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  • #91
    Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
    Is the shaft all the way out of the machine? I would be tempted to build up with MIG weld and turn the end back down to size. Then use the new bushing from Mc M.
    No its still in the apron.

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    • #92
      Originally posted by vectorwarbirds View Post

      No its still in the apron.
      Can it be taken out? I would want to.

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      • #93
        Check into "Speedy Sleeves" https://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...hart&fr=mcafee

        Steve

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        • #94
          Originally posted by vectorwarbirds View Post

          Its six feet long, I have nothing to turn that down on. There is a gear that goes on the end so it can't be turned undersize.
          Won't it fit through the spindle bore? Don't gotta have powerfeed to cut it.
          21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
          1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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          • #95
            Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

            Won't it fit through the spindle bore? Don't gotta have powerfeed to cut it.
            When I hear "six feet long" I think, "put the outboard end on a sawhorse and gear down to 50 RPM to keep it from whipping... lay a sandbag over the free end. Sure, it'll take a while to cut like that but it'll get done.

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            • #96
              Originally posted by Steve Steven View Post
              Speedy sleeves are not long enough.

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              • #97
                Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

                Won't it fit through the spindle bore? Don't gotta have powerfeed to cut it.
                I don't have the room out of the back of the little South Bend. I would have to move a bunch of equipment and the lathe to get 6 feet hanging out. Plus I would be somewhat worried about welding what is probably tool steel down where the gear connects. What is the argument against the over rod sleeve? What am I missing there?

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                • #98
                  Vectorwarbirds: I would think it the shaft is made from something like 1035 or 1040. A good grade of steel, but not tool steel. I would do a clean up turn and preheat before welding. I would not stick weld but MIG it.

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                  • #99
                    Originally posted by vectorwarbirds View Post

                    I don't have the room out of the back of the little South Bend. I would have to move a bunch of equipment and the lathe to get 6 feet hanging out. Plus I would be somewhat worried about welding what is probably tool steel down where the gear connects. What is the argument against the over rod sleeve? What am I missing there?
                    Is the Monarch not usable enough to do it?

                    Sleeving it is an option, but it will be challenging to get that taper pin hole back just right. They're a little forgiving though.
                    21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                    1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

                      Is the Monarch not usable enough to do it?

                      Sleeving it is an option, but it will be challenging to get that taper pin hole back just right. They're a little forgiving though.
                      No the saddle and apron are all off for other work, that is when I found all these messes. See the latest. Someone once told me "quit taking **** apart!" Should have listened...

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                      • Next mess please. Well one lesson I think I have learned. Don't buy equipment from businesses going out of business. Since they ran out of money they are not going to be maintaining equipment they are just going to band-aid it to keep it running, they are not going to spend any money or time on equipment. Just about every thing on this poor lathe has been mickeymoused by some hamfisted knucklehead. And I mean everything.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        So that said and my beer full of tears how would you handle, get it 'handle' this hot mess. Its the control rod handle and sliding sleeve. Instead of fixing the actual problem they just kept drilling set screw holes anywhere and everywhere. Its cracked from several holes outward as well. I assume there were two opposing set screws originally as there are two on both sides that are larger than what the knucklehead had on hand. They kept doing this to adjust the handle up. So...

                        1. Cut off handle and make entire new sleeve and braze or pin and screw it onto the new sleeve.
                        2. Braze up the entire hole mess and re-machine.
                        3. Machine out the mess and make insert and braze in place.


                        Then end sleeve I am just going to remake.

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                        • Machine out the mess, make up an insert out of some cheap hot-rolled, and braze in place. Also re the other rod you need to sleeve, could you leave that go until you have the rest of it together? And use it to fix itself?

                          PS that's what happens when machines are maintained by non-machinists, that looks like a few decades worth of hacks.

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                          • Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
                            Machine out the mess, make up an insert out of some cheap hot-rolled, and braze in place. Also re the other rod you need to sleeve, could you leave that go until you have the rest of it together? And use it to fix itself?

                            PS that's what happens when machines are maintained by non-machinists, that looks like a few decades worth of hacks.
                            Ok your plan is my plan I will machine out the center mess and make up a new one. What kind of gap would you recommend between the cast iron handle ring and the new hot rolled center for brazing? Looking into waiting on other rod. Thanks!

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                            • Originally posted by redlee View Post

                              Can you just turn the shaft down to cleanup and make a bushing to fit ?
                              Nope there is a gear that goes on that end.

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                              • Originally posted by vectorwarbirds View Post

                                Ok your plan is my plan I will machine out the center mess and make up a new one. What kind of gap would you recommend between the cast iron handle ring and the new hot rolled center for brazing? Looking into waiting on other rod. Thanks!
                                A gap for brazing? anywhere from 3 to 10 thou. Too small and it won't go in. Too big is just extra work and waste. That is one application where I would want to try silver solder in paste form:
                                https://contenti.com/1-2-oz-silver-solder-paste-syringe
                                Just spread it on the parts, put them together, and cherry out the entire assembly.

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