme Buggy Whips Ltd.
        Specialty products for beating dead horses.


        • #34
          Originally posted by 754 View Post
          I am not a car guy , tell me the trick on getting home with a non working fuel pump.
          Well, here’s one way to do it.

          Many years ago, I was a Marine stationed in Kansas City. I had an Austin Healey 100, my best friend had a six cylinder 3000. It was the biggest piece of junk you can imagine - no top, doors welded shut, plexiglass windshield about six inches high and the only steel wheels I’d ever seen on a big Healey. Pretty fast, though, although my four cylinder could match it.

          One night we’d been downtown and his car died on the way home. Didn’t take too long to figure out that the electric fuel pump was not ticking. The fuel filler for the 3000 was on the cowling between the rear seats and the trunk lid, so I climbed back into one of the jump seats, put my mouth over the filler tube, and blew. Fill those SU’s up and it would run for a minute or so. When it started to die I knew it was time for another blow job. We made it the fifteen or so miles home that way. I vaguely recall that we found a piece of heater hose and stuffed it in with a rag so that my teeth wouldn’t get knocked out by the filler rim, but this was over fifty years ago and those recollections are fading. Wouldn’t trade those times for anything, though.


          • #35
            Originally posted by 754 View Post
            Lots of 60,s Honda bikes still running. I had a 69 mini trail I sold about 10 years back that started easy and ran fine.
            I am not a car guy , tell me the trick on getting home with a non working fuel pump.
            Well, I've never seen *anything* japanese from the 60's, running in the last 40 years. Of course, they use road salt up here...

            Easily. Grab a chunk of hose off something non-critical like the windshield washers and put one end over the bowl vent. Fill that with gas. If you have to, use another chunk of hose to get said gas out of thank. Or just unplug the line at the pump and suck it through. I never had to suck gas though because I always keep a couple gallons in a can. A hose full of gas stuck over the bowl vent is good enough for a mile or two at a time.
            25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA