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DIY bearings in 5hp motor idler RPC

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  • DIY bearings in 5hp motor idler RPC

    I'm beginning my RPC DIY build.
    I bought a $75 5hp 3ph motor that was demonstrated running, but noisy bearings. I saw it run.
    this is to be my idler motor.
    Now I'm going into it to replace the bearings.
    I thought each 'end plate just slides off' each end,,,no??
    I got the full length sandwich bolts out, been rolling and beating this thing around like the proverbial monkey & football.
    Is both ends really 'pressed' onto the shaft?

  • #2
    Most motors I have the bearings are tight on shaft, slide fit in the end bells.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

    Comment


    • #3
      My rpc motor has whiny bearings for many years a little slug of Grease and I have no plans to tear it apart.
      Ed
      Agua Dulce, So.California
      1950 F1 street rod
      1949 F1 stock V8 flathead
      1948 F6 350 chevy/rest stock, no dump bed
      1953 chevy 3100 AD for 85 S10 frame have a 4BT cummins motor, NV4500
      1968 Baha Bug with 2.2 ecotec motor, king coil-overs,P/S

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      • #4
        Hope you scratched a mark between the center housing and the Bell Caps on each end.
        You want to return them to the SAME exact location/orientation when rebolted

        Rich
        Green Bay, WI

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Ringo View Post
          I'm beginning my RPC DIY build.
          I bought a $75 5hp 3ph motor that was demonstrated running, but noisy bearings. I saw it run.
          this is to be my idler motor.
          Now I'm going into it to replace the bearings.
          I thought each 'end plate just slides off' each end,,,no??
          I got the full length sandwich bolts out, been rolling and beating this thing around like the proverbial monkey & football.
          Is both ends really 'pressed' onto the shaft?
          very easy to change these bearings, and get a good brand, they're not super expensive. If this is the standard induction motor, 99.99% it is, the bearings are a press fit on the shaft and slide into the motor ends pretty much by hand. The ends can be a bit stiff to come off the housing, using something like a screw driver and tap around the outside of until comes off. Its not a press fit, but it can be tight. When dissembling, many many light taps can get you to the same place as a wallop but they do no or less damage to things...so if its tight just getting tapping. The bearings get pulled off the shaft (you'll need a puller) and new ones pressed on.

          You can press with an arbor press or heat up the bearings to slip then on, but I've seen more than one electric motor shop tap them on with an appropriate sized pipe. I like a hot plate and digital thermometer then they just drop on, but the tapping of the pipe imo works fine for such an undemanding install. The key to installing bearings is never ever put force through the balls. In other words if the shaft is the press (general rule, but not always, the rotating part is the press, the other is a close sliding fit), only press or tap it on with something contacting the inner race.

          Do get the new low friction seals, I mostly use SKF. They've the low friction attribute of shielded bearings, but keep all the crap out like sealed bearings.
          Last edited by Mcgyver; 07-28-2020, 06:53 AM.
          in Toronto Ontario - where are you?

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          • #6
            If you have the bolts out of both ends try putting a block of wood on the end of the shaft and hitting it with a hammer. Check and see if there are two bolts on the end bell next to the shaft, some motors have a plate behind the bearing take them out. Also watch for a spring behind one of the bearings.

            Jon
            SW Mi

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Rich Carlstedt View Post
              Hope you scratched a mark between the center housing and the Bell Caps on each end.
              You want to return them to the SAME exact location/orientation when rebolted

              Rich
              What does it matter?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Rich Carlstedt View Post
                Hope you scratched a mark between the center housing and the Bell Caps on each end.
                You want to return them to the SAME exact location/orientation when rebolted

                Rich
                Why ? ? ?
                I have re-clocked motor end bells a few times,
                to change mounting orientation or pecker head location.
                If parts like this don't have related features on a common centerline,
                they would never pass QC when manufactured.
                I think you are propagating an old wives tale that was never true
                in the first place.

                --Doozer
                DZER

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                • #9
                  the end bells have grease zerks clocked top side.
                  if there is a bearing retainer on the end bell, it would have to be the end under the fan,
                  and the fan is another queery, there no way to get a puller under the fan, there is a snap ring holding the fan on rear shaft, but too tight clearance to get a puller in
                  This is kinda strange motor, lot of aluminum in it. alum mount base, alum cooling fan, alum cooling fins, appears to be alum center housing, cast iron ends

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                  • #10
                    plastic fan? take the snap ring off and it should pull off by hand.
                    Last edited by Mcgyver; 07-28-2020, 08:58 AM.
                    in Toronto Ontario - where are you?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Doozer View Post

                      Why ? ? ?
                      I have re-clocked motor end bells a few times,
                      to change mounting orientation or pecker head location.
                      If parts like this don't have related features on a common centerline,
                      they would never pass QC when manufactured.
                      I think you are propagating an old wives tale that was never true
                      in the first place.

                      --Doozer
                      Doozer is making sense this time..... the location of the end bell is set by the groove and spigot, the bolts etc are just to hold it together. should work any old way as far as fits.


                      No idea if the wiring will be OK, for a single phase start centrifugal switch or whatever. If the motor is single phase, good chance it has to go together one way only due to wire length etc.
                      1601

                      Keep eye on ball.
                      Hashim Khan

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Rays of sunshine occasionally peek through the clouds.

                        -D
                        DZER

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

                          Doozer is making sense this time..... the location of the end bell is set by the groove and spigot, the bolts etc are just to hold it together. should work any old way as far as fits........

                          I take it that you and Doozer have not rebuilt many motors with that comment ?

                          First, not all motors have a spigot /groove on the bells
                          Second , to make sure Lube points/cups match original orientation !
                          Third , its possible the bells to be rotated counter to each other and still allow the long bolt to be tightened, yet the orientation can move and they can loosen ( Vibration source)

                          Rich
                          Green Bay, WI

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                          • #14
                            How many angels can dance on your head???

                            -D
                            DZER

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                            • #15
                              You can also remove the fan for RPC duty, they never get hot, at least mine never did. It quiets things down a lot. Assuming TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled)

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