Have I Ruined My SouthBend 9B?

[Oso]

Thrud, that is an excellent idea.

And, taper pins if not hardened or too small, can be drilled and presumably tapped.

I had to turn a thread on the end of one to fix the clapperbox for my Atlas shaper. It was not hardened as far as I could tell. At least not beyond what HSS would cut nicely.

You Do have to make a holder sleeve to work on them, but that isn't too hard. And, you will be doing the easy end, the larger.
That thread had to be cut on the small end, so it wanted to push the pin out of the holder sleeve.

[Thrud]

Unlike some of the comments voiced, since it is your machine and you deem it rebuildable don't let them stop you. The rust alone merits the work in my book. But then, I don't throw the baby out just because it poops its pants - I clean it up and rediaper!

You do the human race credit in refusing to settle for "good enough" and not just throwing it out and buying 3rd. rate garbage.

Pat your self on the back.

BTW
Some taper pins can be bought with the ends drilled & tapped for extraction with a cap screw and an sleeve as a "puller". This prevents peening on high quality bearings.

[SJorgensen]

Abn could you please help me navigate through the LOGSA site to find that manual? I'm not sure where it is or if special access is required.
Thanks,

Spencer

[abn]

Just wondered if you've already downloaded a manual for the 9/10K, if not I downloaded one from the U.S. Army LOGSA website.

[Jaymo]

Yes, completely ruined it. I'll take it off your hands for you.

[Oso]

Pretty much every machine I have I have had apart for cleaning and repairs. I guess DR won't buy them, but then I'm not selling either, not now that I have them working so well.

In almost every case, I have found problems that the previous owner created or tolerated. They got fixed. Sometimes I even painted it, but mostly I just fixed the problems the goobers put in.

The "sherwin-williams rebuild" is all over the place on ebay, but most of those "batards a bas" do such a rotten paint job that you can tell. They most always talk it up too.

It sours the deal for me if there is new paint but no evidence of other work, or if the paint job looks poorly done. Not because I want a bad looking unit, but the price seems to rise if the paint is new, no matter any other facts as to wear and so forth.

If I buy a beater, I want it to look and be priced as one.

[SJorgensen]

CL5Man,
If this lathe was outside for 27 years then it might have been set aside for good reasons. Something is likely bent beyond practical repair. I hope you didn't pay much for it and I hope you aren't just cleaning it up for cosmetic reasons to resell it. You really should have someone look it over before you invest much into it. I guess it might depend on how much precision you need or expect. There might be parts available and you might be ok. I've seen some on Ebay. On this I agree with DR. If someone is just cleaning it up for cosmetic reasons, thats of no use. The worst deals are the clean looking screwed up lathes. The first one I bought had a bent spindle.
Spence

[SJorgensen]

I disagree with DR on this. Sometimes the machine resellers do a fine cosmetic job on a tool to raise it's salability. Their interest isn't quite as pure as the owners is. I think it is fine to buy a greasy ugly tool (better than rusty, but sometimes there is hope)and take it apart, clean and paint it. I think this is especially true for the hobbyest. This is the only way to measure the wear, clean the oil passageways, and do the maintenance that is probably way overdue.

CL5Man, when you remove the spindle, remove it very slowly. There are two spring loaded parts to remove. At the bottom of the headstock rear bearing surface, and front bearing surface (really the bearing surface is just the casting, no babbit or anything, but it works great)there is an oil wick on top of a spring. Mine was worn to the point where it was almost just spring. I just rigged up my own new wicks but I think it is fine. I cleaned the sludge out of all the oilers and in general felt pretty good about the whole process. I was happy to oil the hell out of my cleaned up lathe. Too bad they don't stay cleaned up. I wonder who keeps a clean lathe, and what their favorite tricks are. Because my lathe is in an unheated and often moist garage (rain floods in) I thought I'd make a oiled canvas cover. Does anyone have suggestions? Perhaps I should start a new thread.
Spence

[cl5man]

Finally got the darn thing out. One more question. Are the two ends supposed to press on the shaft or should it slide on when I put all this back together? Thanks for the help.

[John Foster]

The rear screw is to set the depth of engagement of the backgear. It must be removes before you can take the shaft out as it sits in a groove. The front has a spring and brass slug to put tension on the shaft and to hold it in place when engaged. You can probably take the shaft out without getting that one out but you will still need it out for proper operation. The shaft on a 9" comes out the back once the taper pins are out. Do not rotate the shaft and handle as it will bind up on the eccentric. John

[cl5man]

The major reason i'm taking it apart is to make it look decent. Its been sitting outside for the last 27 years and, well its just not up to my standards as far as looks go. I'm glad I did as I've found quite a few things wrong with it. No springs or wipers for the headstock spindle. The back gear cams were so rusted I had to let it soak in motor oil for 3 days before the would rotate in the casting. Even then it took a few good wacks with a rubber mallet. The back gear itself still won't turn on the spindle a full 360'. Another night of socking will hopefully cure that. I think this alone warrants a teardown and cleaning. I don't know about you "DR" but its not rocket science to drive out pins, it's just a pain in the ### when the pins have rusted themselves to the casting. Anyway I'll look at it again tonight and hopefully figure something out.

[DR]

My question is why are you taking it apart?

No offense meant, but it seems to me some people take their machines apart because they feel that has to be done to clean them and end doing damage to the machine in the process.

I try to buy good, used machines for use in my business. The one thing that always sours a deal for me is when the seller tells me they've taken it apart and cleaned and repainted it. Very few amateurs have the knowledge or tools and equipment to properly do this.

DR

[SJorgensen]

After I bought my South Bend model A lathe I took it apart for cleaning, checking, and relubing. I remember that tapered pin. I was able to drive mine out with a drift. The only drawings and parts diagrams that I have seen were pretty poor. There are some drawings at the site: http://www.southbendlathe.com/worksh....htm#Std.%20CG and at http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend9-inch/index.html You may have seen them already. I think if you look it over carefully you'll see how it comes apart and how it goes together. I'm still amazed how well my spindle turns in just a simple oiled cast iron hole. I love my old lathe. If I can find those exploded views I'd be happy to share them with you. I'd like to have some high quality blueprints though if anyone has some.
Spence

[cl5man]

Well, I finally got one of the pins out. I did drill a hole on each side to keep my orientation. Why couldn't I just make some semi-press fit strait pins to install or is there a reason for the taper. Theres also two small bolts, one on each side, on the bottom that I cant seem to get out, rusted and of coure I broke them off. Do these need to be removed before taking the back gear out. Does the back gear shaft press on or should it slide right out through one end. Boy I wish I had some kind of drawing for this thing, I bet it would be pretty obvious how things come apart.

[bpsbtoolman]

If you do not want to loose the orientation of the system I would before you take out the bungled up pin, drill at a new location and taper ream a new hole. Don't install the pin yet.
Now line up the bunged hole straight and with a small end mill carefully mill out the pin. Probably has to be done on a mill, not a drill press
Walt