Brought a new lathe home

[wierdscience]

Well new to us, South Bend SBL 440. Previous owner inherited it with a building he bought. Lathe has seen very little use and still has the cosmo on a lot of parts. A few patches of film rust from being stored in an open warehouse, but otherwise very clean. Came with 3 jaw, 4 jaw, steady rest, 5-C hand wheel collet closer, micrometer carriage stop, jacobs drill chuck and an Aloris tool post and holders. Old Acu-rite DRO, lights up and reads, but the display is flashing and I'm not sure why yet.

Still looking for a manual for it without much luck so far.

How much? Well let's say I could buy the Aloris toolpost set new and have money left over for what we paid for it.

[nc5a]

From what I see in the photos you did well and clearly deserve a You Suck!

Congratulation

Ron

[The Metal Butcher]

Congrats! Nice machine.

[Toolguy]

That's a good one. Yes, YOU SUCK!

[Tim Clarke]

Ya, like a turbo suck! But someone needed to steal this, and I’m glad that wierd got it!

[Ringo]

I not sure how bad he knows he sucks !!

[alanganes]

Well new to us, South Bend SBL 440. Previous owner inherited it with a building he bought. Lathe has seen very little use and still has the cosmo on a lot of parts. A few patches of film rust from being stored in an open warehouse, but otherwise very clean. Came with 3 jaw, 4 jaw, steady rest, 5-C hand wheel collet closer, micrometer carriage stop, jacobs drill chuck and an Aloris tool post and holders. Old Acu-rite DRO, lights up and reads, but the display is flashing and I'm not sure why yet.

Still looking for a manual for it without much luck so far.

How much? Well let's say I could buy the Aloris toolpost set new and have money left over for what we paid for it.

Nice score!

At risk of stating the obvious concerning the DRO, I have a ancient Anilam DRO on my mill and the display will flash like that when it is first powered up. It will continue to flash until you press the "test" button on the front panel. I was told that is intentional so that you will know that the power was lost at some point, perhaps while the operator was not there or looking at the display. So at least you know that it may have moved while the power was off and you can double check your position before continuing. That makes some sense, I have no idea if that is the actual theory behind that. In any case, you might just try (if you have not already) just punching some of the front panel buttons to see if the flashing goes away.

Looks like a really nice machine and you got all of the goodies and then some, to get started.

[wierdscience]

Thanks guys, I've had to work with and work my way through rebuilding a lot of abject junk over the years, so having a virgin for once is like hitting the lottery.

[wierdscience]

Nice score!

At risk of stating the obvious concerning the DRO, I have a ancient Anilam DRO on my mill and the display will flash like that when it is first powered up. It will continue to flash until you press the "test" button on the front panel. I was told that is intentional so that you will know that the power was lost at some point, perhaps while the operator was not there or looking at the display. So at least you know that it may have moved while the power was off and you can double check your position before continuing. That makes some sense, I have no idea if that is the actual theory behind that. In any case, you might just try (if you have not already) just punching some of the front panel buttons to see if the flashing goes away.

Looks like a really nice machine and you got all of the goodies and then some, to get started.

Okay, that sounds encouraging, I don't remember seeing a button labeled test, but I may have missed it. I tried looking for a manual for it on the Acu-rite website, but so far no luck. Here is a picture of the data sticker on the back of the unit-

[sarge41]

Alanganes beat me to it. One of my machines has an old Anilam that has a test button that you have to use to get it to start to read right. Good luck.

Sarge41

[nickel-city-fab]

Dude. You scored, seriously. OK, you SUCK!!!!! That was one of the better machines SB produced AFAIK, in the last 10 years or so before they shut down.... notice all the similarities to the Taiwanese lathes -- because that's where they were made, even back in the 1980's

[Tundra Twin Track]

Congrats very good score,what's some of the specs Bore & HP. Hope your making chips soon

[wierdscience]

Congrats very good score,what's some of the specs Bore & HP. Hope your making chips soon

2-1/8" bore, 7-1/2 hp D1 something camlock 14 x 48" I think and about 2400 lbs.

Thanks, I put power to it today, took me about 10 minutes of head scratching before I figured out how to switch it on. I was looking for a clutch handle, there isn't one, no push buttons either, then I noticed the pictograph next to the triangular box under the thread dial. Fwd-Neutral-Reverse switch right there. It's got an open in the safety interlock loop somewhere, because that switch is dead. I did manually close the relays on the main motor and so did get to hear it run, very quiet below 600 rpm and only some faint gear noise all the way up to 1800.

[Rich Carlstedt]

Does the DRO say "Wizard " on it ?
I have a Anilam Wizard manual ----
No serial numbers given in the manual
My Anilam model number is 163-2000100 ??
Rich

[wierdscience]

Dude. You scored, seriously. OK, you SUCK!!!!! That was one of the better machines SB produced AFAIK, in the last 10 years or so before they shut down.... notice all the similarities to the Taiwanese lathes -- because that's where they were made, even back in the 1980's

Yep, all the later model Turnados were Taiwanese too. That was one reason I bought it, it has a lot in common with current production machines from the same mfg. If I remember right, most everything SB had to offer from the mid 70's on was made elsewhere for the most part, at a minimum the castings and in this case the whole machine.

The one SB I would like to find more info on is the 1307 toolroom machine. Always wondered if it was domestic in origin or import?

http://www.omnimachinetoolcorp.com/inv12.htm