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Offshore morse tapers?

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  • #31
    Originally posted by thaiguzzi View Post
    MT3 is too big to machine off the top slide on my lathe.
    But MT2 i can do all day long.
    Put a MT2 adaptor in a 4 jaw and dial it in.
    Indicate the taper till its zero from the top slide angled correctly over the whole length.
    Indicator MUST be on centre.
    Lock the carriage.
    Machine away till both parts (M & F) blue up nicely and you're happy with the fit.
    I wish I could do that, but I measured my top slide travel and it just a bit too short. *sigh* it would have made things so much easier.
    25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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    • #32
      Strange the debate this created. My compound travels 3-3/8" I think, so just enough for an MT3. I used a live center as a reference held in my 4 jaw and indicated in. Used a dti to zero
      out the error as best I could and cut away. The taper fits perfectly in my headstock MT3 female adapter. Or at least it fits perfectly at both ends, and I suppose in between too.
      Certainly it fits in the tailstock solidly, and I ran a quick 1/4-20 thread with the tailstock die holder I made. No issue with the quality of the MT3, maybe I'm just not fussy enough?

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      • #33
        Notice that many commercially available morse taper shank items
        are relieved in the middle? If you are using your compound and
        the travel is too short, Just relieve the middle of your arbor and use
        that as the point where you stop and reset your compound travel.
        No cut blend issue to make look perfect that way.

        -D
        DZER

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        • #34
          Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

          I wish I could do that, but I measured my top slide travel and it just a bit too short. *sigh* it would have made things so much easier.
          I was under the impression my Boxford and your SB 9 were the same.
          I was also under the impression most shop lathes were designed with a top slide travel equal to the tailstock taper ie MT3 taper TS and the compound (top slide) would have the travel needed for MT3.
          I don't think being short even a 1/4" would make a difference TBH.

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          • #35
            Paul:

            As soon as you mentioned the angle blocks, you were out of contention here. NO set of angle blocks in 1 degree increments is nearly good enough for taper fits. It may be fine for "many things", but not for fitting morse tapers, which is the title of the thread. Even with "spacers" it is only approximate, as good as the measurement of the blocks and spacers is..

            Use of a sine bar with gauge blocks is going to make it better, and probably will allow a good fit straight off, but is of course trial and error as to setting the compound (or T/A)..

            Like it or not, the process of setting up for precise fits such as morse taper is trial and error. The use of gauge blocks and sine bar is the way to get the best adjustment to a precise angle.

            If you ever do morse taper tooling, you will discover just how precise the adjustment needs to be to get a good fit. But, it is quite do-able, just fussy.

            Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

            OK, I see the confusion is because we are starting from different assumptions..........

            Final adjustment is always going to be the actual fit though, either with bluing, smoke fitting, or with sharpie marks.
            No confusion whatsoever involved. What you have described is a trial and error process. Your "final adjustment" is exactly that, with the "smoke fit", etc.

            You set it, then try it against the known taper, and adjust out the error as best you can, then try it again, until you have the correct fit.
            CNC machines only go through the motions

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            • #36
              About that compound travel business....

              You know, you do NOT have to have the taper extend the full distance of the nominal morse taper. Yes, it is best to do that, but it is also best to do one setup.

              If the travel is such that you get at least 3/4 of the taper, you can let the rest be undercut below the taper back to where the drawbar screws in (or the tang is). That way the drawbar or tang will still work , and you can cut the taper in one cut, no fiddly re-setting that can lead to errors.

              With a drawbar, the taper will hold as well as any. With a tang, the taper may hold fractionally less torque, but it is still perfectly usable and functional.

              My Logan is just short of the full length of an MT3, but all the tooling I have made works perfectly despite being a tad shorter than the full taper.
              CNC machines only go through the motions

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              • #37
                Originally posted by thaiguzzi View Post

                I was under the impression my Boxford and your SB 9 were the same.
                I was also under the impression most shop lathes were designed with a top slide travel equal to the tailstock taper ie MT3 taper TS and the compound (top slide) would have the travel needed for MT3.
                I don't think being short even a 1/4" would make a difference TBH.
                I could go and double check it again, but I could swear the top slide has 2" of travel on mine -- and I know the TS needs a bit more than that to eject the taper.
                25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                • #38
                  That's why you include a smaller diameter extension on the part you are making, to full depth as long as the tang (or drawbar thread)
                  CNC machines only go through the motions

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
                    That's why you include a smaller diameter extension on the part you are making, to full depth as long as the tang (or drawbar thread)
                    Or thread the end and screw in an allen bolt or similar.

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